New to forum and Honda...have 2 questions

goingfor300k · 02-03-2006, 04:40 PM

I recently picked up a 95 Accord with a 4 cylinder VTEC and auto trans. I have 2 questions.
1) How do you adjust the idle? It idles around 500 RPM with a very slight vibration. I'd like to bump the idle up a few hundred RPM's. If someone could explain how to adjust the idle or post a pic of the the adjustment screw it would be great.
2) ABS light was on. Not really a big deal but I would like to fix it if possible. I noticed the fluid was low in the ABS reservoir, so I topped it off. I was hoping that would fix it but the light still comes on when it wants to. The light still seems to want to come on...sometimes it doesn't. Is there a code that needs to be cleared in the ABS system? and how is this done. If I clear the code, provided I can do this, and it still lights up, is there a process to pull codes for the ABS?

Sorry for the rookie questions but Ive never owned a Honda before.

Jim

somick · 02-03-2006, 06:20 PM

As far as I know IAC valve is responsible for idle speed. I tried to do a fast search but it did not work. More thorought search may give you better results.

I cannot understant what you mean under ABS fluid. If you added brake fluid to the brake master cylinder, then it does not have anything to do with ABS. The warning light means that the ABS system malfunctions. Probably it will not work during brake application.

Sam

goingfor300k · 02-03-2006, 06:51 PM

I cannot understant what you mean under ABS fluid. If you added brake fluid to the brake master cylinder, then it does not have anything to do with ABS. The warning light means that the ABS system malfunctions. Probably it will not work during brake application.

Sam[/quote]

I didn't add fluid to the master cylinder. I added fluid to the ABS cylinder. It apperars there are two seperate cylinders. One for the traditional braking system and one for the ABS system. Is there someone familiar with the ABS system that can chime in? Thanks.

sickhonda · 02-04-2006, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goingfor300k

2) ABS light was on. Not really a big deal but I would like to fix it if possible. I noticed the fluid was low in the ABS reservoir, so I topped it off. I was hoping that would fix it but the light still comes on when it wants to. The light still seems to want to come on...sometimes it doesn't. Is there a code that needs to be cleared in the ABS system? and how is this done. If I clear the code, provided I can do this, and it still lights up, is there a process to pull codes for the ABS? Jim

When the ABS light comes on while driving, when you STOP and RESTART the engine, does the indicator light goes OFF?

Not sure about 95 Accord, normaly there's a maintenance lid in your trunk compartment with blinking LED display to indicate the problem with ABS.

Common reason why your ABS indicator light comes on:

1. The tire adhesion is lost due to excessive cornering speed.

2. The vehicle loses traction when starting from a stuck condition on muddy, snowy, or sandy road condition.

3. When parking brake is applied for more than 30 seconds while the vehicle is being driven.

4. The vehicle is driven on extreme rough road.

If the driving conditions I described are not the possible causes then you might want to check your ABS sensors. You'll need an ALB Checker Unit to confirm proper wheel sensor operation. Good Luck!

somick · 02-04-2006, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sickhonda

If the driving conditions I described are not the possible causes then you might want to check your ABS sensors. You'll need an ALB Checker Unit to confirm proper wheel sensor operation. Good Luck!

Could uneven tire pressure cause this problem?

sickhonda · 02-05-2006, 03:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semyonlibman

Could uneven tire pressure cause this problem?

Really doubt it. The sensor will not change the air gap setting/spacing due to uneven tire pressure. Sensors are tested with ALB Checker with all four wheels off the ground, so uneven tire pressure makes no difference. However a bent knuckle will definitely affect the air gap of the sensor. Twisted wiring or bad connectors can also affect the sensor reading.

Catterman · 02-06-2006, 08:54 AM

I am no help with the ABS thingy, however I have the same car as you and I have a rough idel as well. I was told this is just how they are.

goingfor300k · 02-06-2006, 06:03 PM

The light is not coming on due to tire traction or anything related to driving the vehicle. It will come on after I start the car regardless of moving or not. Today it only came on once, other times it didn't come on. What I was looking for with this post was an answer to if there are codes for the ABS system, how to pull them, and how to clear them, if this is possible.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Catterman

I am no help with the ABS thingy, however I have the same car as you and I have a rough idel as well. I was told this is just how they are.

I highly doubt that a vibration at idle is normal. I would really question anyone that tells you this. I have driven quite a few and when they're running right they are silky smooth. I guess I need to find a Honda tech and see if the vibration is engine mount related or something tuneup related.

Catterman · 02-06-2006, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goingfor300k

I highly doubt that a vibration at idle is normal. I would really question anyone that tells you this. I have driven quite a few and when they're running right they are silky smooth. I guess I need to find a Honda tech and see if the vibration is engine mount related or something tuneup related.

Let me know what you find then. My mounts are all good, and I have a new timing belt, plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor, air filter, and just cleaned my EGR ports. I don't know what else it could be. Also, it isn't very bad, but is very noticable.

Igovert500 · 02-07-2006, 10:58 AM

Older hondas are known for worn motor mounts, but that would cause the entire engine to vibrate.

If you are talking simply about a fluctuating idle, check plugs, and vacuum hoses. A vacuum leak would cause a fluctuating idle. Lastly, could be o2 sensors, although if they go out, typically you would get a CEL.

As far as adjusting idle, IAC as mentioned above.

And I don't know for sure about the ABS light. However other than what was recommended above, you could check the wires to the wheel sensors. And to scan for codes, check the FAQ, it has all necessary info. Any code would be stored in the ECU, I don't necessarily think one will be, but if you wanna check...

Gripology · 02-07-2006, 10:17 PM

From experience, check the motor mounts for sure...not that would have anything to do with the idle, but...

I had a broken motor mount and didn't know it. Everytime I would race the engine, it would move the whole motor forward into the radiator...long story short, cost was about $1300 to fix all the stuff that got munched and pinched and etc. Food for thought.

goingfor300k · 02-15-2006, 07:08 PM

[quote=Igovert500]

As far as adjusting idle, IAC as mentioned above.

Whoever is saying that you can adjust the idle on these rice burners via the IAC is dead wrong. The IAC just sets a base for the computer to start at. The computer will always take over and try to compensate for any adjustments made to the IAC. If your idle is screwed up you have other problems that the ECU is trying to compensate for, or can't compensate for at all.

My poor idle was due to a dirty IAC valve. I had a well known Honda mech look at it and clean it. Runs like a dream now. Again, DO NOT TRY ADJUST YOUR IDLE WITH THE IAC SCREW. ITS SET AT THE FACTORY AND YOUR COMPUTER IS WHATS CONTROLLING YOUR IDLE. Poor idle means something else is messed up and your computer just cant compensate enough to straighten it out.

Igovert500 · 02-16-2006, 04:37 PM

Sorry you are correct. I was talking about the Biss screw ( i have one on my mitsu) that you can adjust. Yes, they are set at the factory, and shouldn't necessarily be tampered with...but you can in some cases adjust them. You only mentioned a low idle in your first post with only a slight vibration, so I interpreted the problem to be just a low idle, and a slight turn of the biss screw to bump it up to 700rpms wouldn't hurt anything, and the ECU wouldn't counter that. As you asked, it sounded like you just wanted to bump teh rpms up a bit, not fix a fluctuating idle.

Anyway, glad to hear you got it fixed. You only mentioned a small vibration, which I guessed was a small vacuum leak. Generally dirty IACs cause more noticeable issues, such as surging and stalling. Regardless, glad to found the culprit.

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