AF Machining Gallery

[MPWR]

Welcome to the AF machining forum gallery. This will be a place to share pics of work you've done with everyone- so that we can exchange ideas, inspirations, and techniques.

If you've made something you'd like to show, please do! Give us a pic (or a few pics) of the part and tell us a bit about it- what it is, what it's for, and any details you'd like to share.

If you see things here you'd like to know more about, ask how they were done, or comment about, please feel free to ask- but please do so in a new separate thread. Any related discussions to that part can be in that thread, and a link to the thread will be added to the gallery entry for that part (a mod will take care of this- and multiple threads on one gallery entry will be merged into one). This way we can keep all active discussions about people's work shown here, but keep this thread only for gallery postings. If you want to start a 'how did you do that' thread, mention the part and poster in the thread title. Ex- "How did you: GTmike400's 1/12 V8 crankshaft?"

So let's see what you've made! Doesn't matter how simple or complicated it is- remember, we all like to watch.

[MPWR]

This is a set of brakes I made for my 1/24 Ferrari 360.





The rotors were turned on the late to shape, and then the cross drilled holes were drilled with the part on the rotary table and a sensitive drilling attachment holding a #80 bit. Each rotor has 70 holes. I drilled the rotors two at a time (left side and right side) using the kit part as a pattern reference. The center hub was cut hollow in the back to hold the poly caps to retain the wheels. The brakes were made as a direct replacement for the kit parts, and fit on with no additional modifications.

[MPWR]

More 360 parts- this time the front and rear dampers.









Again the original plastic kit parts were used as a pattern, and the new parts were made as a direct replacement for the originals. Fortunately the dampers on this kit are non-structural, so they hold no weight. They could certainy be made to be weightbearing, but it's a bit easier not to.

Everything was made from 1/4" aluminum rod- the shock bodies turned on the lathe, and the mounting blocks were cut using miniature end mills.

[mike@af]

1/12 Crankcase and Crankshaft

The crankcase was machined out of resin, whereas the crankshaft was machined out of brass. The motor was going to be a Chevy ZZ502, and it was going to be a full detail motor (including valve train). I might as well do a quick FAQ for it too...since there seems to be a frequently asked question.

FAQ

Q: Will it run?
A: No it wont.

[MPWR]

More parts:







Rear dampers for my 1/24 Ferrari F50. These are the first scale machined parts I did. (Amazing that my cutting mat was once that clean.) Everything was turned on the lathe using the kit part as a pattern. The kit part was then cut apart and the damper mounts from it were used to mount the new parts.







These are brakes for a 1/24 Ferrari Testarossa. The shape was done on the lathe, but the mill and rotary table was used for the lug bolt pattern.





These are joiners to connect the Testarossa's exhaust manifolds to the resonator. (How to discussion here)

[cinqster]

I'll throw some pictures in - they're nothing particularly special but were the first parts I made last year when experimenting.



These are dashboard switches for the 1/8th Jag. I turned the stock down to the correct diameter them machined in a step for the domes. If I want a dome like this I then cut a small 45 degree bevel then 2 really small cuts at 30 and 60 degrees. I'm a bit of a cowboy and normally round the bevels off by hand though I don't recommend it! I'll use anything from jewellers files to bits of 6mm plywood with various grades of wet'n dry paper stuck on! I do lots of work like this and will often spin the work in worn wet'n dry to get rid off machine marks, and I spin the work in Autosovol soaked cotton to get a high polish - works for me. The ideal way would be to have curve notched cutting tools but I've not started grinding my own yet.



The switches were matched by eye as I couldn't get my digital calipers on the shoulder of the domes. I'll often stick the first finished part on double sided tape onto the top of the lathe (near the chuck) so I can match them as I go.

The gearknob was tricky and this was my third attempt. Ideally you need a ball cutter for the task but I had to try it anyway! After getting the ball diameter correct I did my trick of cutting 45, 30, 60 degree bevels again. Again, I rounded everything off with hand files - this is very dangerous so be warned!

If you are stupid enough to use hand tools like ths it's worth adding a cover over the lathe bed to protect it, just in case you slip! I use a piece of 10mm MDF board.

My eyes are getting old so I use a light with a magnifying lens built in hovered just over the work. Helps with the seeing and gives me more protection as well as the googles.



The gauge bezels were fun! I found that I can cut inner shoulders to about 4mm deep using ordinary square cutters on material over 10mm in diameter. The bezels are about 1.5mm thick so they can be very carefully parted off without distorting. I'll often flat sand on the backs of finished items like this on wetn'dry sheets to match the thicknesses saves trying to get it right on the lathe and removes any tearing that you may get from the parting tool.

[hakkfan]

OK, here goes. Right now all I have is a Sherline 4000 lathe, and a handful of accessories. Hopefully the mill column, vise, and rotary table are in the near future.

Rear spring perches and pulleys for Jeff Gordon Nascar......


Front and rear shocks.......(these also include RB Motion rod ends)




Dry sump oil tank.......


Top Fuel puke tank......


Pro Stock oil tank and breather tanks........


Mostly simple stuff to fill my specific needs so far, but eventually I want to keep practicing and try harder things. And get to milling.

ClayK

[Decs0105]

rear shocks for a 1/12 McLaren MP 4/6 turned on a mini lathe (These were the first parts I made for a model)

[gionc]

New and old stuff togheter:

Alpine Renault A442B rims, machined with PE spokes (2 X 0.3 mm plates)





Super7 shocks (they're thiiiiny)



and shock's oil reservoir (you'll see also some pulleye)



Super7 gear stcik and gauges



Super7 exaust (alu covered by CF decal)



Super7 rims: alu lips, resin spokes, PE ring



F360 CS shocks



F360CS pulleyes, CA compressor, alternator



F360CS water pump



F360CS extinguisher




F612 Scaglietti shocks



F612 brakes (machined+PE)



F348 brakes



F575 consolle

[mikemechanic]

A few things that I've made using my Taig lathe

FXX details items. Jacks, fire extinguisher, fuel brake and air valve for jacks.


FXX shock set.


Tuner style mufflers.


Here they are under a 300ZX


More to come as I get a little better on the lathe.

Mike

[Jamme]

Hello to Everybody,
I'm really new in machining. I own a MF70 Mill, with Rotary table
This is the first thing a made with.
OK, I understand you will laugh wit it, but as it was first time a used a mill, I founded it was marvelous.....
Those are the nuts for MFH 512S...


I'm now waiting for my ordered PD230/E Proxxon Lathe....
By the way, anybody gots an opinion on that lathe?

Thank you for creating this section!

Jamme

[Nino Furicchio]

Something from my own production: a orientable fitting with flexible pipe made using heat shrinking tube heated and reduced to a correct size as needed

[Nino Furicchio]

The pulleys for the fuel injection pump of the 935 turbo

[Nino Furicchio]

Four (of the six needed) tiny fittings for the fuel lines compared with the fuel injection pump

[MPWR]

Headlight reflectors (Ferrari F40):





Wastegate servo and oil filter (Ferrari F40):





Radiator filler cap:



Exhaust tips (Lancia 037):



Wheel conversion (Fujimi to Tamiya style mounting):



A small lathe really is the best way to do this!

Pedals and shiftgate (Ferrari 360, manual transmission):



Alternator:







Brake rotor and beer can!: