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Old 08-02-2006, 08:26 PM   #46
johnnymcbrown
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Re: DIY intake questions

I removed my intake manifold and there is severe pitting on the #1 and #2 ports. A new intake manifold cost about $600. , is there any way I can use my manifold? Someone said "fill it in with JB weld and the file it back down to flat". Another said "just put lots of silicone sealer to fill in the pitting with a new gasket. Any suggestion?
1997 K1500 Suburban
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:48 PM   #47
johnnymcbrown
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Re: DIY intake questions

On my 97 K1500, I have severe pitting on the front two ports. Did you notice any pitting on yours?
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Old 08-20-2006, 03:09 PM   #48
ofcstork
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Re: DIY intake questions

I had replaced my intake manifold gasket over a year ago. One problem that I had was with the heater hose where it connects to the manifold. The connection for the hose is a squeeze type connection with an o-ring on the end. I did not have the o-ring seated correctly and the coolant was running down along the the manifold to the rear. The leak was similar to the leak which caused me to replace the gasket in the first place. I thought that the manifold area was warped and I repulled the manifold. I reapplied the manifold and the prblem persisted. After pressurizing the cooling system I located the leak which was barely visible. I wasted alot of time for a minor error. On the postive side I got some extra practice and feel ready for the next gasket repair.
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:02 PM   #49
echo's dad
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Re: DIY intake questions

Hey guys...I work in a repair shop and thought I'd pass along my intake tips...you guys already have some really great stuff here for everyone doing it themselves. Hope this helps...We always replace the quick-connect heater hose connector...you don't have to remove the powersteering/A/C bracket...just remove the bolts and slide it back (there's 3 at the top and 2 under the ps pump)...we only use greenie scuff pads as an abrasive to clean the intake and heads...a lot of shop have abandoned the old 3M discs with air tool...use a scraper to get the big stuff but easy on the aluminum...it doesn't have to shine, just be smooth...to get the pass side wiring up and away, go under and remove the p/s switch connector, crank sensor connector, and there's also a ground...then all the wiring will go back. disconnect the fuel lines at the joint right in front of the firewall...leave the stubby lines in the intake. watch out for the o-rings when it goes back in. Please mark your distributor carefully...we usually mark (with a permanent) where the rotor is pointing to the intake...you can get it to point at #1 which can help...might be a good time to replace your cap and rotor while it's off...these caps have a high rate of failure...swing your a/c over to the passenger side...we use GM gaskets as they say they're redesigned...??? This repair doesn't have a whole lot of tricks...it's pretty straight forward. Cleaning and torquing the intake bolts is a must...locktite might help (blue if you're going to use it) You should take your truck to have the timing checked...can only be done with a scanner...you'll only get a check engine light if it's way off...it can still be off and be out of time.
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Old 10-10-2006, 01:17 PM   #50
Jerscarcare
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Re: DIY intake questions

Is there a trick to get the distributor to drop on the oil pump slot? I have the gears lined up and the rotor set correctly I just can not seem to get the distributor to drop down all the way. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
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Old 10-20-2006, 10:51 PM   #51
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Re: DIY intake questions

Here is a way to make re-install of the distributor much easier, but lots of care is needed prior to removal.

Warning: Make sure the engine is not cranked until after all removal/install steps are completed.

Removal Steps:
A) Use an exacto knife to scribe a thin line going from the distributor base on to the manifold. On mine, there was already a factory paint mark but I was afraid it would wash off when I cleaned the manifold.
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B) Remove the distributor cap and lightly turn the rotor clockwise (just enough to remove play) and scribe a line on the housing of the distributor adjacent to the contact that sticks out from the rotor. I put a little green paint on that line.
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C) Remove the distributor clamp bolt and carefully watch, as you raise up the distributor. As the gear at the end of the distributor shaft disengages, the rotor will rotate. Raise distributor slowly. When the rotor stops turning, scribe a line on the distributor housing ajacent to the new location the rotor contact is pointing at. I put a little red paint on this line.
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Re-install Steps:
(good to use a new gasket, sometimes they break leaving a little piece on manifold or distributor)
A) Make sure the rotor contact is pointing at the red scribe line AND make sure at the same time the line on the distributor base is pointing at the line on the manifold.
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B) Slowly lower the distributor, watch the rotor turn as the gear engages.
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C) The rotor contact terminal should rotate and point to the green scribe line on the distributor housing when the distributor is fully down.
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D) Snug the clamp bolt making sure the scribe line on manifold and distributor stay lined up.
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E) Slightly rotate the rotor clockwise to make sure play is removed, the rotor should be pointing to the green line.
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F) double-check that the scribe line on manifold and distributor stayed lined up. Fully tighten the clamp bolt.
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Note: If rotor contact is not pointing to the green scribe line, it means distributor is probably one gear tooth off. Go back to Step A of re-install and try again. This method worked correctly for me on my first try.
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Old 11-01-2006, 08:52 PM   #52
rhandwor
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Re: DIY intake questions

Are their any aftermarket aluminum intake manifolds for the 5.3L 2000 Silverado?
Thanks Richard
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:05 AM   #53
Jerscarcare
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Re: DIY intake questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhandwor
Are their any aftermarket aluminum intake manifolds for the 5.3L 2000 Silverado?
Thanks Richard

I went with the FelPro kit the cylinder side gaskets look like aluminum incased in the rubber gasket, Make sure you apply a nice bead of rtv sealer across the block and up the side just a bit... you will see a good reference on the gasket (tab) sit the gasket over the bead. Go thru several dry runs with the manifold, I had to remove the bracket and tie up the wires to get a good clearance. Another gottcha to watch out for is the injector body "O" cans slip down pretty easily when you place the plenum down.... the result is a vacuum leak (you'll notice it for sure).

Good luck!
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Old 11-03-2006, 12:06 PM   #54
rhandwor
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Re: DIY intake questions

Thanks for the reply mine is not leaking yet. I was looking for an aluminum intake. All I have been able to find require a blower around $2500.00 or a carburetor or which is not what I want.
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:44 PM   #55
Jerscarcare
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Re: DIY intake questions

Are you looking for an Aluminum upper intake manifold - sometimes I hear them called plenums..... Anyway I looked into a non plastic upper aka aluminum, what I found was the reason for the plastic vs aluminum is heat displacement. Becasue aluminum can get really hot this heated the air and caused for rough operation. So it doesn't surprise me that the switch would entail all that extra stuff.... Just go with a Nitro system
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Old 11-11-2006, 08:30 PM   #56
TEXAS-HOTROD
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Re: DIY intake questions

I have been replacing these intake gaskets for a long time as well. GM did revise their design with anti-crush buttons. The bad thing, it's the same plastic/o-ring design.
Felpro finally came out with an all new concept. Like stated earlier, it's an aluminum plate with bonded rubber. Seems like these will outlast the vehicle.

Echo's dad and Ron pretty much described all needed info.
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Old 11-11-2006, 09:33 PM   #57
rhandwor
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Re: DIY intake questions

I am really looking for an aluminum manifold to replace the plastic one. I finally found one for around $500.00 but really want a cheaper one. Mine isn't leaking yet.
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Old 12-16-2006, 03:47 PM   #58
jds1vette
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Re: DIY intake questions

Just replaced the infamous gaskets last week on 98 5.7 Silverado. Took about 6 hours. So far I put about 50 miles on her and haven't lost a drop.

A few tips.

Don't take off the AC bracket. I took off the pump(4 big bolts) leaving all the hoses connected. Loosen up the bracket bolts and gently pry forward. I had a good inch of movement, worked great.

I got my gasket from NAPA, they are Victor Reinz brand. I got a kit for about $70. The intake gaskets are great and have built in guide pins so you don't have to worry about slippage.

The distributor, I disconnected the wires and cap. Notice where the rotor is pointing. I use the clock method. When you pull it out it's going to move, that's it needs to be when you drop it back in. Had no problem there.

I really didn't have any major problems. I would suggest replacing the heater hose quick disconnect while you have it out. Mine broke off about a year ago. What some cheap metal. It was a job getting the broke off piece out.
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Old 01-07-2007, 08:54 PM   #59
oakster02461
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Re: DIY intake questions

If you do mess up with the distributor, you need to get the engine to TDC on the #1 cylinder.


Getting the engine to TDC on #1

Remove the sparkplug and have someone turn the engine clockwise w/a ratchet on the crankshaft. When you feel air coming out of the #1 sparkplug hole, you are on the compression stroke. Now you need to get the timing mark on the harmonic balancer to the 12 o'clock position


Setting up the distributor for installation

There is a small 1/4 inch slot/slit in the botton the distributor that is open all the way thru. It comes out in s little round piece that sticks out of the bottom the distributor base. You need to line the rotor tip up with this hole. You need to position the distributor the way it was when you removed it (the wires are coming out at 90 degrees relative to the crankshaft).


Installing the Distributor

Holding the distributor so when the cap is on, the wires are coming out from each side and the rotor is lined up with the slit, install the distributor in the engine. The rotor should turn as it goes into the engine and the rotor should end up lined up with a very small "8" that is embossed on the distributor.

Tighten down the distributor. If you happened to mark the orientation of the distributor, make sure it is still aligned.

This should at least get your truck running so you can get it to a shop w/a scan tool that can set things right for you.

I'd prefer not to go into detail regarding why/how I ended up having to use this method to get my Yukon running after the intake manifold gaskets. I just hope it helps someone else out.
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:37 PM   #60
builder4
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Re: DIY intake questions

This thread has been very helpful to me, but I still have a question, and wonder if anyone can help.
I have a 99 Tahoe, 117Kmiles, 5.7L engine and coolant has been disappearing (maybe a gallon over a three month period). There are no visible leaks. There does seem to be some tan/yellow froth on the inside of the oil filler cap and filler tube - indicating there may be some coolant in the oil. There is also a rust color on the threads of the oil filler cap. Oil on the dipstick seems normal but the oil level seems slightly high. Looking at the coolant reservoir as the truck warms up - I see no bubbles - indicating no combustion chamber air being forced back into the cooling system - but I don't know how likely it would be to see this even if there were a head gasket leak.
So I'm guessing I have an internal intake manifold leak, but how can I be sure it's not a head gasket problem?? I saw mention of a radiator leakdown test, But it seems like a intake manifold leak could also result in a leakdown problem.
Also, I had just replaced the plugs, wires etc and plugs all appeared fairly uniform - with a tan color. 6 of 8 had a slight brown crust on one side of the insulator but these had 70K plus miles on them.

Any advice on how I can identify which problem I have??
And how much should I worry about driving it in the mean time?
Thanks
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