1998 Windstar 3.8l cranks, no start.

[tocktick]

Ahhhh, where to start. First i'd like to say hello, and introduce myself to all at AF. I'm Chuck, live in Indiana, and been a long time fan of this site. I'm beyond stumped on my sisters van and hoping someone here has had the same issue, and a solution.
1998 Windstar 3.8l with 130,000 miles. Against my advice, last week she gave her son the keys to jump his car that hasn't ran in a year. The next morning she calls me and says it won't start. This van has had no mechanical issues whatsoever except for routine maintenance. I replaced the fuel pump in July of this year at 120,000. I so do not want to get back under this thing and do it again.
I have no fuel pressure at the relief valve and the fuel pump is not coming on when attempting to start.
The engine cranks with no attempt to start except on my third day of working on it, put the key in to roll down the windows and cranked it over and it started. Shut it off and can't get it to start since.
The battery is new and plugs. Here is a rundown on everything I have checked/tested, and tests good.
Fuses, relays, coil pack, crank sensor, inertia switch, spark at plugs.
If there were any codes set they are gone due to my nephew taking the battery out. (smart kid) I had read that the sending unit can short out if the key is left in the forward position and not running.
Any help or advice would be so appreciated. Thanks so much.

[wiswind]

It sounds like you are onto something with the "no fuel pressure".
The fuel pump should pump the fuel line up to pressure as soon as you turn the key to the "run" position.
Before we jump to the fuel pump....let's make sure that you are getting power TO it.
Check fuses, relays and the interrupt switch that is located in the back.....in the jack compartment. The interrupt relay that I am talking about is the one that opens up if you have an accident.....make sure that it is not tripped or corrosion on the contacts.
You should read a value near zero ohms if you measure across the interrupt switch.

Also, if the battery is slightly low, or you have corrosion on a connection....it can cause there to not be enough voltage to work the relay(s) required to get power to the fuel pump.
In other words, you could have PLENTY of voltage and power to crank the engine, but not enough voltage to activate a relay.

If you verify power to the fuel pump.....and it is not running, then.....well, let's hope one does not have to go through that more than once.
Fuel pumps can become intermittent....some have gotten them to run by bumping the fuel tank.....though, if that is the case....you will want to change it as it is likely to go out at a very inconvenient time for you.

[tocktick]

Thanks wiswind for your quick reply.The interrupt, or inertia switch that shuts the fuel pump down, tests good. On the '98 it is located in the drivers side kick panel. I'm getting power from the shut off switch to the connection at the fuel pump also, but from all I've read, that just connects to the sending unit and not the pump. I would have to actually have to drop the tank to test that. One question I have is; could a bad MAF, IAC sensor or TPS, or the like cause a no start like this?
Working on this has been a mind challenge for sure. Ford has taken one 3.8 and made 4 different varieties of it in less than 5 years.

[wiswind]

I had a '96, and they moved things around over the years.
I just keep thinking that every time I turned the key past the RUN position, I could hear the fuel pump activate.....before I got to the START position.
I could be wrong, but I don't think that those things would stop the fuel pump from pumping the system up to pressure.

[tomj76]

As has been already stated, based on the information given (a) no fuel pressure (b) no sound of the fuel pump running at key on, this problem is either of two problems (1) no power to the fuel pump or (2) bad fuel pump.

Sometimes you can get a fuel pump that is not working (but has good power applied) to run by hitting the bottom of the fuel tank while turning on the key, or bypassing the relay with jumper wires and hitting the bottom of the fuel tank.

If there is no power, then you've got a problem in the circuit (a) bad fuse, (b) bad wiring, (c) bad connectors, (d) bad relay, (e) no PCM signal to actuate the fuel pump relay.