97 Chevy Blazer ignition and transmission problems

[Chels1416]

I have a 1997 chevy blazer 4.3l that is stuck in what seems like 3rd gear. It will drive all day but of course high rpms from being stuck in gear. We've changed the ignition wire harness and it fixed the problem for a while. Now the solenoid behind key switch is not engaging at all and it's stuck in gear and key is stuck unless you push the solenoid by hand of course. Does anyone know how to help me? I'm honestly tired of reading and troubleshooting.

[Blue Bowtie]

Can you manually shift the transmission through all its ranges?

[Tech II]

I think we are talking about two separate problems.....

As Blue suggested, manually start the car in 1st, then manually shift to second, and then shift to 4th or overdrive.....do the rpms drop after shifting in the first three gears, but stay high in 4th?

Your other problem seems to be you can't remove your key unless you manually depress the lock solenoid? that is usually caused by a broken wire in the harness to the BTSI solenoid in your shifter....

[John123john]

Just replaced bothe 1-2&2-3 shift solenoids. No issues until I went to start truck, turned the key and nothing. Like the battery is dead ( new battery ) Can't get the key to shut off.
Thinking that when I was putting the shift cable back on I moved the arm the cable clips onto I shifted gears.
Ideas?

[skypilot17]

Hi guys,

I have the definite answer to this one. It is NOT the trans or anything in it. Replace the electrical part of the key switch. Yeah, you read that right. The problem is caused by two bad electrical contacts in the key switch. GM actually had a recall on the switch but it did not come out until after I had the problem and figured it out.

I have had this problem and learned the hard way. The DTCs are wrong. Well, actually, they tell what they symptoms are (solenoids in the trans not working) but they don't say why. Yeah, it -could- actually be a solenoid, but not likely.

The electrical part of the switch is a rotary drum that makes contact with six carbon brushes. Yes, six contacts. Each one of the contacts distributes power to different parts of the car. Ignition and accessories (radio, etc) , starter, alternator, ABS, and two contacts for THE TRANSMISSION. When the trans contacts get worn, the trans gets no power, and the shift solenoids do not work at all, or they work sometimes when you randomly get a good contact, and the trans goes crazy. You usually get 1 and 4 but not 2 and 3. It depends on which of the two contacts in the key switch goes bad. Or both. Manually shifting will not work because you still need the solenoids. BTW, when the ignition contact goes bad, the starter cranks but the engine won't start. The really bad part about that contact, is that the engine dies at the most inopportune time. Like when you are at a stop light with 30 cars lined up behind you. Or just starting to pass someone. Arrgh. BTW, when the starter contact goes bad, you can turn on the ignition but not crank the engine and you get stuck someplace. And it's always either in 95 degree weather or in the pouring rain. With 2 little kids in the back seat. Been there.

NOTE: Power to EVERYTHING but the lights goes through the kay switch. A bad key switch can cause LOTS of problems that don't seem related, but they are.

OK, so, how to replace the key switch. It's not rocket science, folks, although it does require a few special tools.

First, go buy a new key switch. They cost about $108 and includes a 24 inch cable with a large connector that hooks to the electrical system under the dash. The cable is about 16 wires. Most auto parts stores stock them because they sell. This is a really common problem.

I recommend that you disconnect the battery first, so that you don't accidentaly trigger the air bag.

1. Remove the steering column covers. There are two screws underneath, and you have to pull out the steering column position lever. . To get the top part off, you turn the key to ON and poke a paper clip in the hole near the key to release the lock unit, which you pull out first, and then take off the top cover. Important. Leave the key in the lock. Repeat. LEAVE THE KEY IN THE LOCK.

2. Remove the bottom dash covers so you can get at the cable and connectors under the dash. It takes a 3/32 nut driver and a phillips screw driver to do this.

The connector is about 1 inch x 3 inches and is held to the connector uner the dash with 2 screws. Note that the connector is actually two parts. Take a good look when disconnecting them. Take a picture with your phone if needed. One part of the conector goes to the turn signal switch and one to the main electrical harness.

3. Remove the electrical part of the key switch from the steering column. It is mounted with two VERY small star head scews. It takes a special GM tool OR a General (brand) socket driver. You can get a set of them at any auto parts store. It's like a screwdriver with a socket instead of a bit. You can also buy a security bit set online. Comes with all kinds of special screw and nut drivers bits.

4. Remove the small key retainer solenoid that is hard-wired to the key switch. You turn it 1/4 turn to release it and then pull it out of the steering column. BTW, when the key switch is bad, this solenoid loses power and you can't take the key out of the lock.

5. Remove the switch box and cable from the steering columne.

6. Instell the tes switch box and the new solenoid. Replace the solenoid in the reverse direction as you did to remove it.

7. Route the cable down the steering column. Align the two parts of the connector on the cable with the under dash connector and push them together, then tighten the screws.

8. Remount the electrical part of the key switch and the lock solenoid.

9. Replace the steering column covers and the underdash cover.

10. Slide the key lock into the hole until it clicks. Turn the key to make sure it has engaged with the electrical part of the lock. If you turn it to start, you should feel the spring pressure and it will go back to the ON position.

11. Turn off the key and reconnect the battery.

12. And finally, test everything to make sure everything comes back on and that the trans shifs correctly now.

That'll be 2 cents please. You can email me that check.

- Skypilot. Yes, I am a pilot, and (surprise) female. I bet you were not expecting that. LOL.