Car doesn't start, doesn't crake, makes noise

[codyrunsfast]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4OH...ature=youtu.be

2003 Hyundai Accent
1.6 L MFI DOHC 4 cyl
120,000 miles
Transmission replaced ~9 months ago

So, here is a video demonstrating what is going on with my car. I just replaced the battery yesterday after it wouldn't start in -25 degree weather and the battery was diagnosed as being bad at Autozone.

I installed the new battery and immediately started the car to warm it up so I could continue trying to loosen my O2 sensor, which also needs replaced but is really stuck in there.

I went to start it this morning at 5:45 am and since then it only makes this noise when I try to start it. The headlights are bright, the interior dome light does NOT dim when I turn the key, and the engine does not turn over.

If anybody could help me with this, that'd be so awesome. I just dropped $75 getting the O2 sensor diagnosed and I don't want to take it back to the shop. Thanks!

[shorod]

Welcome to the forum!

I tried a few different things to make sure my speakers were working, but I didn't hear anything on that video clip.

But, I did notice that at no point in the video did the indicators in the instrument cluster perform a bulb test which they should when the key is turned to the Run position. No flicker even. So it would seem that either your battery connection is bad (which wouldn't seem right since you state the lights are bright) or possibly your ignition switch or key cylinder switch are bad.

Out of curiosity, what symptoms are you getting that lead to the O2 sensor diagnosis? Since there really are no diagnostic codes that state an O2 sensor is bad (only that data being reported by them is out or specification) I wouldn't be too quick to jump on replacing the sensor.

-Rod

[codyrunsfast]

Originally Posted by shorod

Welcome to the forum!

I tried a few different things to make sure my speakers were working, but I didn't hear anything on that video clip.

But, I did notice that at no point in the video did the indicators in the instrument cluster perform a bulb test which they should when the key is turned to the Run position. No flicker even. So it would seem that either your battery connection is bad (which wouldn't seem right since you state the lights are bright) or possibly your ignition switch or key cylinder switch are bad.

Out of curiosity, what symptoms are you getting that lead to the O2 sensor diagnosis? Since there really are no diagnostic codes that state an O2 sensor is bad (only that data being reported by them is out or specification) I wouldn't be too quick to jump on replacing the sensor.

-Rod

Did you try any other youtube videos? Besides the annoying key-in-ignition warning (left my door open by accident when filming the video) you should have heard this weird eeeeeeeererrrrrrr noise. :-D Anyway, I believe I figured it out; I cleaned the terminals and posts and after making the noise once more the car finally started like normal. I did forget to clean those before installing the new battery but that hadn't even crossed my mind since the car started up right away right after installing the new battery (the first time anyway).

I'll see if I get the same problem again. As for the O2 sensor, Autozone diagnosed it and I had a mechanic shop diagnose it. Autozone used their computer scanner and I don't know how the shop diagnosed it, I heard they use the same scanners.

The reason I took the car in for that was because the check engine light came on. While we're on this topic, I've been having trouble getting the upstream O2 sensor out, it's really jammed in there. I soaked it with PB for a couple of days and it's still jammed in there good, any ideas? Impact wrench? I dunno at this point, and I don't want to pay the $350 that a shop quoted me at.

[shorod]

I just tried watching the video here at work and the audio was present. That is almost like a muffled honking noise. Very strange sound. Let's hope that it was just dirty cables, but I'm not sure what could have caused that sound unless the starter solenoid was not engaging the Bendix on the starter. Maybe the sound was just the start motor spinning, but the starter gear was not being pushed to the flywheel. If it happens again you might be able to remove the start, disassemble the solenoid/Bendix, clean the shaft and re-lubricate it, then put it all back together. Although I think it's pretty standard that the solenoid needs to engage to close the contacts that send current to the starter motor....

You're comment on why you think the O2 sensor needs to be replaced is halfway what I was fearing. The folks working at parts stores often mis-interpret the diagnostic codes. It may have been a code that the B1S1 O2 sensor was reading lean, and often that will get interpreted to mean the sensor is bad when more likely it's due to a vacuum leak. Now, since a shop also diagnosed it to be the same, that gives a little bit more support to the diagnosis, but it might also mean the shop suspects a vacuum leak but estimated the more expensive repair to provide them a buffer in the event it's not the simple fix. If you happen to have the exact code definition (such as P0171) it might be in your best interest to post that here for additional items to test before you possibly waste money on a new sensor.

I certainly agree with you that you don't want to pay $350 to have a shop replace the sensor. If you haven't already done so, borrow the Sending Unit and O2 Sensor socket set from your local parts store. There are sockets in the set that are specifically intended for removing oxygen sensors and include a cutout to accommodate the wiring for the sensor. It's also a hardened heavy wall socket so you can apply quite a bit of torque without the socket deforming and rounding off the sensor. Since you've already used PB Blaster and it's been soaking, that's a good start. The next step would be to apply heat to the exhaust in that area, but that always makes me nervous in such a confined space that has been soaked with a petroleum based penetrant.

-Rod