1986 300 Zx specs needed

[ExTrEmEDrIfT]

yah that would suck tahst why i dont abuse mine--- too much lol still waiting for rebuild gunna come soon and mods when i do rebuild so itll be good

[longlivetheZ]

Aftermarket Headers...not that I know of...but I just took mine off and I IMMEDIATELY wanted to upgrade them. Good luck getting them off without pulling the engine...

Manual boost contollers are fine as long as you get a good ball and spring type...don't get a bleeder type because they tend to have mad boost creep/spike issues. You can get a good ball and spring type for ~20 bucks.

Intercooler: I recommend a custom job. Get a WRX intercooler...not very expensive and very compact. You can put them just about anywhere...trust me...it'll fit...I've seen it.

Wastegate CREATE the pressure? No...not really...the compressor creates the pressure. The wastegate just holds the pressure to a set limit at what point it opens a valve on the turbine side to prevent overspooling. Upgrading the WASTEGATE isn't very common...adding a boost controller is, though...what they do is FOOL the wastegate into staying shut longer. The reason your dude with the GN probably modded his waste gate cuz he was running an aftermarket turbo with an external wastegate. GN guys seem to like to put their wastegates on the intercooler side. I love Grand Nationals...el drool...ugly as sin but still...el drool. If I had to drive a domestic car, that'd be my first choice. I could explain the whole wastegate thing more and more and more and more but I'm not gunna ramble. If you'd like the full story, let me know.

OEM equipment designed to fail? Eh...oooooooook...???

Polished aluminum intakes and all that...kinda overkill...save your money. 10" K&N cone filter will flow more than our little 3.0L engines will ever need.

92rs = the biggest post whore ever...

VG30ET boost limits: The way I was going to set my Profec B-Spec II was like this...low boost - 10psi...normal use...high boost - 12.5psi...for an extra kick in the pants...overtake boost - 15psi...for very short bursts on cool days ONLY. Do NOT exceed 15psi. Past this point, the stock turbo loses efficiency and produces way more heat than anything else...and heat is bad. You can get away with the raised boost levels for a longer period of time with an intercooler but the 15psi is still the limit for the turbo. That used to be in the turbo FAQ on z31.com but then they changed it. It used to be one written by some dude that was doing exactly what I said above and all he had was a 10" cone filter, 3" exhaust and a boost controller. That site went completely to shit...the turbo FAQ got changed, the board is full of dick heads now...you can't even ask a question there anymore without getting torn down completely. I asked how to get the cam gears off the other day and just got a bunch of ass hole answers.

If anyone needs anything, let me know...I probably can answer it...stay away from that board.

[ExTrEmEDrIfT]

speaking of grand nationals i seen this video of this dyno it was the sickest freakin Gn i ever seen it was twin turbo -- turbos was sticking out the hood and then when it dynoed it was literally smoking tires once it hit it it was so damn awesome think it dynoed at like 947RWHP

anyone have this vid lemme know i want it again

[92rs25th]

Grand nationatls only have like 3.8 v-6s but produce - stock - like 440 + ftlbs of torque.

I'm not really being a post whore just really bored this late as too dark to do anything but be up and isomniated.

I got the come filter originally for a TBI cold air intake unit I ordered but my cown induction hood on my camaro wasn't big enough to clear the intake unit section.

I guess I'll just go with boost control and blow off for a while until I fully understand the depths of the turbo system and what I can and can not do to it before touching internals. anyways , i'm off to bed now - tired as hell , Thanks for all the info guys much appreciated.

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by 92rs25th

then from there the whole fuel pump thing. By the way which is really friggin easy to do since it's right there in the rear , middle of the car.

dont fool yourself....thats not the fuel pump, thats the fuel level sensor.

you have to drop the fuel tank to remove the fuel pump. so if it aint broken, dont attempt to fix it. its not exactly a 20 minute process.

and too add to everyones comments...i would go ahead and spend the extra money on a electronic boost controller. they can be mounted in the car so you can change the boost settings when ever you please. and they more advanced than manual boost controllers at keeping boost spikes down to a minimum.

[92rs25th]

I don't want to spend 500 dollars for a boost controller though

[longlivetheZ]

Boost controller: Go to eBay and find a search for a Greddy Profec B-Spec II. You can find one, new in the box (NIB), for under 300 bucks, shipped and it's probabbly the best, most straight-forward, simplest one out now. I would avoid all the fuzzy logic and highly computerized bullshit cuz it's usually just REALLY expensive and a bit overkill...in my oppinion...but I'm a bit of a purist about some things.

But...if you don't NEED an EBC, don't get one...just get a ball and spring type controller. Save the extra ~250 bucks for other stuff as the spring type will do what the EBC will do nearly as well. It would be nice to be able to adjust the boost from inside the car, though.

Anything you wanna know about the turbo as it relates to the Z31, lemme know man...I'll fill ya full of info...

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by 92rs25th

I don't want to spend 500 dollars for a boost controller though

yeah, like i said...if you really want to take your car and really tune it. i think the extra money would be a wise decision but if you are just looking for a cheap way to add alittle HP, by all means go for the manual bosot controller like LLTZ is talking about. he knows his stuff. i was just informing you of what 'i think' is a better investment.

[longlivetheZ]

Originally Posted by k3smostwanted

yeah, like i said...if you really want to take your car and really tune it. i think the extra money would be a wise decision but if you are just looking for a cheap way to add alittle HP, by all means go for the manual bosot controller like LLTZ is talking about. he knows his stuff. i was just informing you of what 'i think' is a better investment.

True. You do get a bit more control and convience with a EBC. But...for budget's sake...you can not BEAT the ball and spring type. They both do the same thing...just in different ways...and for MUCH different prices. For short term use, I'd go the ball and spring route (which I DID) because it's WAY cheaper, simpler and does the same thing...set it at 8-10 psi and cruise for a while and save money...then get your EBC. Doing it this way also saves you a bit of trouble cuz, when you get your EBC, you'll already have all the plumbing done...then you just gotta do the wiring and put the new parts in...cake.

[92rs25th]

Eh..I noticed something today , Why does my boost needle stay at like - 4 ?

When I turn on my car - But not start - it goes to like 0 but then when it starts it goes to -4 and when I'm pushign her hard at like 4500+ rpm , it doesn't move.
---O
-7 | 0 | 7+ , O = where needle stays.

[longlivetheZ]

Keep in mind that turbos are not only RPM dependant (like the inferior belt driven superchargers), but they're throttle dependant too. This is one of the reasons why turbos are superior to superchargers, as far as I'm concerned. To hell with belt driven superchargers. If you wanna know the pros and cons of S/C vs. Turbos, again...lemme know.

This said, you can be screamin along at 5500 rpms and actually have negative boost pressure (vaccume) if you're not on the gas...when you floor it, the needle should go up immediately.

In my 86T, my needle never went much past 0 either...I thought it was screwed up...then I realized something...it's measured in millimeters of mercury...not PSI. 700 mmHg (the "7" on your gauge) is really ~13.5psi...nearly the 15psi limit of the turbo. You only run ~5-6psi stock anyway, so it's not really gunna go much past the 0 anyway. Factor in that, over the course of nearly 20 years, it's probably lost a bit of calibration and you've explained why your shit looks a bit broken. It's all good man. Buy an aftermarket boost gauge measured in PSI and you'll appreciate the buy.

[92rs25th]

Awesome , Thanks for the info man , you've helped me out a ton.
I think I will get a boost gauge in psi that will fit in place of the stock one , it's round and deep and perfect for like a indiglo one or something O.o

I don't need a radio so I will put a aftermarket set up in there for water temp , oil pressure and temp and a volto meter it should fit perfect with a few screws and plastic peices then for the stoil oil psi and temp I think I will throw a air fuel gauge in there =D well , reverse the boost and air one , the boost one in place of oil / temp and a air fuel one in place of stock boost gauge. Sounds good right ? Heh.

Thanks again man , all your help is appreciated.

ps - Still haven't figured out the speedometer.

[92rs25th]

Eh , weird..I just started her back up after taking all the stuff off and putting her back together with clean parts and now there is a throttle lag..wtf like a deep moan before pick up..should I be concerned about this ?

[DeleriousZ]

uh what exactly did you take apart?

[92rs25th]

I just took off the tubes leading into the turbo , the cone filter and cleaned out their inners because they were greasey inside from the old filter ,it was originally blue but when I got the car the filter was black so I knew the tubes were gross and dirty.

Also could have been because I mashed when my car was cold O.o