1/8th Scratchbuild - Porsche RS60

[zitzit]

Hello!

Very impressive project! Will follow it carrefully!

COuld you explain how was scanned the 1/1 car?

Olivier.

[rrutherford]

Hi ,
great to see you fronting up for such a great subject, apart from the subject, which I think is a sweet looking car. ai will follow this for sure and welcome hints, :-)

I am building a 1:5 TZ350B GP racer '74 era and know what you are facing, lol. I will employ some of the new rapid prototyping as I do not posses a mill or decent lathe. A friend is doing the whole motor 4 me in 3D process.

Anyway keep up primed and drooling, wish some one has scans for the TZ or a RG500, hint lol.

Regards Rod.

[360spider]

Good luck! Very ambitious project, I'm tuned!

[aliburke]

a spectacular work...which aroused my...

[cyberkid]

Krickey, this will be one hell of a project! I'll be watching closely.
Could you elaborate (names, basic functions) on the programs/ techniques you used to '3d scan' and what programs you are using to resize etc etc..?

[cinqster]

Time for a quick update.

Firstly, thanks for the nice comments and wishes everyone - I'll come back and try to answer some of the questions later on.

This has probably been my most productive modelling day ever but the progress will slow from here onwards so the updates won't appear as often!

Managed to get all the major componants cut out of balsa today and tacked it all together - I'd forgotton how easy it is to get such a construction out of square!

Just hope the structure will take 2kg's of filler!

'Scuse the low light pics but I thought they showed the shape off nicely.

Originally Posted by lumpulus

Where the hell do you have access to a Rapid Prototyper?!?

There are quite a few companies around the UK offering such services (if you have the money to hire them) There was a guy on UK eBay last year offering one day hire for around £150. Most of the items that I've seen rapid prototyped still need final hand finishing anyway as the machine tools leaves parallel tracks on the objects surface.

Originally Posted by cyberkid

Could you elaborate (names, basic functions) on the programs/ techniques you used to '3d scan' and what programs you are using to resize etc etc..?

My pal that had the car scanned used these guys are they were very competitively priced. Their website gives a good insight into what's involved and the owner (who's been really helpful) is a model car fan too! He outputted printed cross-sections at 1/8th scale for me and full-size for my pal - he's geting an aluminium 1/1 car built using full size wooden formers! I scanned the prints and re-drew them in Illustrator 10 (this is non 3D vector based drawing software which allows you to output at any size)

www.central-scanning.co.uk


We've used 3D scanning services before for scanning cars for my work (not modelling related BTW) and they've been over 4x the price and usually the car has to be covered in talc for the scanner to read off the surface, that's not needed with this company.

Hope this all makes sense!

[zitzit]

Hello!

Your balsa buck itself deserves to be shown as is on the shelf!

It looks really good.

Why wouldn't you use PU foam can instead of filler for the general shape?
It's easy tu shape, and very lightweight. And the surface can be smoothed with a little amount of filler...

Sorry to ask that, but would you trade your drawings?

Thanks

Olivier.

[white97ex]

Originally Posted by zitzit

Hello!

Your balsa buck itself deserves to be shown as is on the shelf!

It looks really good.

Why wouldn't you use PU foam can instead of filler for the general shape?
It's easy tu shape, and very lightweight. And the surface can be smoothed with a little amount of filler...

Sorry to ask that, but would you trade your drawings?

Thanks

Olivier.

This is a great idea, possibly something like a marine foam? something that is light weight and can be poured in, it would also lend for a much lighter form.

[JELPSPEED]

Hey buddy

It´s nice to see that you´re on the track!!
I lost your email when I switched laptop last month, please keep in touch, I´m interested in your project, and good luck.

Best regards

[DarrenGR]

Wow! Unbelievable work on one of my favourite classics - I'm hooked and in for the long term. Another modelling masterclass!

I used eurothane foam years back when I was building scratch bodies - it's a bit messy to work with - lots of sandy dust, but it's light weight and responds well to resin and glassing. Easily cut and fabulous to mould. I'm sure I spelt it wrong and I have no idea where to get it from now - Dad used it a lot for his sculpting work and there was always plenty lying round the place.

I could ask him for more info next time I see him?

Can't wait for the next update. There is a company that make RSK replicas in the UK - used to be made by a company called GP - not sure about now though - maybe worth buying a kitcar mag to see if they're still advertising and maybe getting in touch for drawings?

Good luck and keep us posted!!

Darren

[cinqster]

Originally Posted by DarrenGR

There is a company that make RSK replicas in the UK - used to be made by a company called GP - not sure about now though - maybe worth buying a kitcar mag to see if they're still advertising and maybe getting in touch for drawings?

Darren

LOL Darren! Check out my profile!

The GP whilst being a lovely car is a long way from the true shape of a real RSK, and dimensionally way out (apart from the wheelbase) The company is also dormant at the moment.

Guys, the urathane foam sounds like a good idea but do you guys mean blocks of it or the spray can stuff? I'd be worried about tying to spray it into the former voids as it expands as it sets?

[KEFLON]

Hi great project!

As a suggestion and I think some1 already said. Instead of using bondo which will take time to set and be very heavy. Try geting hold of some blue foam which is used in the design industry its very easy to get hold off on the net, is very light and all u do it give a thin coat of filler or what ever to smooth it off. Blue foam is basicly modelling foam, high density so can be sanded to glass smoothness, fairly impact resistant light weight and will responce will to contact adhesives, filler and fiberglassing.

Just some thing to consider maybe.

[zitzit]

Originally Posted by cinqster

Guys, the urathane foam sounds like a good idea but do you guys mean blocks of it or the spray can stuff? I'd be worried about tying to spray it into the former voids as it expands as it sets?

THe can stuff could be helpfull. It's true that it expends very much, but as the "holes" seem to be free in at least one direction, it shouldn't stress the balsa buck. All you have to be carefull about is the foam qty you inject in each hole...

Hope it helps

Olivier.

[cinqster]

Guys, I've decided against filling all of the structure with foam as I need to get access to various parts of the buck as I go.

I'm going to use some unorthadox shaping methods so this will become clearer later. My next task is to make the brake cooling ducts at the front of the car. I'm going to make a male version of the hole first, place it in position and then fill around it . Sounds like a daft idea but it means I only master one hole - use it on both sides and the holes will be indentical. This is exactly the process I used on my 1/1 car so in theory it know it works!

[JELPSPEED]

Originally Posted by cinqster

Guys, I've decided against filling all of the structure with foam as I need to get access to various parts of the buck as I go.

I'm going to use some unorthadox shaping methods so this will become clearer later. My next task is to make the brake cooling ducts at the front of the car. I'm going to make a male version of the hole first, place it in position and then fill around it . Sounds like a daft idea but it means I only master one hole - use it on both sides and the holes will be indentical. This is exactly the process I used on my 1/1 car so in theory it know it works!

Hi John

I see you´re filling the structure with PU foam, be carefull if you´re planning to fill it with the foam that comes like in a spray bottle, because I used that in my scratch 1/4 ferrari and today after 6 years of making it, it can be really a pain in the .... if humidity changes in your workshop it can expand and brake all the layers, that´s what happened with my model, I tried to carv it and fill it with bondo or other things, and until today it keeps spanding and contracting, and braking the finish, will take some pictures and upload them in the night.
Best regards