Lancia Fulvia Zagato Daytona 1/24 gdetailfactory

[sjelic]

Hi to everybody, my first progress thread after... 6 years
Well since Alex is trying to boost us all a bit I decided to give my small contribution and also I promised Gio that I will build this beauty.

I am sure you all saw Gio's development thread on this kit so I will not go too much in review, just pure build.
If you didn't see it...http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul....php?t=1151173

So let's start.

First of all I admire the passion from Gio and willingness to make this in to final product, since it is full hand made and not mass production model I don't expect Tamiya fit or anything like that, this kind of kits need love and attention, this is why I love multimedia kits, you need to work on them to make them perfect.

Let's start, I took body first and put the hood on, since resin used is yellow one that is a bit brittle compared to gray or black one it is in many cases that flat things tend to go flat, especially if they are thin as front hood, no big deal, a bit of hot water, quick dip and bend it to desired shape





Next thing was that hood was a bit too narrow so I decided to add thin welding wire at the edges, put a lot of CA glue with that sand like accelerator (I will show you the process in next updates) and shaped it to fit tight









It is still not absolutely perfect but it will be in the end.
Then I got urge to try everything for fit and looks...like little kid when he can't decide what toy to take and play with it.
Again, this many parts and details in multimedia kit is not something you see very often, look at the engine and gearbox and I did't put any auxiliary parts on it, looks stunning already in primer.





Next thing is front suspension parts, again, full suspension is included, I tried dry fit, didn't even cleaned it well because I wanted to see how it looks and look at it, no single drop of glue, everything fits and stands on it's own.





Next part I wanted to check was front grill and mask, I was not sure if it will be easy to put it on and leave enough place for light covers, again...perfect fit.





A bit of putty is on just to eliminate PE to resin step

As you can see here, hood is still not sitting fully in place, this will be fixed with some putty and sanding.





And some primer on just to see if there is some glue leftover





All look good, a bit more reworking and it will fit nicely.

That's it for first post, since all things fit nicely and I don't need to do major surgery I think this one will go rather quick.

Again Gio....great kit.

And just to show with what kind of models I lose my time with





Thank you all for watching, next update soon.

Oh yes, sorry for iphone photos and being too big, I will shrink them next time

[360spider]

Looking great - excellent start!

[gionc]

WOW!!!! I think this is the first time I see something I created taking life.... I'm tuned! Sasa I sent you a message trough watsapp, please check

[sjelic]

Gio thank you for backup, you helped me a lot, some things are clear now.

So...let's continue.

I was still not satisfied with how hood was sitting on the body so I did a bit more expanding and correcting.

Here I would like to share my relatively new discovery of how to avoid putty.

I use this



I found it by chance and I love it, glue it self acts like normal super glue, it doesnt dry in bottle so you can even leave it open and it will not harden. It doesn't fog too much and it is not super quick like normal super glue.

The best part is this white sand, it is something like accelerator to make joint extra strong.

But enough talking let's put it in pictures



I took 0.5 welding wire and fixed it to the edge of the hood, after that I carefully filled the joint with glue, you can see it is wet at the joint.

Then you add this white sand





Just shake the excess of



and voila, instantly ready to sand and work on it, no curing time needed, no waiting, no messy brushes and lost nerves.

I have send it a bit and now fit is almost perfect



Also front part needed a bit fitting so this is done also, picture before and after



I still need to align everything a bit but now I am satisfied.

I have also started to check other things, like replacement for intake trumpets



After Gio's advice I also made some small adjustments to wheel arches, they suppose to be more round and have sealing gasket (for this I used 0.3 welding wire).

Before (or one side)



After (or other side)



And the gasket



That's it for now, I am currently working on engine and front suspension but haven't taken pictures, one advice for you guys that will build the kit, on instructions, it is not clearly shown how to assemble the front suspension to frame, I will show this in next update.

Thank you for watching.

[360spider]

Looks great.
The "gasket" maybe a bit too think - do you have a thinner gauge wire?

[sjelic]

Originally Posted by 360spider

Looks great.
The "gasket" maybe a bit too think - do you have a thinner gauge wire?

Yes you are right Alex, now when I look at the picture it does look a bit on thick side, in real you can't see it, I have 0.2 also, I will try.

[sjelic]

So let's move along.

First here is a shot of the real car (different race thou) but here you can clearly see that gasket on fender and even thou I switched to thinner one it is maybe still a bit too thick, hopeful with paint and clear on it will blend in a bit more.



Tamiya spray primer was used to cover the body, I find this best for resin since it sands good and etches well to resin, just be sure to wash the resin before, I use standard nitro thinner for this purpose, it is not safest one but does the job in the best way, use small amount and old tooth brush.



In the mean time I also made some progress on engine.







Only intake trumpets were replaced by electric cable end caps (I don't know the name of this things but you can buy them in electric supply store in different sizes and they work great for this application)

One thing regarding front chassis assembly, it is not fully clear how to assemble the suspension from instructions, so be careful, use Gio's thread as guide since you have it there all nicely made in 3D

Here is merge of engine and front chassis, all fits very well







And quick dry fit to the body, some trimming is needed on body to flush fit inside.



That's it for now, I have started on detailing the engine, adding wires and stuff to make it look more busy.

More to follow.

[360spider]

Looks excellent. Really like the engine valve cover - makes it pop!

[ssasho0]

This is shaping great and the Spit also looks fine

[sjelic]

Originally Posted by ssasho0

This is shaping great and the Spit also looks fine

Originally Posted by 360spider

Looks excellent. Really like the engine valve cover - makes it pop!

Thank you guys

[Niro750]

Wonderful work

[sjelic]

Originally Posted by Niro750

Wonderful work

Thanks


let's continue.

I need to emphasis again how well is fit and parts brake up on the kit, really good job Gio.

Body needed some paint on it, I always use Tamiya spray cans for primer, first coat of grey, sanding, fixing and then coat of white, light sanding and ready for paint.

In this case Steve aka Hiroboy made special Zero paint for this car by Gio's input, paint looks so cool and I think I might use it on some other cars since it is really strange one, not red, not orange, not metallic but also somehow not plain...looks nice....but...looking at the pictures of real car, it looks orange, like plain orange



so I added few drops of yellow, can be that this is mistake in the end but now I am not turning back.

Here is body with only paint on



and first coat of clear and test fitted to chassis, again, all fits good (no sanding or polishing made so far)








since I bought new 2K clear I was a bit afraid how will it act, it is automotive type that require no thinner (this is why I was skeptic).

The thing is I usually use Glasurit 2K and I thin it a lot, this way I get very thin layer of clear before decals, then when you put decals and few more coats, everything doesn't look so thick.

Now I am a bit afraid that when I put final coat it will be too much, since now it looks good and any more clear could be too much.

Never the less I tried to thin the clear even if it is not supposed to be and it was more or less ok, a bit more vapor was coming out of clear and creating spots that you need to sand out.

Anyhow...we always learn and need to try new things, otherwise, no progress.

Let's move to the engine, I wired it, put radiator, added ignition hose, some other pipes and hoses and tested again to the body and other parts and it fits. (sorry for dirty parts, I was sanding something close and did't clean it afterwards





That's it for now, next I will try to fit the windows...my worst part of every multimedia build....

[360spider]

Shaping up nicely!

[gionc]

Great job Sasa.
Don't worry with the windows: despite the housing would be be a bit deeper the fitting is perfect (at least in the models I built) just be careful aligning PE and acetates, like I wrote in my thread I reccomend to cut the acetate a little shorter (in the center of the PE width..) to avoid to see the acetate thickness under the PE. Doing the HF I deepened the PE housing and it would help...

[sjelic]

Originally Posted by gionc

Great job Sasa.
Don't worry with the windows: despite the housing would be be a bit deeper the fitting is perfect (at least in the models I built) just be careful aligning PE and acetates, like I wrote in my thread I reccomend to cut the acetate a little shorter (in the center of the PE width..) to avoid to see the acetate thickness under the PE. Doing the HF I deepened the PE housing and it would help...

Thanks Gio, tried to dry fit, all looks good, I deepen groves a bit so hopefully all goes well, I know it is not big issue but I really hate clear acetate