'01 LS V8 will run with new battery

[34Ford]

Well here I am back with the same issue as the last 2 batteries.
Ever since the wife has had this car, the last 2 batteries would spin the starter, but it wouldn't run.
Bought batteries and it fixed it.

But damn, now her battery is only 13 months old.

Is it true that if the battery gets just week enough that the motor is starved for enough juice for it to run?

Last dealer couldn't figure out why she needed a battery when the one she replaced was good. I told them do it anyway, and it worked, last year.

She called the dealer today and their saying its the alternator is pulling it down. I say BS. Its not a dead battery, its a temperamental motor, I guess.

I dont know what to do. This is getting old.

[joegr]

Your alternator is failing. You need to replace the alternator (use only OEM Ford, rebuilt or new). You will probably have to replace the battery one more time too (failing alternator probably killed it).

With a good alternator, the car will continue (even with a weak battery) to run after it is jump started.

[danielsatur]

1) Have both the battery + alternator load tested.
2) Make sure your battery isn't being drain with the ignition off & key out.
3) Make sure all connections are clean & tight, this could prevent the alternator from doing it's job.

[shorod]

It's not the engine that needs the strong battery, it's all the car's electronics. And it does seem the LS is more sensitive to a strong battery than most modern cars. But, only getting about a year out of a battery is not typical. I wouldn't be surprised if you were having this issue every 3 years, but every 13 months, yeah.

How often is the car driven, and what is the typical distance that the car is driven regularly? Do you have a way (multimeter) to test the charging system voltage once the car is running?

On my cars, which don't see many long trips each year, I do sporadically use a desulfator on the batteries to attempt to keep them healthy longer. It may be something for you to consider as well.

-Rod

[34Ford]

I was gonna check the charging volts yesterday evening but of all things my Explorer battery went dead too, and in the process of moving the battery charger, (its on wheels), the dang thing fell over and hit my shin and I had to call it a night with a ice pack.

Back to the LS now.
I dont know yet, but Saturday I cleaned the battery posts and so far it has started ok for her.

I have a analog meter, what should the high volts check while running?
I guess for a load test I need to visit the Advance Auto.

[joegr]

Engine running, you should get 14.0 to 14.5 volts. Less than 13.8V is a problem. Over 14.8V is a serious problem. Be sure to turn the headlights on and set the AC fan to high while doing this test. Also check that the reading is steady. Many alternator problems are intermittent, so the alternator may go from charging to not charging and back to charging.

[danielsatur]

Found a good video, Google ''Youtube DIY Auto fixing battery drain scotty''
www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_qK90IIc

Always turn all bells + whistles off prior to destination, and don't turn on until a Cold morning start is running normal operating Temp.

[joegr]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

...
Always turn all bells + whistles off prior to destination, and don't turn on until a Cold morning start is running normal operating Temp.

Not required. I leave everything on and restart with it on. (climate control, heated/cooled seats, auto headlights, navigation/radio, radar detector, ...) I've never had any problems. The PCM disables the heavy loads (like AC compressor) until the engine is at a good idle speed. The additional electrical loads are so small compared to the hundreds of amps that the starter takes as to not matter. They can make a difference if your battery is marginal, but if your battery is marginal it needs to be replaced. The factory batteries in both of my LSes lasted about five to six years. The replacement batteries are still going strong.

[34Ford]

With headlights on I got 14 volts. Should have checked with a digital too.

Knock on wood, so far it has started ok since I cleaned the posts.
While Im here, has anyone found these batteries anywhere other than a dealer?

[shorod]

I got the battery for my wife's LS at a non-OEM store but I don't recall if it was O'Reilly Auto Parts or Batteries Plus. I will add though that the battery I got non-OEM did NOT have the vent like the OEM battery does.

-Rod

[joegr]

You really want one with the vent connection. (All car batteries vent hydrogen under adverse conditions.)

Anyway, I think you can get one with a vent connection from Napa and a few other places. However, the cost is about the same as the dealer.

Let's hope that you are lucky and the real problem was the battery connections and not the alternator.

[34Ford]

Well its thursday now and its been starting ok, so I guess the posts or clamps was the problem.

Oh, she needs it inspected. I wonder if the air bag lamp being on will cause it to not pass.

I know, its the clock spring. I dont suppose I will find a new one under $155.

[34Ford]

Failed inspection. No horn.

Uh, I dread tearing into the steering wheel, course replacing that DCCV and timing chain tensioners wasn't any fun either.

Wish we could afford a Taurus.

[34Ford]

Clock spring on its way.

She had trouble with it not wanting to start yesterday.
Guess I am looking for a alternator now.

[34Ford]

Took me 6 hours to replace the alternator Friday laying on my back.
Damn I am sore.

Got all 3 bolts out right, For the love of pete, I could not get it to come out due to the fit was so tight on the top and could only move it 1/2" back and forth for over a hour.
Wiggle, wiggle, let my arms down to rest, wiggle, wiggle.
Then I had the same problem putting the new one back in.

Her LS is gonna kill me.