95 Max - Engine Shudder, Exh Sputter, & Stall Symptom while idling @ stop

[jattsta]

i have a similar problem as well. from the research ive done, it could be many problems: o2 sensor, knock sensor, maf sensor, fuel injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires. ive found that all mechanics really do is go down the checklist, and replace things until it stops doing what its doing, and charge hundreds and hundreds of dollars for it. so basically im going to try to do that myself. i figure even if i hvae to replace 3 parts before it fixes it, itll still be cheaper than going to a mechanic.

so far ive replaced spark plugs (needed to be done anyways) and 1 o2 sensor. im going to replace the other upstream o2 sensor next, and if that doesnt work, ill try the knock sensor.

the knock sensor checks to see if there are unusual vibrations in the engine, and adjusts the combustion timing accordingly to save the engine from combusting too soon (which is very bad!). if the knock sensor goes bad, it goes into limp mode, so basically it retards the timing so that it combusts late (early will cause damage, late wont) as a precaution, which causes the engine to run like s*it.

ill let you know when i do something that fixes the prob.

[Knight4]

Thanks for the input. It seems like these are such common symptoms with the Nissan engines, you would think that someone would know THE answer. Please let us know how your changes work for you.

I would add one more item to your potential problems list, and that would be the fuel pump. Otherwise, you have come up with pretty much the same list that I have...

I haven't had the money to-date to do much of anything, but have had the same thoughts...(i.e. that I could replace parts cheaper than a mechanic and save the $85/hr diagnostic time). Recently got a copy of the FSM to help with troubleshooting and to know what the operational specs are for various sensors, etc., but haven't had a lot of time to spend with this either.

Now I've got some money, hope to find some time and to be able to report back as well. I figured to start with the knock sensor and MAF sensor, myself.

Did you find a reasonable source for parts, other than the dealer, on those sensors?

[jerseyan08618]

This is all kind of funny to me becuse i also own an maxima besides my civic. I am also having the same problems that you all are talking about EXEPT once the car starts sputtering the check engine light comes on and the exhaust blows large amounts of white smoke in perfect donuts.
I attend lincoln tech and have had the car analyzed twice and no trouble codes stoer in the ecu. ive had it at two nissan dealers and no help, whatever they fix is only a temporary fix. the problem comes back and ive also had a technitian from nissan motor corp. come out and look at it. ive boiled everything down to two things.

1. the ecu has an ignition glitch that isnt being detected which keeps blowing coil's

2. nissan coil packs are shit and their diagnostic team sucks.

I love nissan. im in the market for a 91 240sx but this maxima is getting traded for a scion tc.
good luck finding the problem if i find out anything else ill post it.

[OrigJunior]

To Anyone,

Brought my baby 95 Max to the shop who prev changed the EGR Valve, Solenoid, etc. They hooked it up to the diagnostics machine, chocked the wheels and let car idle while in gear, but nothing. Yup, the mechanics could not "reproduce" this intermittent problem with engine.

I give up. Im at wits end on this. By the way, I had mentioned sometime ago that the headcover gaskets were replaced before this problem with the engine began. To do this, the mechanics had to pull off the intake manifold and such located above the head covers.

Now, I got a question. If the head cover or the intake manifold just by chance had a mounting nut loose by some reason, causing a small leak to begin within the gasket area of the loose nut, could that be creating a problem?

If so, how can I go about ruling this out or finding out if this could be the problem? Someone suggested I spray carb cleaner around the intake manifold mounting area and head cover area while the car was in idle to see if it would make the engine idle roughly. Is this a safe way of seeing if there was a leak in these areas?

Before I undertake another avenue of seek and fix, does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks all

[rule da road]

I know ur frustrated, don't give up. Did u ever get the air flow meter checked out/replaced? This is NOT the mass air flow sensor, around the same price but it is chip like.

[OrigJunior]

All,

Just got the car back from the same shop who replaced my EGR Valve/Selonoid. I had to take it in to replace the antennae unit which went out on me. The part alone was $245.00 and labor @ $100.00 easy.... yikes, the mechanic told me that once most cars reach about 10 years that I can expect more to happen and more $ to be spent getting it fixed. Bummer, its starting to impact the funds if you know what I mean.

Perhaps I may as well consider it on its last leg and let it go before something major goes out. Any thoughts on how I can lengthen the longevity of my baby Max, currently with 127k miles? She doesn't leak oil nor trans fluid yet. I've resorted to annually flushing radiator system annually since reaching 70k miles. I'm using high mileage oil (3 qts) with 1 qt Lucas Oil Stabilizer.
Already replaced my EIC Valve, Starter, Power Steering Unit, Brakes, all within the last 3 years.

Perhaps I need to try out those new quad cab pickups, probably Nissan Frontier or Toy Tacoma. But god, the payments I'll have to endure, not to mention the laxed mileage I'll be getting. Currently, with both highway and city driving, my baby 95 Max averages 22 miles per gallon with premium fuel. Not bad if I say so myself.

[OrigJunior]

Folks,

I forgot to ask some questions regarding the MAF Sensor(Meter)? HOw can I non mechanically tooled owner such as myself go about getting the MAF Sensor checked out? Does it require shop exclusive tools/monitors to get its function checked out? For replacement, do I need to turn in the old bad one before getting it replaced with a new one?

I'd like to keep from going to the dealer but since having spent over $1000 in the past 3 months on various issues on top of the fact that I need to get new tires to replace the current ones which are getting close to bald (like muh head), anyone have any suggestions for me to keep it for another year or so?

Thanks one and all for your help once again. For Knight4, your inputs have been very helpful, unfortunately, I haven't the personal resources nor mechanical background to do any of what you suggested on my own. I do appreciate your assistance along with everyone elses.

[scrafferty]

Did replacing the MAF Sensor fix your problem. I have been having the same problem for months and went through the same steps as ya'll and the problem still exists.

[James218]

I don't know if this post fits in here, but I'm having very simular problems with the stalling and what not. For me it depends on the amount of gas is in my tank. If my gas tank is at one quarter of a tank it will stall when I come to a stop. That also depends on how fast I stop. (This has only happend once,)but when i get under a quarter of tank my car stalls while moving down the road. If I slam on my brakes even when i have a full tank of gas it has a problem staying running. It almost seems as if there are no baffels in my gas tank, but that is implausible. Probably a sensor, damn it! or maybe the airflow meter from what I've read so far in this forum. Well does my symptoms match. If so I'm all ears.

[Stutsk24]

Originally Posted by OrigJunior

Folks,

With my 95 Max (125k miles odometer) warmed up after driving a few miles I experience the following intermittent problem.

When stopped at a stop light with brakes depressed and engine idle @ 650 rpm, engine will suddenly shudder, exhaust will sputter, and the idle will fluctuate up and down between 650 down to 450 rpm as if it wants to stall a couple of seconds and then resume normal idle. The same thing happens intermittently when stopping after driving into a parking stall or when placing car in reverse while attempting to correct parking into stall.

Car will otherwise accelerate normal and driving is unaffected. Itll only happen intermittently when idle returns to 650 rpm at a stop.

Plugs have been changed last year. I don't know what else to do but take it into the Dealer's Service. Anyone have any helpful ideas? Help!!

Hi, my name is Adam and a couple of things come to mind when I read your description of problems with you maxima. You said that it started to happen once the car was warm correct? Well, I did go to school for auto mechanics and I know that some ignition coils can short out once they are hot, they will be fine when at room temp and then pose a problem once hot, which could cause this problem at idle. Maybe you just don't notice the engine missing off of idle at higher engine speeds.

The second and more likely thing that immediately come to mind in this instance is your EGR valve. If your EGR is open at all, or stuck open at idle it would only cause a problem at idle, but as soon as you touch the gas the engine would run normally and this is because it is normal to have some EGR valve open off of idle at higher engine speeds.

Lastly and stay with me here on this one, I don't know if your mechanic has has the capability or not, but running a car on a propane tank while the idle problem is happening can prove whether or not the problem is fuel related or not. What they do is hook up a propane tank to the intake on the engine and start adding propane to the incoming engine air, if the car smooths out and runs fine then they know that the car is not getting enought fuel from the injectors because once the propane is introduced then the problem goes away, problem located! Please let me know if any of this has helped you out at all.

[Nahkapohjola]

hmm. thread date lidl bit ... Old 12-20-2004, 03:09 AM