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Old 10-24-2007, 02:01 AM   #1
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Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

Guys last discussion about re-build of cheap gears like chinese mini-lathe pushed me to though about. My decision from time was take the Einhell stuff like they done, tune-up a bit (plays adj.) and use it at death improoving the learning curve, than purchase something serious.

After I see the job done by ThyeSaint on the same gear I decided to take courage and unmount it, also to understand at well how it work.

All this after I done my best machining stuff: may be I can't do anything others LOL if you don't help me to rebuild it LOL

the ultimate (pre-die) stuff:





They aren't just a lip like in my S7 but a whole rim turned outside, inside and in both front and back side, first time I do it.

Ok come back to the sick guy: this is the situation now





Dunno know if I remember all, better I do the job quick.

Unmounting it I discovered some new adjusting screws to fix plays and finally I got the chance to see how work the longitudinal gear... hoping to achieve a better set-up.

The lathe is made in Germany, so it isn't a super-cheap Chinese tool (it cost approx 650 eur so approx 900 bucks) but I guess at Einhell they learned a lot talking of quick jobs....

I used it for approx 18 months now but I can't see any grease, just some protection "delivery oil".

Any advice about the cleaning solution? fuel, gas oil, mineral spirit? WD40? (I hate to use WD40 in the same room I spray 2K colors)

Any other advice is well accepted
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Old 10-24-2007, 09:47 AM   #2
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

Terrific Gio, great stuff. Exactly the kind of thing we want to see here.

What's the problem using WD-40 near 2K paint?

For cleanup, most of those options would probably work, but it would be easier (and probably safer) to use an automotive cleaner/degreaser. You should be able to get it in an auto parts store- it may come in a spray bottle, and it might smell like oranges or something- but it's great for this kind of cleaning.
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Old 10-24-2007, 10:06 AM   #3
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

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Originally Posted by MPWR
Terrific Gio, great stuff. Exactly the kind of thing we want to see here.

What's the problem using WD-40 near 2K paint?

For cleanup, most of those options would probably work, but it would be easier (and probably safer) to use an automotive cleaner/degreaser. You should be able to get it in an auto parts store- it may come in a spray bottle, and it might smell like oranges or something- but it's great for this kind of cleaning.
Thanks a lot Andy. I found on Minilathe's site a guide to tune-up the beast... hoping to be able to re mount it LOL

WD40> 2K clears don't love silicone (also particles in the air due to the use of releasing agent casting resin or lubricant), I started to win my battle against 2K clear few months after I cleaned/WD40dded (LOL) my RC cars in the same place I paint.... to me not only a coincidence. True I changed airbrush and few other stuff, but I forgot the trouble I had at the first attempts with 2k stuff

EDIT> PS: spoke's part is PE
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Old 10-24-2007, 11:21 AM   #4
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

PREFACE: I'm not showing the following operations becouse I'm expert: not, I'm not expert in machining stuff: I'm sharing them hoping in your help, and I'm (approx.) following info you'll find in the Minilathe site.

The cross slide: degreased and cleand, before add grease (BTW I found nothing done from teh factory..) I lapped a bit sliding surfaces (outlined): the sliding is better now and I haven't lubricated jet...




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Old 10-24-2007, 02:45 PM   #5
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

Nice info G'man and good advice about paint and silicone - the stuff will eventually creep all over a workshop given time!

Yours is definately made in the Chinese factory (the yellow paint inside is a dead give away) I'd guess it may have been assembled/re-assembled in Germany?

I used methelated spirit to clean my lathe up (no idea what it would be called in Italian) but it's purple. After clean up I spread synthetic motor oil over all the ways and I leave it coated in it if it's out of action for a while (damp garage) It's also worth spraying a good teflon lubricant into the bearing/gear housing too. You need to remove the 4 electrical earthing screws to spray the stuff through the holes - unless you want to totally strip the head down - NO!!! IIRC, there's a how-to on the mini-lathe website.

I read recently about another tweak which is to replace the headstock bearings for taper roller bearings but you need another lathe to machine down the existing plastic spacer! I'm in no hurry to do it though as I rarely get tool chatter, which is what it's supposed to reduce.

I've mentioned it before but really take your time adjusting the two allen bolts that hold the cross slide nut in place. The nut is very soft (bronze) and the threads can strip out easily, so it's worth getting a spare one. After some time of playing with the 2 adjustment bolts the slack/play can be removed - individually adjusting the bolts will tilt the nut out of alingment with the cross slide screw - this gets rid of the play, but you have to make sure it's not too tight across the full screw length - that's where the real fun begins!

Good luck!
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Old 10-25-2007, 01:46 AM   #6
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

Quote:
Originally Posted by cinqster
Yours is definately made in the Chinese factory (the yellow paint inside is a dead give away) I'd guess it may have been assembled/re-assembled in Germany?
Yep I realized when I had parts in hand: they're exactly like the parts explained in the minilathe pages: I guess they're a bit tuned, I feel some parts much better, may be they're machined then.

Thanks a lot for the advices: I guessed I can finish the job in few hours but I'm taking it serious LOL and enjoing the learning , no hurry
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Old 10-26-2007, 10:11 AM   #7
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

Great job Gio!!! Thanks for taking the time and showing everything...
As you know I have the same lathe and you really have to take these mini lathes apart to see why there is so much play etc...

After you've done that you really understand how to use all the "setup screws" and that gives you a way better feel for the whole machine.

I used WD-40 to clean everything and I used it near my paintbooth but never had a problem luckily... I guess I need to change that


Quote:
Originally Posted by gionc
Yep I realized when I had parts in hand: they're exactly like the parts explained in the minilathe pages: I guess they're a bit tuned, I feel some parts much better, may be they're machined then.

Thanks a lot for the advices: I guessed I can finish the job in few hours but I'm taking it serious LOL and enjoing the learning , no hurry
I don't think they machined anything by themselves, they just attached the Einhell Label... Maybe they paid some attention to the safety switch and electronics because the whole electronic unit is safe for metal chips and stuff. The mini lathe site shows one if the very first version of the lathe I think (but in the reviews theres one Hornier that looks really close to the Einhell CLICK), so maybe the "better" quality and changes are made right in the factory for "our" newer versions...

Ok I'm going to the workshop now to make some parts for the Aston DBR-9

Last edited by Decs0105; 08-30-2008 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 10-26-2007, 11:16 AM   #8
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

I guess you're right Thesaint: those Hornet stuff is exactly the same.... great price you found: I paid 500 (naked, no tools etc.) as alimited offer (but not delivery exp. luckily ) , now it cost more.

The first trouble: is not so easy set the play behind the cross-slide and the rails: simply you can't access to the "setup screws" with the slide on the rails: the only way I found is adjust better than you can and mount it on the rails: after some attempts I have ever a bit of play (or I can't move-mount).... hoping it wouldn't do mess in drilling operations...





Well guys: this is what we call "fitting test"



(dunno used tack or white glue BTW LOL) all is clean WD40nted (away from the workbench ) and greased now, and at least I haven't screws left: this is jet a good result LOL, now let me play with gib screws

can't wait to switch it on
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Old 10-26-2007, 12:22 PM   #9
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

I'm an a$$hole: the solution wasn't so hard to find: you need just to remove the back panel.

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Old 10-26-2007, 12:36 PM   #10
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

PS: re-building the cross slide pay attention there: I lost some time trying to adjust the brass cube height becose I used wrong screws, in fact stroked screws have the same thread but the cranck one are longer!!!!! Don't make the mess I done

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Old 10-27-2007, 02:47 AM   #11
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

I realized that in my lathe is impossible to set at minimum the play between the cross slide and the rails on the whole rail's length: insthead to find an average set up I opted for a fine setting for the first 300mm, so I have 200 working mm with a perfect sliding and no play (before the re build I had a lot, note that I found unscrewed all screws...), anyway I guess I need to check this set up off and on...

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Old 10-27-2007, 03:26 AM   #12
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

Guys, two things:

-1 I'm sorry I confused in a couple steps SADDLE with the CROSS SLIDE: saddle is those mounted right on the rails, cross slide is the part over, that allow transversal movements.

-2 GUYYYYSSSS: I'M IN LOVE WITH THE LATHE NOW: AFTER SADDLE ADJ. THE MOVEMENT WITH THE MANUAL HANDYWHEEL IS JUST.... SUPERB..., NO GAPS, SIMPLY THOSE I EVER EXPECTED.... MY GOD IS A WHOLE ANOTHER MACHINE NOW!!
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Old 10-27-2007, 03:41 AM   #13
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

Quote:
Originally Posted by gionc
... (before the re build I had a lot, note that I found unscrewed all screws...), anyway I guess I need to check this set up off and on...
use a little drop of loctite (the blue stuff) that saves you the trouble to tighten them every two weeks. There's also a set of new adj. scews (from littlemachineshop) I bought it and I'm more than happy because as you may saw some of these chinese screws are not comperable to what we europeans or americans are used to !


Quote:
Originally Posted by gionc
...
-2 GUYYYYSSSS: I'M IN LOVE WITH THE LATHE NOW: AFTER SADDLE ADJ. THE MOVEMENT WITH THE MANUAL HANDYWHEEL IS JUST.... SUPERB..., NO GAPS, SIMPLY THOSE I EVER EXPECTED.... MY GOD IS A WHOLE ANOTHER MACHINE NOW!!
I felt the same way, I just made one attempt on the "out-of-the-box" setup and gave up. It's simply another machine after a re-build
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Old 10-27-2007, 11:55 AM   #14
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Re: Re-build (WIP) of a Einhell MTB-3000

Thanks for all the info Dennis.

The job is done and I'm quite pleased, first I have yet the lathe (I wasn't so sure when I seen all the spare pieces) but more it's much better now: removing plays allow to achieve a fine job and I have less vibrations too... anyway at least the impression is those of a better stuff.

First hot parts on the desktop: I think I'll achieve a better finishing now with less plays and vibrations, and enjoy the job a lot more. Thanks guys for comments and helps you offered.

Renault Alpine 442B rim, machined in all 4 sides: outside, inside, front and back



A disc, near the ventilated PEtched one (don't care about the rough surface, was the first time I etched something thick and I have already a 0.1mm disc to glue on)

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Old 10-29-2007, 04:42 PM   #15
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Some additional links on how to tune up your Mini-Lathe

As a Mini Lathe owner now for several years, I am finally taking the time to tune up my lathe now that I have more time to use it. Here are three links that may be of interest.

1. This is probably the extreme in what you may want to do but it does make for interesting reading.

http://www.kahale-martinapmachine.net/index.html

2. Here is a link to making tapered saddle gibbs by Rick Kruger.

http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty...redSaddleGibs/

3. The third link also by Rick Kruger and one that I am currently doing is titled Inconsistent Bedway Dimension. I am not finished yet but I can already feel the difference.

http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty...s/Bedways.html

Best regards,

Larry
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