Easy way to get those rear 3800 spark plugs

[LMP]

Finally I found a rational way to get these 3800 rear spark plugs: from under. A pit is required though.
Remove the triangular exhaust heat shield - easy - www.avigex.ca/xport/exhaustshield.jpg
Install a jack under the center of the anti-sway bar, lift up 3 or four inches (tires will still contact the floor) then position jacks under front left and right body jack stations, then:
Unbolt the rear 2 frame bolts www.avigex.ca/xport/framebolt.jpg then lower the center jack so the frame rubber shoes decompress and then lower to separate from the car body but not more than 1"....that is a total of near 2 inches gain in access; all engine and transmission and rack and pinion will go down with the frame but going over that 1" clearance would extend the steering link too far ( if the steering link is first disconnected, the frame can be lowered as much as 4 inches, what I did a few years ago to take the rack an pinion out)
At that time, access to the spark plugs is easy and the change is made in about 15minutes...most of the time taken to switch between rachet driver extensions to match the available clearance...but that is rather straightforward.
THe photo here www.avigex.ca/xport/rearplugs.jpg was taken after the frame was bolted back into place...my hands were too dirty to handle the camera during the process.

Holy cow LMP!! hahaha ... I know those plugs are a pain but that sounds like alot of work...I can lay over the engine & with 2 hands & blind change the plugs in 20-30 mins...not the most comfortable & a few scratches but after 2 or 3 times you know where the plugs go... just my $.02

[llerrad]

I do the lay on the engine thing and blind feel the plugs in not all that bad to do.

[tinkering]

Originally Posted by llerrad

I do the lay on the engine thing and blind feel the plugs in not all that bad to do.

It depends on the size of the guy doing it. I find it to be an unbearable strain on my whole body not too mention the bruises and missing skin. I got it done last time like that but this time I am going to see if I can pull up the carpet at the passenger's feet, and cut a hole in the floor somewhere to get in there. Screwing a metal patch down will make an easy access for next time. Maybe it isn't feasible room wise but I am going to check it out.

Amended Dec 07, 2014
I tried to go through the floor for easy access to the 3 rear bank plugs but I had no success. The accessible area of the floorboards under the carpet is too far down to access the plugs. You would have to go through the firewall too; there are chambers and brackets etc. between the floor and the firewall. I have given up on that idea

I did the blind feel thing again. This being the second time around, it went a bit easier. It probably took an hour or so. I lost less skin this time too. It started up and ran so well with the new plugs in, it made the job feel more than worth while. Don't forget to place a spark plug boot (from an old spark plug wire) on the plug for starting it into the hole; this gives it a bit more reach and you can start it with your fingers then switch to the spark plug wrench to finish up.

[FixedItRight]

You guys are working too hard!!
I know this is an old thread, but this is timeless and crossed many brands. Learned this on my 1995 Lumina A(ll) P(lastic) V(an):
1. Remove one end of the dog bone mount.
2. Attach a thin ratcheting tie down strap from the dog bone bracket on the motor to the front of the core support.
3. Tighten the strap to pull the engine forward as far as you can (if you have bad mounts you'll find that out now too).
4. Take a 6-8" piece of 1x2 or similar and using a small hammer BREAK THE 3 REAR PLUGS.
5. Remove plug stubs with whatever wrench works best for you.
6. Remove broken insulators from plug boots.
7. Any questions?? Helllooo - you're R.E.P.L.A.C.I.N.G. the plugs anyway, who cares if they break? Not me.
8. Install new plugs, etc...
Figured this out by accident and it turned 1+ hour plug job into 25 minutes. That wiper linkage on those U bodies is a real nasty monster to beat.
Hope this saves at least 1 person a few stiches to the forearm.

[tinkering]

Originally Posted by FixedItRight

You guys are working too hard!!
I know this is an old thread, but this is timeless and crossed many brands. Learned this on my 1995 Lumina A(ll) P(lastic) V(an):
1. Remove one end of the dog bone mount.
2. Attach a thin ratcheting tie down strap from the dog bone bracket on the motor to the front of the core support.
3. Tighten the strap to pull the engine forward as far as you can (if you have bad mounts you'll find that out now too).
4. Take a 6-8" piece of 1x2 or similar and using a small hammer BREAK THE 3 REAR PLUGS.
5. Remove plug stubs with whatever wrench works best for you.
6. Remove broken insulators from plug boots.
7. Any questions?? Helllooo - you're R.E.P.L.A.C.I.N.G. the plugs anyway, who cares if they break? Not me.
8. Install new plugs, etc...
Figured this out by accident and it turned 1+ hour plug job into 25 minutes. That wiper linkage on those U bodies is a real nasty monster to beat.
Hope this saves at least 1 person a few stitches to the forearm.

I don't think threads are ever 'too old'; if they apply they apply.

Thanks for the new twist on exposing those little devils (and for checking the motor mounts at the same time).

I'm not sure what you mean by 'the core support'?

I can't see why I would have to bust the insulators to get the wires off but if a guy thinks it helps him, go for it.

I'm going to try your method next time. Thanks again!

[FixedItRight]

The "core support" is the structure that holds the radiator, condenser, etc. The reason for breaking the plugs is to eliminate the =&)_&$* task of prying the boots off in that God forsaken black hole behind the motor. It's muuuuuch easier to fumble with the insulator stubs and boots in a more open and accessible area.
BTW I'm a big guy with a bad back and it was a real blessing; too bad it got totalled 3 years later.

[tinkering]

Originally Posted by FixedItRight

The "core support" is the structure that holds the radiator, condenser, etc. The reason for breaking the plugs is to eliminate the =&)_&$* task of prying the boots off in that God forsaken black hole behind the motor. It's muuuuuch easier to fumble with the insulator stubs and boots in a more open and accessible area.
BTW I'm a big guy with a bad back and it was a real blessing; too bad it got totalled 3 years later.

That is a good enough reason; if it saves ten more minutes of agony it's worth it! It might be kind of satisfying paying the thing back a bit too, with a 2x2 I will try it that way next time. I am big too and I hate the treatment I get under there.

FixedItRight,
Thanks a ton for sending your help in even though you don't have your TS anymore. Do you have another one? They are good machines; I would get another one for sure, at the right price.

[LMP]

[tinkering]

Originally Posted by LMP

We aren't finished working on our 93 TPs yet eh LMP I've got some brakes to do and a few other things and it will be ready for the road again. I'm glad you still have yours.

[FixedItRight]

Don't know how out comes up (I never got into the'forum thing, too complicated for me), but I'm in Arizona - and that's 2 miles from the Sun. Out here any plastic interior parts exposed to more than 4 summers of direct, non shaded parking are TRASHED! Not just ugly, but like trying to straighten bent taffy in a deep freezer. I was happy to find a driver's door panel in less than 4 pieces last week for my 96 Chevy Express Van. Lumina? It was ok, but I prefer my van to be on a pickup platform, not a Bonneville's. 😉

[tinkering]

Originally Posted by FixedItRight

Don't know how out comes up (I never got into the'forum thing, too complicated for me), but I'm in Arizona - and that's 2 miles from the Sun. Out here any plastic interior parts exposed to more than 4 summers of direct, non shaded parking are TRASHED! Not just ugly, but like trying to straighten bent taffy in a deep freezer. I was happy to find a driver's door panel in less than 4 pieces last week for my 96 Chevy Express Van. Lumina? It was ok, but I prefer my van to be on a pickup platform, not a Bonneville's. ��

The winters and the hail are hard on vehicles up here in Alberta. The Transport is strung a lot like a car that is for sure but the air shocks give it some load capability. It is better on the highway than as a utility vehicle, that is for sure. I have my truck with a cap for heavier work stuff. That's a great description of what the sun does to you down there. We could use some of that warmth at this time of winter though