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Old 11-10-2005, 02:07 PM   #31
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Re: Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Altimas
What you gotta do to make it handle?


Pretty much whatever you want. Depends on how much you can afford. I'd say start with SFCs, springs/shocks/struts, and sway bars. Then upgrade what you see fit from there.
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Old 11-10-2005, 05:18 PM   #32
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Re: Re: Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlander757
Pretty much whatever you want. Depends on how much you can afford. I'd say start with SFCs, springs/shocks/struts, and sway bars. Then upgrade what you see fit from there.
How do the mustangs with the newer bodies compare?
And with that in mind, does the SOHC 4.6 have a decent aftermarket now?
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Old 11-11-2005, 09:44 PM   #33
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I'll let you in on a secret...

EVERY mustang from 1979 to 2004 is built on the same chassis.

The fox bodies(79-93) are lightest and came with the 5.0.

The SN95(94-95) were much heavier and came with the 5.0 as well, which were the last years it was produced in the Mustang.

From 96 to 98 it had a 2 valve 4.6L SOHC which doesn't respond very well to modifications because the heads are severely choked. Best off staying away from these.

99 to 04 were the real good years of the 4.6. They were 4 valve and breathed much easier. They weren't lacking balls like the 2 valve did. These respond VERY well to forced induction I might add(read: 03-04 Cobra)

The 4.6L has an extensive aftermarket. There are tons of mustangs flaunting well over 400hp locally. They are quite magnificent.

Though I'd say 5.0s just have something special about them. I have a love for pushrods.

The fox body mustangs are preferred to the others mainly because they are so damn light in comparison. You can gut a fox and buy some weight saving suspension pieces and it will weigh in around 2900(as opposed to I think 3400 for stock "New Edge" Mustangs).

If creature comforts and a refined interior are more important then I'd say go for a 99-04 stang. If you wanna look badass and have a great handling car, go for a 5.0 Fox body.

Also... To break down how fox bodies are different since it spanned for so many years:
79-85 were carbuerated
86-93 were fuel injected
79-86 had the funny looking 4 lens front ends
87-93 had the more refined looking front end
86-88 had a Speed Density computer, which basically means you need a computer tune for EVERY modification that changes volumetric efficiency on it
89-93 were MAF(Mass Air Flow) which did not require constant tuning for new mods, so it is generally easier to work with
93 had cheaper pistons which generally aren't as good as used in previous years, also the GT was rated 10hp less than 92(though some argue this is because they introduced the Cobra and needed to make the Cobra look better)

Not too bad for a Chevy guy eh?

So to sum it up: if you decide on a Fox body, go for 89-92. You could always go for an 86-88, and just convert to MAF which costs around $1000 if I remember correctly. The only problem with 86 is something about the pistons not having a certain kind of oiling pin or something and makes it hard to use aftermarket cams or something along the lines of that. So if you DO decide to do a conversion to MAF, stick with 87 or 88.

Also Convertibles are heavier than Hatchbacks which are heavier than the Notchback

And a GT 5.0 is heavier than an LX 5.0. The LX was designed to be a plain jane factory sleeper and weighed a bit less than the GT.

So if at all possible get an 89-92 LX notchback 5.0.

::takes breath::
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Old 11-11-2005, 11:53 PM   #34
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Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlander757
I'll let you in on a secret...

EVERY mustang from 1979 to 2004 is built on the same chassis.

The fox bodies(79-93) are lightest and came with the 5.0.

The SN95(94-95) were much heavier and came with the 5.0 as well, which were the last years it was produced in the Mustang.

From 96 to 98 it had a 2 valve 4.6L SOHC which doesn't respond very well to modifications because the heads are severely choked. Best off staying away from these.

99 to 04 were the real good years of the 4.6. They were 4 valve and breathed much easier. They weren't lacking balls like the 2 valve did. These respond VERY well to forced induction I might add(read: 03-04 Cobra)

The 4.6L has an extensive aftermarket. There are tons of mustangs flaunting well over 400hp locally. They are quite magnificent.

Though I'd say 5.0s just have something special about them. I have a love for pushrods.

The fox body mustangs are preferred to the others mainly because they are so damn light in comparison. You can gut a fox and buy some weight saving suspension pieces and it will weigh in around 2900(as opposed to I think 3400 for stock "New Edge" Mustangs).

If creature comforts and a refined interior are more important then I'd say go for a 99-04 stang. If you wanna look badass and have a great handling car, go for a 5.0 Fox body.

Also... To break down how fox bodies are different since it spanned for so many years:
79-85 were carbuerated
86-93 were fuel injected
79-86 had the funny looking 4 lens front ends
87-93 had the more refined looking front end
86-88 had a Speed Density computer, which basically means you need a computer tune for EVERY modification that changes volumetric efficiency on it
89-93 were MAF(Mass Air Flow) which did not require constant tuning for new mods, so it is generally easier to work with
93 had cheaper pistons which generally aren't as good as used in previous years, also the GT was rated 10hp less than 92(though some argue this is because they introduced the Cobra and needed to make the Cobra look better)

Not too bad for a Chevy guy eh?

So to sum it up: if you decide on a Fox body, go for 89-92. You could always go for an 86-88, and just convert to MAF which costs around $1000 if I remember correctly. The only problem with 86 is something about the pistons not having a certain kind of oiling pin or something and makes it hard to use aftermarket cams or something along the lines of that. So if you DO decide to do a conversion to MAF, stick with 87 or 88.

Also Convertibles are heavier than Hatchbacks which are heavier than the Notchback

And a GT 5.0 is heavier than an LX 5.0. The LX was designed to be a plain jane factory sleeper and weighed a bit less than the GT.

So if at all possible get an 89-92 LX notchback 5.0.

::takes breath::
I just thought they may have updated it abit... like increased the rigidity and such.
So what doesn't the LX have that the GT has besides body wise?
notch=coupe
Oh and what's it take to raise the power band up to a more respectable 5000-5500 range from the weak 4000 rpm range?
Like you need stiffer valvespings to make it safe to rev that high with a hotter cam?
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:00 AM   #35
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To make it healthier in the higher rpm range, that will mostly deal with the intake manifold. A good choice is the FRPP(Ford Racing Performance Parts) GT-40 manifold. It doesn't lose much power if any down low, and will make it breath much easier up top. You'd be best off getting new heads/cam and intake manifold all at the same time though. Along with a valvetrain to support it.

The LX is the exact same as the GT in every mechanical aspect. Only difference is that the LX is a dressed down(lighter) version. They came with more plain looking wheels from the factory too.

And you're right about the newer mustangs being more rigid. But you can fix that easily with some subframe connectors(SFCs).

Check out www.50mustangandsuperfords.com and read around a bit.

And another GREAT site for improving mustang handling is www.maximummotorsports.com which is who I think I'll use if/when I build up a 5.0 for auto x.
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Old 11-12-2005, 12:35 PM   #36
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Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

thank dude!
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Old 11-12-2005, 07:03 PM   #37
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n/p

any more questions, just shoot
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Old 11-13-2005, 10:41 PM   #38
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Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

So is it true since most of the lx's are 4 bangers (?) that insurance is cheaper?

And how much is it (if I do it) to just get the handling decent, not like super dooper?
Like to tighten up the handling but too hardcore, just for a street car?
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:02 AM   #39
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Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlander757
I'll let you in on a secret...

EVERY mustang from 1979 to 2004 is built on the same chassis.

The fox bodies(79-93) are lightest and came with the 5.0.

The SN95(94-95) were much heavier and came with the 5.0 as well, which were the last years it was produced in the Mustang.

From 96 to 98 it had a 2 valve 4.6L SOHC which doesn't respond very well to modifications because the heads are severely choked. Best off staying away from these.

99 to 04 were the real good years of the 4.6. They were 4 valve and breathed much easier. They weren't lacking balls like the 2 valve did. These respond VERY well to forced induction I might add(read: 03-04 Cobra)

The 4.6L has an extensive aftermarket. There are tons of mustangs flaunting well over 400hp locally. They are quite magnificent.

Though I'd say 5.0s just have something special about them. I have a love for pushrods.

The fox body mustangs are preferred to the others mainly because they are so damn light in comparison. You can gut a fox and buy some weight saving suspension pieces and it will weigh in around 2900(as opposed to I think 3400 for stock "New Edge" Mustangs).

If creature comforts and a refined interior are more important then I'd say go for a 99-04 stang. If you wanna look badass and have a great handling car, go for a 5.0 Fox body.

Also... To break down how fox bodies are different since it spanned for so many years:
79-85 were carbuerated
86-93 were fuel injected
79-86 had the funny looking 4 lens front ends
87-93 had the more refined looking front end
86-88 had a Speed Density computer, which basically means you need a computer tune for EVERY modification that changes volumetric efficiency on it
89-93 were MAF(Mass Air Flow) which did not require constant tuning for new mods, so it is generally easier to work with
93 had cheaper pistons which generally aren't as good as used in previous years, also the GT was rated 10hp less than 92(though some argue this is because they introduced the Cobra and needed to make the Cobra look better)

Not too bad for a Chevy guy eh?

So to sum it up: if you decide on a Fox body, go for 89-92. You could always go for an 86-88, and just convert to MAF which costs around $1000 if I remember correctly. The only problem with 86 is something about the pistons not having a certain kind of oiling pin or something and makes it hard to use aftermarket cams or something along the lines of that. So if you DO decide to do a conversion to MAF, stick with 87 or 88.

Also Convertibles are heavier than Hatchbacks which are heavier than the Notchback

And a GT 5.0 is heavier than an LX 5.0. The LX was designed to be a plain jane factory sleeper and weighed a bit less than the GT.

So if at all possible get an 89-92 LX notchback 5.0.

::takes breath::
Yep except that starting in 1988 in Cali they had MAF. Then everywhere else starting in 1989.
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Old 11-14-2005, 02:09 PM   #40
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Re: Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

Quote:
Originally Posted by camaroincal
Yep except that starting in 1988 in Cali they had MAF. Then everywhere else starting in 1989.
Ahh you're right, I forgot about that!

88 Mustangs is the ONLY thing California is good for

jk

Quote:
Originally Posted by Altimas
So is it true since most of the lx's are 4 bangers (?) that insurance is cheaper?

And how much is it (if I do it) to just get the handling decent, not like super dooper?
Like to tighten up the handling but too hardcore, just for a street car?
I can't really comment on insurance, but I doubt it's a huge difference. They see V8 and Mustang on the card still. I know for me, the insurance difference between a V6 Camaro and my Z28 was about $40 a year. So likely it won't matter too much if at all.

Now, it sounds like you just want something that is fun to drive, doesn't give up daily comforts, but is sporty enough to hold it's own against other stockish cars.

My suggestions would be:
-Maximum Motorsports Chassis Brace Package (includes Subframe connectors, strut tower brace, and K-member brace) Just make sure to get the full length SFCs, they are much more rigid. ~$350 depending on mustang model and year

-MAC progressive rate lowering springs $190
-KYB AGX adjustable shocks These will allow you to tweak the suspension to how you want. $415
-MAC caster-camber plates You need these for lowered cars if you want alignment to go smoothly and not worry about horrible tire wear. $160


-Swaybars, torque arm, panhard bar, etc etc.... do whatever you want or feel you need to enhance handling further. Stiffer chassis and

That should get what you feel you need to obtain for a fun to drive street car. Don't forget that new wheels and tires will have a huge impact on how it handles, but it is also the most costly. My advice is use Maximum Motorsports for all of your chassis stiffening goodies and then call up Laurel Mountain for springs/shocks/camber plates and I think you will need spring isolators as well which are pretty cheap, like $20 or so maybe?

Gah, the www.laurelmountainmustang.com website is run with flash, so my links all just take you to the main page. It's easy to find, go to Late Model >>> Suspension and Handling >>> and the subcategories are there, you should be able to find the products I listed.
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Old 11-14-2005, 05:11 PM   #41
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Re: Re: Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlander757
Ahh you're right, I forgot about that!

88 Mustangs is the ONLY thing California is good for

jk



I can't really comment on insurance, but I doubt it's a huge difference. They see V8 and Mustang on the card still. I know for me, the insurance difference between a V6 Camaro and my Z28 was about $40 a year. So likely it won't matter too much if at all.

Now, it sounds like you just want something that is fun to drive, doesn't give up daily comforts, but is sporty enough to hold it's own against other stockish cars.

My suggestions would be:
-Maximum Motorsports Chassis Brace Package (includes Subframe connectors, strut tower brace, and K-member brace) Just make sure to get the full length SFCs, they are much more rigid. ~$350 depending on mustang model and year

-MAC progressive rate lowering springs $190
-KYB AGX adjustable shocks These will allow you to tweak the suspension to how you want. $415
-MAC caster-camber plates You need these for lowered cars if you want alignment to go smoothly and not worry about horrible tire wear. $160


-Swaybars, torque arm, panhard bar, etc etc.... do whatever you want or feel you need to enhance handling further. Stiffer chassis and

That should get what you feel you need to obtain for a fun to drive street car. Don't forget that new wheels and tires will have a huge impact on how it handles, but it is also the most costly. My advice is use Maximum Motorsports for all of your chassis stiffening goodies and then call up Laurel Mountain for springs/shocks/camber plates and I think you will need spring isolators as well which are pretty cheap, like $20 or so maybe?

Gah, the www.laurelmountainmustang.com website is run with flash, so my links all just take you to the main page. It's easy to find, go to Late Model >>> Suspension and Handling >>> and the subcategories are there, you should be able to find the products I listed.
I'll have to have my parents check since I will be under their insurance
Those mods don't look too bad price wise at all
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Old 11-16-2005, 12:06 AM   #42
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Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

If you are considering a four cylinder mustang then why not a 240SX. 4 banger mustangs I think have like 98 net horsepower, a nissan 240SX has like 130 horses to the wheels. you could get a 240 for around 1500.
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Old 11-16-2005, 12:15 AM   #43
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Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

4 banger stang?
Not I.
I make fun of 4 banger and 6 banger stang owners (as well as f-bodies)
If I wanted a slow car that handled well I'd get one like the one in your handle.
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Old 11-20-2005, 07:59 AM   #44
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Re: Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4blogger 96
240SX or Miata. Nuff said


S14 240SX, man.
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Old 11-20-2005, 09:53 AM   #45
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Re: sporty RWD car under 4k?

There was the svo mustang with a turbocharged 2.3l that had around the area of 180 bhp i forgot what years it was in but they still used the same engine in their rangers and i have one. Its a decent motor with no brageable horsepower but some good torque.
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