2000 ford explore Misfire with NO CHECK LIGHT?

[The_last_regulator]

Hi all.
Hope everyone is doing good.
Sorry if my spelling is a lil bad.

I got this truck with 80k on it-I payed 500$cash for it.4 yrs ago and ant ever had one lil problem out of it.

Ok heres the deal.
Iv got a 2000 ford explore 4.0 sohc with around 145k on it as of now.

1st about 2 mouths ago I started having problems after driving along time<with it 109 outside>-The truck would start trying to turn off-as if it had ran out of gas-...
If i tryed punching it she would try to die...
If it idled for a few mins and i tryed to rev it WOULD REV BUT A SPUDDER REV.
Sooo Dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it I also changed the fuel filter...after doing this the problem stopped....
<The filter had some redish dirt looking stuff poor out of it.>

This morning when i went out everything was fine <I DROVE AROUND FOR AT LEAST A HOUR>
Well after I got gas I noticed that my truck was idling funny almost like a plug wire fell off or such...
I got on the high way and had no problem -at this point as far as i could tell the problem was only when idling-
When i got home i checked a few things and found nothing...
Soo i decided to go in for a bit and let the truck kool off.....well when i went outside about 5hrs later and started the truck I HAD A BAD MISFIRE -THIS HAS NEVER HAPPENED BEFORE-

I pulled each wire one at a time off of the coil pack to see if i was getting fire to the wires and yes i was....After running for about 10mins the problem seems to clear up some..<but steel idles funny>-misfire-
Iv got no check engine lights on...
Some one said that theses engines are bad about dropping valves and cracking heads But i dont think thats the problem im not losing water or oil and im damn sure not smoking...
Anyone got any ideas???

This was not happening yesterday bc i recorded a video of my truck and posted it on youtube just for fun here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWddIEChF5I

About an hr ago i had to take my wife to the ER and on the way I STOMPED on it and I could here what sounded to be <spudering or poping> But the truck did get up and go....



Thanks God bless!!!

[shorod]

Welcome to the forum!

When is the last time you had a tune up performed, at least spark plugs and wires? If it's been 10's of thousands of miles you might consider changing them before digging in to this too far. When you were pulling wires one at a time did you notice one that didn't make a difference in the way the engine idled?

If you can find a fuel pressure gauge to borrow, next time it's acting up try checking the fuel pressure.

-Rod

[The_last_regulator]

Thanks you for welcoming me...
I tuned up the truck about 1mth ago...
Ok today I changed the fuel pump-This seemed to help a bit-

Anyway heres whats happening now....
@ 1500rpms or less the engion ruf idles if i rev to around 2000rpms the engine runs smother but every now and then u here small pop or skip...

If im driving It will some times run ok but for the most part it skips spits and spuders BAD....

When i got home i had the idea to check the air idl control and the throttle body control sensor.....

When Unplugged the air idl control the engine bogged down....
But when I unplugged the Throttle body control sensor NOTHING CHANGED
-I was told this means its bad-

ANY IDEAS????

Also I was wondering how bad are these engions about cracking heads or such?????What are the cons to this engine???
and if its throttle sensor wouldn't this throw a code???


Thanks God bless

[danielsatur]

Doe's the truck idle fine with the Air conditioner on or off ?

Always make sure you have a good fuel filter, Air filter, and clean the MAF sensor.
Because of Age + mileage have your catalytic converters check at a local muffler shop.
A plugged cat won't throw a code, it chokes an engine out, misfires, and could cause heat damage to your engine.

[The_last_regulator]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

Doe's the truck idle fine with the Air conditioner on or off ?

Always make sure you have a good fuel filter, Air filter, and clean the MAF sensor.
Because of Age + mileage have your catalytic converters check at a local muffler shop.
A plugged cat won't throw a code, it chokes an engine out, misfires, and could cause heat damage to your engine.

NOPE---ENGINE STEEL RUFF IDLES---No change-----

my runnign temp has been between 180 and never more then 200--
Iv got after market gauges...Thanks for your help and time..

[shorod]

If you're not getting a change in the engine idle with the A/C on, I'd be hesitant to condemn the IAC. Also, any time you accelerate off of idle, which 1500 rpms would be, the IAC is no longer a factor. So since you still have a rough idle up at 1500 rpms I would say your IAC is not the root cause.

I haven't heard about many people having cracked heads. It is pretty common to have a vacuum leak from the intake manifold gasket or the PCV elbow and/or grommet though.

-Rod

[The_last_regulator]

UMMMM....
I thought that maybe the problem might be the plenum gasket.
Iv changed the gasket before on a 1990 f150 5.0 it was a bad job just took some time....
Im screed that it maybe the problem on this one.....
Tomarrow Im going to pull the -air idle control- The -Throttle body sensor- the -masair flow sensor- off of a friends old explorer...
If this dont work im going after the plenum gasket....

I gtg...THANKS FOR YALLS TIME

[The_last_regulator]

First i want to say thank for yalls time....

Ok i changed the- Throttle body sensor- -Air idle control-
And nothing changed....

What should i use to check for a vacuum-leek???
I got wd-40 but that is not flammable---I got some fuel in a spry bottle....

Also IM DEAD BROKE KEEP IN MIND...

Ok i made some notes about every lil thing to day heres what they are.

When cold < Misfire is bad > if i rev the misfire remains but is not as bad -Lot of poping-

After warm up < steel misfire at idle>- if i rev the misfire is no wear near as bad maybe even gone-

DOES NOT matter if car is warm or cold....If in _Drive_ the truck will misfire/popping/sputter/ on acceleration----After acceleration the truck bucks....sometimes there seems to be a sport wear i can hold the fuel peddle and the car will accel ok....

In 4 years this has been the only problem plus i only paid 500 for the damn thing-Damn good runner-

O yea some good news.....I got pissed off today and needed to turn around........I pulled into the turning lane to make a U-turn and gunned it.....when i did the damn thing spun a turn in a half <side ways burning the tires> at least i know the things got some heart left lol
THANKS for yalls time God Bess

[The_last_regulator]

Also whats the best way to check for a plenum leek????
Could the plenum bee leeking at the seems-Seeing how its plastic????
I tired using wd-40 didn notice anything different...
Guys Thanks once again for putting up with me and yalls time God bless

[shorod]

Well, your above detailed description also sounds an awful lot like an ignition misfire. I guess I need to ask if you changed the plugs and wires because of this misfire or if the misfire happened after you replaced the plugs and wires? It would be essentially free to make sure the plug wires are properly seated on the coil towers, pull the spark plugs to see if there are one or two that appear to be dirtier than the others, and then make sure the plug wires are seated well on the plugs as you put it all back together.

You could also check the EGR valve. If it is not able to close completely at idle it can cause stumbling since that too would be a vacuum leak. The DPFE is known to cause issues on these trucks, but they typically will trigger a diagnostic code or two when they fail.

You could learn a whole lot about what's going on if you had access to a scan tool with a datastream mode, and even more if you have one that can access the component parameters, specifically the real time individual cylinder misfire counts.

-Rod

[danielsatur]

Redneck smoke test for vacuum leaks!
1) Remove Air filter
2) Put some glad wrap around the air filter, and put filter back in.
The idea is to block all air going into the intake.
3) Remove the brake booster vacuum hose.
4) Light a Black & Mild cigar, and blow smoke into the brake booster vacuum hose, and plug with your thumb in between puffs.
5) Were ever you see a smoke leak is a problem.

Note - You can have your catalytic converters checked at any local muffler shop for free, see
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=972629

[The_last_regulator]

Thanks.....I going to try that....The vacuum leak check....Thats pretty smart.....

um....I checked one side of the engine tonite to see if i was getting fire to the plugs...
Heres what i did

I pulled each plug <ONE @ A TIME>and with the spark plug wire plugged to the spark plug i started the engine........I seen pretty good fire from the 3 i did check.

Iv never hard a over heating problem...I run a lower thermostat but JUST SO I KNOW

If i gut my cat=What can this hurt??? -My truck has 3 I beleave...

Will I get a check engine light or anything....

ANY ADVICE ABOUT ANYTHING WILL HELP


THANKS.....FOR YOUR EVERYTHING God bless

[shorod]

On your 2000, gutting any of the catalytic converters will likely trigger diagnostic codes related to catalyst efficiency and trigger the Check Engine Light.

If you're concerned that you have a plugged converter, you could try just disconnecting the exhaust from before the converter and see if that improves the way the engine runs. It will be noisy though so don't start it up and run it this way at 11pm or something crazy like that. Also be aware of any neighbors who may have napping children at the time you do it.

-Rod

[danielsatur]

Here a video, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzyvL5tQLzU

[The_last_regulator]

Hey Guysss...Problem fixed...
I had a cracked plug...I pop the hood last night and revd and i could see the spark jumping all over...I changed plugs and wires and now she runs like a top