1988 Ford Ranger No spark

[Shrunken_Head]

I've got a 88 Ford Ranger with the 2.9 V6 and it has no spark. I've tested cap, rotor, wires, plugs. All good with no moisture in the cap. Next checked the coil, coil is good. All fusible links in the engine compartment are good. So I replaced the ignition module (TVI-IV). Still no spark. I am getting power to the coil, and the negative wire from the coil to the ignition module is good. The only time the coil shows any spark is when you turn the key back after cranking it. It will get one spark as you are releasing the key. Any ideas? I am starting to think the whole distributor may be bad, or the EEC is bad in this car. Any helpo would be great.

[DonSor]

Any indication from the Check Engine Light at all? Or does it have one? Sounds like the secondary in your coil is bad.

[Shrunken_Head]

yeah it has the OBD I system. No codes present. The car was brought to my shop after it had been sitting for at least 6 months. Battery was dead to the point of no return. So, if there were any codes then, they were erased when the battery was changed. I tested the coil; terminal resistance between neg and pos. was in spec. The resistance between neg. terminal and coil to cap wire was in spec. I even went to the point of putting a new coil I had in stock in it just to see. Still no spark. I pulled the distributor back out again today and there is a little moisture that was unoticed in the bottom but nothing severe. What worries me is the slight rust on the internal components. I have seen much worse and seen cars still run. Maybe this one is just picky.

[butch h]

Does it turn over easy? When you have the spark at key release,it can mean excessive starter draw which doesn't allow enough power to the coil.

[Shrunken_Head]

crank spins freely. No noticable problems when the starter engages. I'll do a draw test on the starter and see what happens. I'm kinda at a loss for this thing. I usually work on classics but this guy is a good customer of ours since we restored a 68 Fury convertible for him. I appreciate your suggestions. If i find anything tomarrow I'll let you know. until then keep the ideas comming.

[DonSor]

I don't think you have a starter problem. Looks like you have no ignition at all and/or you are not getting fuel at the rail.

[corning_d3]

Have you checked out the starter solenoid. I believe it and the coil are tied together somehow.. Here's a pic to help diagnose...

http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/l...3d800f87a7.gif

[Shrunken_Head]

okay......So here is what we did today on it. New distributor, still no spark. Rotor turns while cranking, no broken gears. Getting power to coil, getting power to distributor. Put in another module (sometimes you get a bad one), still no spark. Pulled EEC, no burnt cicuits, no bent pins, cleaned and reinstalled ground wire to EEC. Starter draw is not excessive. I am starting to go out of my mind. Still getting the one spark when you shut her down.

[butch h]

If you use the old ignition system (points & condenser) as a point of reference, the opening of the points is the trigger that causes the coil to send the voltage surge (spark) to the sparkplug(s) via the distributer cap.If all else is checked out as good,then it would seem the problem is in the stator assembly or the module. You did use dielectric grease on the module/distributer interface?

[DonSor]

Using the schematic diagram, most can be checked out (voltage, resistance, continuity, etc.) except the ignition module. Unlike the old distributor in which the opening of the contacts result in the collapsing field of the primary, this newer concept has a coil which induces the signal for the ignition module to interrupt the primary in the coil. That is not happening. I know that the module has been replaced a couple of times but pointer seem to be going in that direction again, perhaps not the module itself but the wiring, connections, etc,

[Shrunken_Head]

as for the dielectric grease on the terminal and modulde back plate, yes it was put on it. DonSor, that was what we figured on it too, hence the distributor change. We figured all new components would be bullet proof. It is just crazy, according too all wire tests I have done they all have continuity. As for the voltage of each wire I have not checked the voltage of all the hot wires....yet. I had a Ford tech buddy of mine stop by today and he had come to the same conclusion as I did that the ignition module was bad. Can anyone think of any other components that might be in this system? I am at a total loss at this point but I hate to send one home that has beaten me.

[butch h]

If this vehicle came to you not running,& all else seems to check out,another possibility is a faulty ignition switch.

[Shrunken_Head]

Okay here was this mornings dedicated hour and a half. I cut open the tape and traced the wires. All the wires (three) to the coil, tach/coil, and to ignition. All wires have good continuity and no shorts or breaks. I have power to the coil, to the ignition module from pos. side of coil, and green (tach) wire from coil to ignition module. There are three wires that go to the EEC and to the ground in the passenger side kick panel. I have two questions. Should the red wires from the ignition (they go from three to one wire, two wires from dash, one wire from coil then join and go to module) have power when the key is in the run position but not cranking the engine? And the other is there are two ground wires attached to the metal behind the passenger side kick panel. The black wire is sheathed and goes straight to the ignition module. That wire is good. There is also another ground wire attached to the same contact. It is not sheathed, just bare wire and runs right along with the black ground wire. Problem is this wire is broken. Does anyone know where this wire connects? I have not found another bare wire in the area of the distributor, let alone a broken one.

[butch h]

Red/lt. blue start only,red/lt. green start & run bare wire unknown.

[Shrunken_Head]

Just put a new ignition switch in her, no change. All wires have good continuity. Has new: distributor, ignition module, coil, ignition switch. The only other component I haven't changed (do not have in stock and more expensive) is the EEC.