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06-14-2005, 12:15 AM | #1 | |
AF Enthusiast
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she started right up then broke y???
Ok so i finaly got my hole car rebuilt put the stage 3 clutch in it and got it im my car for the first start up... i turned it over and like a charm started right up! so then i threw in all the coolent stuff and then let it idle for about 20 or 30 minuts then i decide to take it to get some new gas because the gas in it has been sitting for some time. It is not registered or anything i didnt even put the bumper back on it yet but i didnt care it is like 2 a.m. so i drive all the way to state streat to fill her up. i pulled in and with in 1 minute i had someone flip a bitch to find out if i have the vr-4 and i think that he was more excited about my car then i was. but any ways i keeped it under 3 grand the hole time the next day i went out to start her up she started great again but after idleing for about 5 minutes she just stoped so i went and cranked it over again and i hear a loud loud noise pop the hood to find out that i broke the timeing belt tensioner pully bolt!!!! how the hell could this happen?? it broke clean in two???? the nasty noise i heard was the timing belt slipping around the crank pully... so freaked out i pulled off my valve cover to find not one but all of my intake valves bent to hell! AHHHHH 7 miles thats it 7 fucking miles if any ones has any ideas of how the hell this happend please let me know.. thanks. Now on to my second finding... so out side today takeing off my heads so that i can do a valve job on them i take off all my intercooler pipeing and there is oil all over in them? then i pulled off my intake manifold and there was a bunch of oil? do i have a blow turbo? bad oil seal? what the hell? any ideas would help i really want to get this thing back out on the road!
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06-14-2005, 12:51 AM | #2 | |
AF Enthusiast
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Re: she started right up then broke y???
what all did you replace in the engine and how much did you reuse from the original. also what type of noise did you hear when you cranked it again.
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06-14-2005, 04:24 AM | #3 | |
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Re: she started right up then broke y???
Check the turbos for shaftplay...and did you get any smoke or the 'whine of death' turbos typically make?
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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06-14-2005, 02:42 PM | #4 | |
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Re: she started right up then broke y???
there is no shaft play at all not even a little... and the noise was just the belt slidding over the crank pully i replaced all pistons 2 rods crank valves already bearrings all gaskets
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06-14-2005, 03:08 PM | #5 | |
AF Enthusiast
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Re: she started right up then broke y???
did the car shut of as soon as you heard the sound
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06-14-2005, 03:11 PM | #6 | |
AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
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Re: she started right up then broke y???
it just shut off then when i cranked it over it made the sound so i poped the hood and had my friend crank it one more time so i could find out exactly what it was and it was the belt
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06-14-2005, 05:54 PM | #7 | |
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the oil seals in the turbo can go bad without giving shaft play. If you did have too much shaft play, as said above, you will hear a whine, but just cause you dont have shaft play doesnt mean your seals can go bad. Also, oil goes through the intake pipes through the ventilation system on a stock set up. Look at the hose that connects from the rear valve cover to the intake T-pipe. Some people use breather filters or an oil catch can. Now, i can't say that has anything to do with your heads going bad from the timing belt breaking, but for you to accumulate oil in your intake pipes, it has to be one of those two sources, either a bad seal in the compressor side of the turbo or ventilation problems.
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Daily Driver: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black 3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black Intake & Boost Controller so far 2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods |
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06-14-2005, 06:47 PM | #8 | |
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Re: she started right up then broke y???
mabey too much horse power for the tensioner pully? my bro replaced his on his built gst because the Machine shop said it would be to weak to hold up to the horse power.
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06-14-2005, 10:16 PM | #9 | ||
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Re: Re: she started right up then broke y???
Quote:
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Daily Driver: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black 3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black Intake & Boost Controller so far 2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods |
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06-15-2005, 12:14 AM | #10 | |
AF Enthusiast
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Re: she started right up then broke y???
ya, i already made the mistake of getting a cheap tensioner pulley, only to have it break on my 10K miles later. always buy the best tensioner pulley you can: its the cornerstone of your engine.
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93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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06-15-2005, 12:35 AM | #11 | |
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Thread starter
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that is the bolt that just broke clean in too. any ways about the hosre power its stock i mean its bored 20 over and it has a clutch but it was also idleing when it happend so i dont think that is it. the only thing that i can even think of is that some how maybe it slipped timing and then one valve hit the piston and stoped the cam from spinning but every thing else keeped trying to go wich would be putting a hell of a lot of pressure on the timming belt and posably breaking the bolt?? any ideas on that?
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