Model Photography - A guide to essential do's & dont's

[Helico]

Sean,

Depth of field is determined by aperture (F). The higher the F, the smaller the aperture, and the greater the depth of field. However, small aperture means less light entering the sensor. To compensate this, you need to use slow shutter speed and hence a tripod for stability. If you want a blurry background, open up aperture.

Some compact cameras do not allow adjustment of aperture. To get around this, change zoom. Telephoto zoom mechanically narrows the aperture.

Regarding lighting using household lights, you can cover the bulb with a sheet of paper or tissue to "soften" the light. Same trick can also be used on camera flash, especially when flashing directly to people's faces.

[360spider]

Wide angle lens is one of your problems. You need a good zoom lens.

[CFarias]

Also, look to see if you have a setting that allows you to "bracket" your shots. This option will take a picture at your current settings, then almost simultaneously take one a little brighter and one a little darker. This gives you three pictures of the same thing, but at three different exposure levels in the hopes that one of them will be at exactly the right light level you wanted.

When adjusting your camera setting try to only adjust one setting at a time so that you can see how that change affects your pictures. If you change more than one thing at a time it can be hard to figure out quickly what setting is causing you grief. Make notes of all your settings as you take the picture and once you get the right combination of settings, see if your camera can save them, and do so.

Also, expect that the setting for indoor photography may be very different from the settings for outdoor photography and if you are making notes for outdoor pictures write down the time of day and weather conditions (sunny, partly cloudy, etc) too.

[Monkfish]

Hey Sean,

Did you read the photography article in the latest Racecraft Mag? Go and have a read and start off with the basics, and get them sorted out first.

http://www.racecraftmag.co.uk/racecraft-issue-three/

If you get the basics right - you can take a fine looking image with a phone camera. No need for all the "kit". The article might give you some good ideas, or help you to address simple issues you are having.

The second installment will be in the next issue of the mag and will look at using compact camera with more facility.

Let me know what you think!

[SeanyG]

Originally Posted by Monkfish

Hey Sean,

Did you read the photography article in the latest Racecraft Mag? Go and have a read and start off with the basics, and get them sorted out first.

http://www.racecraftmag.co.uk/racecraft-issue-three/

If you get the basics right - you can take a fine looking image with a phone camera. No need for all the "kit". The article might give you some good ideas, or help you to address simple issues you are having.

The second installment will be in the next issue of the mag and will look at using compact camera with more facility.

Let me know what you think!

Very nicely done and helpful too, especially the composition aspect and use of backgrounds too. Looking forward to reading more definately.

On a side note, I got it wrong about my smal lens, (you can tell how much of a pro I am eh!!!) It is actually a Telephone/Macro Lens (at least thats what it says on the front of it.
I'm a bit confused by the idea of using a large zoom lens though, I though they were only for shooting things at a distance etc.

[SeanyG]

Originally Posted by CFarias

Also, look to see if you have a setting that allows you to "bracket" your shots. This option will take a picture at your current settings, then almost simultaneously take one a little brighter and one a little darker. This gives you three pictures of the same thing, but at three different exposure levels in the hopes that one of them will be at exactly the right light level you wanted.

When adjusting your camera setting try to only adjust one setting at a time so that you can see how that change affects your pictures. If you change more than one thing at a time it can be hard to figure out quickly what setting is causing you grief. Make notes of all your settings as you take the picture and once you get the right combination of settings, see if your camera can save them, and do so.

Also, expect that the setting for indoor photography may be very different from the settings for outdoor photography and if you are making notes for outdoor pictures write down the time of day and weather conditions (sunny, partly cloudy, etc) too.

Very, very interesting and helpful thankyou. I aim to have a good photo session soon and will definately follow the great advice on the thread thus far, I dont have any 'bracket' option on the camera so will have to as you say do some major and trial and error work, writing down the settings each time.

[Monkfish]

Hey Sean,

Your more than welcome - I'm glad you like the article. It just covers the basics, but as i say, it should help give you some ideas and a bit more understanding to help with your photos.

On a side note, I got it wrong about my small lens, (you can tell how much of a pro I am eh!!!) It is actually a Telephone/Macro Lens (at least that's what it says on the front of it.
I'm a bit confused by the idea of using a large zoom lens though, I though they were only for shooting things at a distance etc.

Yes a zoom or telephoto lens can be used for close up photography...essentially, that is exactly what it's doing, magnifying things. Your camera most probably has a multifunction lens on it, engineered to offer both capabilities, but this will effect the quality if compared to a more costly set up.

But as with any subject, the trick is to get your subject under a good light source.

If you are close to a subject, getting too close with the camera ( like you will have to in MACRO mode) may block out light that will help to make the image clearer.

Using a zoom lens, you can stand back from a subject, allowing plenty of light to get to it, and then zoom in to the area you are trying to photograph. This technique can also be used to achieve better depth in your shots.

You might find that you need to use a tripod to stop camera shake, especially if you shooting in lower light situations.

Don't worry to much about bracketing. This is getting quite technical, and shouldn't be needed if you are working the camera correctly and your lighting is good.

Besides, if you can use photoshop or some other photo editing software you can also make small exposure adjustments of any images that are underexposed (too dark).

There will be a guide to all the technicalities in the mag in the future..but that is a few issues away yet

Hope that helps.
Rich