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01-30-2004, 08:28 PM | #1 | |
AF Regular
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#$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
wtf is wrong with this company?
they put out the shittiest spraycans. now i have to strip my body. it's not just 'orange-peely'...the thing is a complete mess. testors needs to go to hell. does anyone share my feelings? |
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01-30-2004, 08:38 PM | #2 | ||
AF Fanatic
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Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
Quote:
Josh
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-Josh- 96' Integra GSR / ITR cams/valvetrain. Skunk2 IM, Greddy evo2, AEM CAI, RMF Header, Megan testpipe, Hasport mounts, Eibach coilovers, Beaks tie bar, Megan H brace, Rota Attacks, F/R strut bar, Kirk 6 point cage, Bride Cugas, Takata 4 Point, ITR Steering wheel 98' SVT Contour, 3L Port-Matched swap with SVT cams/full bolt ons; 224fwhp. 01' Chevy Blazer, DD. |
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01-30-2004, 08:47 PM | #3 | |
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Thread starter
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Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
but when i paint with tamiya, it comes out fine.
it was a bit cheaper, so i went for the testors, and i came out with shoddy results. |
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01-30-2004, 08:55 PM | #4 | |
AF Fanatic
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Laquer and Enamel are totally different paints, Laquer lays very smooth, even on a little rough surface, Testors needs to be completly smooth for good results.
Josh
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-Josh- 96' Integra GSR / ITR cams/valvetrain. Skunk2 IM, Greddy evo2, AEM CAI, RMF Header, Megan testpipe, Hasport mounts, Eibach coilovers, Beaks tie bar, Megan H brace, Rota Attacks, F/R strut bar, Kirk 6 point cage, Bride Cugas, Takata 4 Point, ITR Steering wheel 98' SVT Contour, 3L Port-Matched swap with SVT cams/full bolt ons; 224fwhp. 01' Chevy Blazer, DD. |
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01-30-2004, 09:00 PM | #5 | |
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well like I have always said.. testors are hit and miss.. I once got a can of gloss black that spraied perfect.. dried with no orange peel.. I once got two cans (went back to the store to exchange) of italian red that were complete useless.. the paint dried like bread crumbs and flat.
always test spray a new can of testors before you spray your model with it..
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01-30-2004, 09:02 PM | #6 | |
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also.. I must disagree with the difference between lacquer and enamel.. lacquer dries thin so the surface prep must be close to perfect.. unless you intend to spray on many costs. enamel on the other hand hides surface inperfections.. but they can also hide details.. that's because they skin over and dry from the outside in.
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01-30-2004, 09:12 PM | #7 | |
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Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
The day I stoped buying Testor Spraycan and buing Tamiya insted, is the day my model started to look good. don't try to save 3$ on a spraycan..
the only Testor spraycan I use is Clear coat.. it work great for me and cost about 2.50$.use it 2 time and put it in the garbage (after 2 shoot it won't give you good result) also the only good clear is the number 18xx. there are some with other number, just pure crap.
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01-30-2004, 09:22 PM | #8 | ||
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Re: Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
Quote:
BTW...i love testors spray cans. its all in the prep. some dont even require clear to get a good shine.
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01-30-2004, 09:30 PM | #9 | ||
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Re: Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
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01-30-2004, 09:48 PM | #10 | ||
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Re: Re: Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
Quote:
3$ difference a spray can is good for 2 model 1.50$ each model is all the trouble that Testor paint give you worth saving 1.50$ when you spend 40$ on a model ? I really don't think so....
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01-30-2004, 10:13 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Re: Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
It's all in the preparation of the body, the primer, and most of all the painter. you have to take your royal ass time painting. dont try to cover the body with one coat.
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01-30-2004, 10:15 PM | #12 | ||
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Re: Re: Re: Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
Quote:
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1995 Acura Integra Special Edition (something real special about a 5000 rpm changeover... ) |
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01-30-2004, 10:39 PM | #13 | ||
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Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
Quote:
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It ain't cool 'till your wife hates it. Imagine a world without Alabama Recent builds: Rocket Bunny FR-S and stock BRZ Toyota bB Bro-style Civic K20 powered SiR converted EK WIP I build slowly and poorly. |
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01-30-2004, 11:13 PM | #14 | |
AF Regular
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Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
I've been painting for years. I've painted almost everything in the world that doesn't move and some things that do But I never painted model cars. So, I had a few problems when I first started painting models. Like trying to do it all in one coat. Lots of things in life that get painted can be done with 1 fat coat but not models. After reading the 'How to' I have had no problems at all. Take your time and do light coats.
Surface prep is important no matter what you're painting. I don't care if it's a house or a model. If the surface is dirty, oily, chipped or 'anything other than perfect', don't expect the paint to fix it. One think to think about is the temperature. Paint should be 70F-75F (21C-23C). The surface you are painting should be close to the same temp as the paint, no matter what you're painting this will hold true. Another thing is shaking the can. If the instructions say shake for 1 minute after you hear the ball, shake it for two and shake it often while you're painting. Shake, spray, spray, shake, spray spray... And keep the knozzle klean bro! Wipe it whenever you see ANY buildup. I get my Testors foo cans at Wallmart for $2.37 a can. I love the stuff. I have yet to find 'the other brand' being sold around me. So I cannot compare the two products. Good luck man. Barry |
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01-31-2004, 12:53 AM | #15 | |
AF Enthusiast
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Re: #$@^!%&!$# TESTORS!!!!
You know....I have been building models for almost thirty years. I have used Testors paints for almost the whole time. Airbrush or spray can, it does not matter, Testors paint is just not consistent. Sometimes no matter what you do they just will not work. I have brought home cans that would not even spray. I have had projects with hours of prep wasted because of bad paint. On the other hand I have had project that I just threw the paint on turn out glass smooth. I think its just the luck of the draw. BUT since I switched to Tamiya sprays, they always turn out good. I have NEVER had a problem with Tamiya spray due to bad paint. They do not seem to cover as much as Testors, which makes them even more expensive,but to me they are worth it.
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