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Old 03-23-2005, 12:47 AM   #1
nisco
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Post Parts break down for the Tiburon

Since i put together a list of websitesfor tib owners, and brought over a list of body kits, I decided to make a list of parts for the tib. I.e. cai, exhaust, bbtb, porting and polishing, engine builds, turbos, etc etc etc. I thought this would be a good way to organize everything, and would be easier for some of the members here and future members to come.

So with that said, lemme break it down for you guys. Each post of mine will be about a different aftermarket, or stock part for the tib, Ill try and add in what it does (how it works), the gains (dyno sheets if available), the companies that make these specific parts, and pictures. Like: 1 post will be all about CAIs and SRIs, annother will be about EXHAUSTs, see what im gettin at.

So with all this info here, when someone has a question about something specific, and needs further help, jus reference to the info here and ask away (either here) or in a thread you started.

***and to keep this organized, please refrain from posting till i have everything posted (ill let you know when i got everything in), and ill be constantly updating this whole thread, because it may take a few days to finish***

this is what happens when i cant sleep haha

ohh psssst... maybe this can get stickied?! or importanted, or something along those lines haha
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:49 AM   #2
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Exclamation Cold Air Intakes vs Short Ram Intakes

I know that we all see the same questions over and over concerning CAI's and SRI's. So I will do my best to explain the difference (in laymans terms) between a CAI and an SRI, as well as the difference between different brand CAI's. This is going to be a VERY simplistic explanation, so veterans steer clear...

We are dealing with internal combustion engines. This means that air is mixed with fuel, ignited, causing combustion (duh). There are a few factors that play into how well (or poorly) that combustion is executed. Number one, the more air the engine has access to in order to mix with fuel, the more energy can be produced. This is also the basic logic behind turbo- and superchargers, but I'll leave that to the REAL tuners on this board (i.e. - not me). But back to the subject. An engine needs oxygen to combust with fuel, which creates the power to turn the wheels. The two main factors at play here are:

1) Volume of air (O2). More air to combust, more power.

2) Temperature of air (O2) Colder air is DENSER (i.e. - more O2 (oxygen) per cubic inch of air) than HOT air, and therefore the engine has even MORE oxygen to combust.


MOST stock intake systems are constructed of a thick plastic, have many bends and turns, use HIGHLY restrictive filters, and pull air from inside the HOT engine bay. Look at your stock Tiburon intake...HORRIBLE. But, Hyundai did this is for two reasons:

1) To keep the engine quieter, as most drivers (not tuners like us ) prefer a quiet ride. CAI's and SRI's make MUCH more noise than stock, as the air is being taken in MUCH faster, and is resonating off of METAL piping. Loud.

2) To keep the engine flood safe (if the vehicle is submerged, it will continue to run). CAI's suck from near the curb. If you run into a deep puddle, your engine will hydrolock and sieze. Not good. Some may talk of "bypass valves", but I really question thier integrity (experiments have shown that, in some circumstances, water can reach the engine bay anyway.)

But these minor pluses come at the expense of a MAJOR minus: POWER. In a perfect situation, our engines would have unlimited access to a LARGE volume of COLD air. This is impossible, but alternative intake systems offer better solutions....

SO...

An SRI (Short Ram Intake) is simply a short piece of metal (or plastic) that comes off the Throttle Body (that piece with the little flap that opens and shuts when you accelerate, i.e. - the "butterfly") and sucks air directly into the intake manifold. This is a BIG improvement over the stock system, as it...

1) eliminates all of the bends and turns of the stock intake, allowing for a greater, unrestricted VOLUME of air (O2) to enter the intake manifold.

2) is also relatively inexpensive and EASY to install. $80 and you're done in most circumstances.


It looks like this:



NOW....

A CAI (Cold Air Intake) is based on the same premise, but takes it one step further. A CAI is a LONGER piece (or more than one piece) of stainless steel piping that extends from the Intake Manifold (IM) all the way down to a point FAR AWAY from the heat producing engine. This is usually a spot near the curb, infront of the wheels. When your car is traveling at 60 MPH, and the outside temperature is 70 degrees, the temperature of the air hitting your engine will be SIGNIFICANTLY colder than the air inside your HOT engine bay (where your stock intake used to pull air from).

It looks like this:



See how the pipe "disappears" near a spot infront of the front wheel??? That's where it's pulling its air from; near the street, infront of the wheel, where the air is RUSHING past the air filter.

Pro's and Con's to SRI and CAI...

EITHER system will be an improvement over stock. It all depends on what you're looking for, and what your budget is. A good SRI will run about $80. You will see about 1/3 of the horsepower gains of a CAI, but that 1/3 will be available to you LOW in the RPM band (around 3K RPM). This is because the air doesn't have to travel very far to reach the intake manifold. When you mash the gas pedal, you will see more power. But this power is COMPROMISED as the engine heats up, because the hot air that the SRI is pulling will be progressively LESS DENSE, because the air around the engine will be hotter the longer the engine runs. This is not good for continuous power.

A CAI is more expensive, around $220, depending on brand. This will yield MUCH more horsepower than an SRI, because the engine is getting COLDER (read DENSER) air and MORE of it). But the air has to travel a farther distance and takes longer to reach the engine. This power is available to you at 5K to 6K RPM). If you are racing, you should be spending most of your race time in the high RPM's anyway. This is why you want a CAI.

DOWN TO THE NITTY GRITTY.

All CAI's are basically the SAME. It is a STAINLESS STEEL pipe with SILICON or RUBBER connectors, that connects your intake manifold to a position infront of your front driver side wheel, where it pulls the air that the engine needs to make power.

1) They all produce about the same horsepower gain (~12-15 WHP, depending on your car and the ambient temperature). Some companies claim more HP than others; this is BUNK. Different test cars, different dynos, different claims, different air temperature conditions. ONE CAI IS NOT SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER THAN THE OTHER.

2) They make slightly different noises when you open the throttle, depending on how the pipe is bent. On each different CAI, the air resonates off the metal piping slightly differently, producing a different sound. But the physics are the same.


So what's the difference??? SOUND AND STYLE. Some like red pipes, some like chrome, some like blue. You may pay more for one color over the other. INJEN makes a different sound than AEM, which makes a different sound than COMPANY X. You pick what you like; you may think it's worth paying extra for one sound over another. Someone else may not think so. If you are going for a "show" engine bay, you may want the fancy powder-coated piping. There are some AWESOME looking intakes out there, and there are some very plain chrome looking ones. They both achieve the same goal.

I hope this helps clear up the SRI vs. CAI issue, as well as the "is Brand X CAI better than Brand Y"...any other questions, feel free to ask em...that's why the forums here!
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:55 AM   #3
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Exclamation Exhaust

First and foremost, please realize ALL exhaust systems for the tib yield almost the SAME results, give or take a few WHP.

There are many exhausts available for the tib as follows:

Apexi - Wating on pic and review.
Ark Dual - Most people find this exhaust to be a nice medium, nice looks and the sound is noticably quiet compared to other exhausts.
2.5" Stainless piping

Ark Single w/ or w/o Titanium muffler - Single exhaust will get you the best gains, but they are minimal. The sound is quiet but really opens up when you add headers.
2.5" Stainless piping

Injen SES Cat Back exhaust -

DC Sports -

EvoFusion - A well designed exhaust but too loud for some people's taste.
2.5" Stainless piping

Greddy -
Injen - Another well designed exhaust, sound is aggressive but not too loud for most.
2.5" piping

Kore - Waiting on review.

Kore Single - Waiting on pic and review.
MBRP - Waiting on pic and review.
Mussa - Aggressive sound and looks, although not too loud either.
2.5" Stainless piping

Mussa Single - Waiting for review.
Sharkracing - Same as the EvoFusion exhaust.
Sharkracing Single - Waiting for review.

Borla -
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:56 AM   #4
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Exclamation BBTB (Big Bore Throttle Body)

info coming
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:57 AM   #5
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Headers

Headers:
OBX
HotShot
SSAutochrome (same as nxtgen)
Evofusion
Key motor sports



DC sport
Ripp mods

V6 DIY Header install this is a great DIY, the V6 headers are a HUGE pain in the ass to get off, unlike the i4 headers.... theyre easier... much much MUCH easier

I4 DIY Header Install this is a very easy and straight foward install, this was done on a 3rd gen Beta II.
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:59 AM   #6
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Lightbulb Superchargers

Alpine Develpoments 2.7L Aqua-cooled supercharger:

The Alpine s/c (super charger) is an aqua cooled supercharger kit, using the Eaton M63 3rd gen. "root type" blower.

(what comes with the kit)

liminary dyno runs on our new liquid-to-air intercooled supercharger kit for the 2.7L V-6 adds 47.7HP & 40ft/lbs of torque at just a little over 4lbs/psi of boost (see dyno chart below). The kit comes complete with everything needed (including the water reservoir, electric pump, cooler and plumbing for the liquid-to-air intercooler), to install yourself, and comes pre-assembled as much as possible.
(dyno)

Alpine offers their s/c in 3 stages:
stage 0- (same as stage 1, minus the intercooler)
stage 1- (pictured above)
stage 2- (details coming)

What nxtgenmotorsports.com does is further tunes the alpine s/c to make some monster numbers (and also makes them look pretty)!


287WHP/277TQ Alpine Supercharged With NGM Stage III Upgrade (15lbs Boost Stock Bottom End) (Automatic)


Alpine S/C w/ NGM Stage 2 upgrade.....282 WHP +232 lbs-ft/torque (MTX)


Alpine S/C w/ NGM Stage 2 Upgrade.......267 WHP + 226 lbs-ft/torque (MTX)


e S/C w/ NGM Stage 2 Upgrade.......260 WHP + 230 lbs-ft/torque (MTX) (full show trim)


Alpine S/C w/ NGM Stage 2 Upgrade......248 WHP + 250 lbs-ft/torque (ATX)



updates coming
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Old 03-23-2005, 01:32 AM   #7
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Exclamation Superchargers (Ripp SDS)

Ripp Mods SDS

SDS-Stage 1:
RIPP SDS
Vortech V5 -G-Trim VSQ (Quiet gear drive and polished)
RIPP 04 Blow Off Valve
RIPP Aluminum piping
RIPP Battery relocation system
RIPP No weld oil return
RIPP 310cc injectors
RIPP fuel pressure regulator
HKS AFR (Fuzzy Logic fuel controller) (could be SFAC-2 now)
5 Ply silicone hoses
Clamps
Hard ware
Oil feed fitting
Oil feed/return lines
Fully illustrated Instruction
One year limited warranty

Options:
RIPP Boost cooler
RIPP Polyurethane front mount

The OFFICIAL dyno sheets Ripp put out: (stage 1)




Dyno Vid:
http://twoelite.com/ripp/ripps3dyno.wmv






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Old 03-23-2005, 01:34 AM   #8
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Lightbulb Turbochargers

GUDE
Turbo Kits:
Works for MAP based 2.0l Beta II engines.
Includes:
- Chromed Turbo 4-1 Header
- TD04h Turbo (efficient through18psi)
- Intercooler
- J&S Spark Management System (included at the time)
- Chromed & Mandrel Bent Piping
- Modified Hyundai Injectors
- All Clamps and Fittings Necessary for Install
Options:
- Blow Off Valve:
- T3/T4 Turbo:
- Straight Pipe: ~ This will replace the second cat, and is for off road use only, GUDE accepts no liability for violations of local and state emission laws.
Applications and Info:
Works for 5-speed Tiburon’s and Elantra’s with MAP based engines. As far as an automatic goes, the automatic tranny should be able to hold the 200 HP at 6.5psi without any problems, although, the figures may be lower due to higher percentage of drivetrain loss. If you experience problems though, turn down the boost.
The purchase of an AFC is recommended due to the kit wanting to run rich at altitude, but at sea level it performs awesome. Please be open to ask questions, I will contact him and ask any questions that I don't know the answer to. You may see a dramatic increase in performance and efficiency with the use of a fuel tuner.
Head Kits (Turbo and NA) for I4:
Includes:
- Bored Throttle Body w/ Oversized Butterfly
- Ported Intake Manifold
- Ported & Polished Head
- Racing Valve Grind
- Cam Grinding (Turbo or NA)
- High Compression Radius Chamber (Low Compression for Turbo Application)






ALPINE
TD04 15T Mitsubishi Turbo
· Cast iron exhaust manifold
· Air to air intercooler including mounting brackets
· Pre-programmed piggyback ECU, including wiring harness
· Cast aluminium throttle body elbow, including 5th injector
· Decompression plate (lowers compression to 8:1)
· All necessary plumbing and hardware to complete installation
(you need to buy 2 head gaskets along with this kit)
*edit for smaller pic*
Stage 0- non intercooled
Stage 1- intercooled
more coming...
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Old 03-23-2005, 01:35 AM   #9
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Thumbs up V6 Turbo Set Ups

V6 TURBO set ups

Aixs Twin Turbo kit

Non sequential twin turbo size is equivalent to Garrett T025.
600cc APEXI injectors
AXIS fule pressure regulator
AXIS aluminum intake pipes
AXIS stainless steel exhaust manifold
AXIS stainless down pipe
AXIS metal gasket
AXIS custom intercooler
AXIS custom aluminum piping kit, silicone connectors
AXIS custom turbine elbow
AXIS custom radiator overflow reservoir tank
No internals change require
380hp REAL ECU
1.3 bar ~ 1.5 bar max boost producing 380hp.




earlier production pics:

AXIS TT Kit Link <== that is the Real-enginering.com picture thread.
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:41 PM   #10
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porting/ polishing and engine builds

... info coming..........
jus some pics till i throw up some more info

full engine build

long block

short block

rotating assembly



heres a purdy polished/ powdercoated engine bay to hold you over (one of my favorites)

ported/ polished upper intake manifold
ported/ polished lower intake manifold
ported/ polished bbtb
polished valve covers
polished fuel rails
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:42 PM   #11
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Re: Parts break down for the Tiburon

space for rent........
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:43 PM   #12
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Re: Parts break down for the Tiburon

do i have any requests, or suggestions or whatever.. anything i miss?
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Old 03-23-2005, 01:09 PM   #13
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you oculd give out info on clutches seems like thats a big thing here right now i'd say about satge 1, 2,, and 3 maybe 4 i dont really ythink anyone here will need stage 4 or 5 but heck i dont know, suspension stuff coil overs and what not to get like the wanna be coil overs cant think of what they are called right now...do the much over looked brakes everyone wants to add massive amounts of power but they dont think about upgradring the brakes..... thats all i cant think of right now if you want some help on getting info let me know i get pretty bored at night sometimes
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Old 03-23-2005, 02:21 PM   #14
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Re: Re: Parts break down for the Tiburon

Only thing i might suggest, is any more info on specific upgrades...meaning alpine stages and estimates on whp. I'm assuming ripp will be on there too, turbos kits for i-4. also like tdawg said clutches seems to be a big complaint on the forums....i mean it just depends how in depth you wanna go. And also any comments on all these equipment(i know the exhaust has some) and that type of stuff will help with people, unless you wanna search all day on nt.com.
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Old 03-23-2005, 03:07 PM   #15
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Re: Parts break down for the Tiburon

ima do what i can to get each stage's numbers up there (for the alpine, and ngm kits).. and the turbo kits out etc etc etc
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