1993 Olds Cut. Supreme "S" Window problem

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Instead of using rivets to attach window motor to the window regulator, i used the supplied bolts. One problem. One of the bolts closest to gear would not go in. I used a dremel to rectify that. I also lowered the bolt height, because it would rubb against the moving gear.

So here is what i have so far:

[xeroinfinity]

Hey, great pics !

Those will surly help out others with this problem.

Those nuts that came with the regulator, were they nylon locking nuts ?

[CA Cutlass Supreme]

Originally Posted by xeroinfinity

Hey, great pics !

Those will surly help out others with this problem.

Those nuts that came with the regulator, were they nylon locking nuts ?

Thanks XI! That is the main reason i do it and possibly for a reminder for when the passenger side window blows out later! The nuts were regular steel nuts with star washers attached to them. INstructions said 3/16" rivets. But the OEM rivets are very specialized and the 3/16" rivets i had would not do the job. The kit nuts and bolts worked nicely.







This last picture: after you have drille in a bit and make a little headway, see if you can take the punch and hammer and pop the center rivet out the back. IF not, drill a little bit more and recheck. Eventually the center pin will weakened from continued drilling and it will pop out the back of the rivet and into the bottom of the door. The the rivet removal process will accerate an you'll soon have the rivet out the door way.

There are a couple things i didn't take pictures of. Duct tape the window all the way in the FULL UP position before removing rivets. Removal of door brace in the lower rear part of driver's door, plastic brackets that hold harness in place (these pop open with standard screwdriver) and plastic removal. I plan on re-using the plastic, so i removed it carefully w/o tearing it. Pulling at adhesive as close to door as possible and moving along as i go. After rivets are drilled out, WHERE THE CONNECTOR PLUGS IN, REMOVE THE GREEN TAB IN THE CONNECTOR WITH A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER (USE SCREWDRIVER AS A WEDGE AND PRY IT OUT). THIS TAB HELPS KEEP THE CONNECTOR IN PLACE, SO IT DOESN'T ACCIDENTALLY SLIP OUT. yOU'LL HAVE ANOTHER SIMILAR CONNECTOR IN THE REAR DOOR HOLE THAT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED ALSO TO MAKE SPACE FOR NEW REG. INSTALL LATER WHEN YOU REMOVE THE BRACE BAR THERE TOO.i put the hands through both door way holes and moved motor rearward to de-rail it from the sash channel to facilitate removal through lower rear door hole. What is important with the new window regulator and motor is to adjust the new motor to the same lift location (so it's in the same position as the old unit) as the old to speed installation , it aides ALIGNMENT OF BOLT HOLE/or rivet holes and no forced install..better make sure you have OEM rivets! (why i opted for the nuts and bolts instead). There are 2 line marks on the "pie gear" of the window arm. Line one of those marks like the old motor you pulled (you can connect w/ the door electrical connection and adjust the arm identical to the removed one. I spent a good 2 or 3? hours total on the job (most time was spent drilling the hard ass rivets out and with various DULL drill bit sizes...tedious!). The install was fairly quick....about an hour to install the window reg. assbly. in place.. It's a blind install for the back nuts and smaller bolts also included in the kit to mount window regulator. What helped cinch them down tight was a special flat non-ratcheting socket wrench I've used before when replacing my 3X crankshaft sensor. Fits in tight places....basically a flat bar with a socket attachment. Shuck's or Kragen's carry them. Also 11 mm box end /open end wrench as well as a small 1/4 ratchet / sockets...whatever works in the different mounting locations behind the door. So you'll be sticking your hands in like what you do with a sandblasting cabinet. Not too hard. Replacing the 3X sensor at the bottom of engine in middle and totally blind. That was a hassle! This job was not as hard as i thought it would be.

I took some pictures earlier of the front guide channel i believe(check first page). It's adjustable and there are two bolts. I had both bolts loosened. Book says you roll the window full down. FINGER tighten the upper nut. Lower nut is tightened to 53 inch lbs. (i have an adjustable inch/lb driver). Then rollup window to just 1" from top of sill. tighten top bolt to 53 inch lbs. Then check for up and down movement. readjust if binding.

All i have to do now is put the cosmetics back on (rubber interior rain guard/metal brace, trim, switch cover, door handle). My driver's side window works better than all the other windows.

I was told that a new regulator arm was over 200 new. The motor from kragen was only 40 bucks. So it's not a cheap install, but at least i saved a minimum of 100 dollars in labor. I got a cut a deal on a new OEM regulator arm for under 200. Since i used the driver's side window for fast food all the time, i NEED THis!!

So it's not too hard to do. Replacing my 3X crankshaft sensor and main crankshaft sensor was a pain in the a**.