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10-07-2002, 07:54 PM | #1 | |
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Beginner help....
Hello I recently ordered a model, the Tamiya Skyline the R33. I have experience in modelling in general but I have some questions related more specifically toward car modelling.
My Questions... 1. How do I get rid of the excess spur after I clip a piece off of a metallic tree and a clear tree??? Do I sand it like a normal piece and how much grit do I need for sand paper. 2. How do I get that bright shine that can be seen on primera man's yellow primera?? Is that just a gloss coat or what??/ Thanks |
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10-07-2002, 08:33 PM | #2 | |
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1.) Not much you can do about that with sanding, try using an X-Acto knife to cut it off, or side clippers. Sanding on a clear surface might cloud the clear surface with scratches if you're not careful, and sanding the metalized finishes will produce undesirable scratches.
2.) Practice, technique, polish, magic, divine intervention, a vigilant Kiwi bot, who knows? Everybody on here is searching for the secret that only P-man knows |
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10-08-2002, 03:00 AM | #4 | |
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Buy yourself a set of needle files, the various shapes make them perfect. THen smooth out th escratches with 800 grade wet and dry and some warm soapy water before priming and painting.
As for P-Man, he is just a git! Though following his painting advice will give some great results! |
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10-08-2002, 06:09 AM | #5 | ||
"P-Man"
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Quote:
To answer your question 2.....(I've posted this in other place's but cant find the link at present)...This is the way i do all mine. Everybody has ther own ways of doing things...it's just a matter of working out what works best for you. P.S I think the yellow one you mean is a EVO7 Make sure you sand the car well...removing molding lines etc. Start with 600, then 800 then 1000 and finish off the whole car with 1200 grit paper. Once you have finished removing the molding lines and sanding the body, give it a good wash in hot soapy water, then finally wash the whole car with hot water straight from the tap....using a good soft brush to get into all parts of the body. This gets rid of all the small sanding particles left on the body Once you have done this, shake as much water off the car as you can, then using your soft brush, brush all the water off the car so it dont dry in "spots" on the body. Once you have done this, you want to keep the car as clean as possible from dust. Place the body straight into a plastic container with a lid to stop any crap getting into the box and onto the car. This is AS CLEAN as you will get it and you want to keep it like it !! See pic.... I put a tooth pick under the lid just so that it can "breath" a little as it dries. Leave the car to dry for awhile. A good day is how long i leave mine. IMO this is so important as there is so much crap floating around in the air, and it lands on your model....SO KEEP IT CLEAN !! After a day or two, take the body out ready for painting. Attach it to your painting frame and give it a final brush and a good blow. Spray the primmer on. In between coats i put it straight into the microwave as this is a great DUST FREE place....this is were i think alot of people muck up as they leave it in the room to dry....but as its drying its also attracting the very small dust particles.....this is what is giving you alot of paint finishes that are "rough" looking....because the dust is being trapped under the paint. Before painting, heat the can up in hot water for 10 minutes so it flows better from the can. 2 Coats of white primer. First coat very light, the second so that it covers the model. Dont be to fussy if it still looks a bit "see-though" Leave for a week to harden the primmer. The Finish Coat 3-4 Coats of finish coat about 5-10 minutes apart....thats it...nice a simple.(keep the can warm) The first coat is a very light mist coat...the paint should only just be landing on the car. Do the same for the second coat The third coat you can spray a bit more heavy. The last coat is the one you want to get perfect. I always spray the front and rear bumpers first...then both sides along the whole length of the car body. Then the last bit i do is the bonnet/boot and roof last Dont bother sanding between coats as i dont really see the point...all you are doing is making more dust and removing half the paint you have just stick on. After you have finished the last coat...leave for 10-12 days.......rub with some compound then finish with a wax. After one day....leave the car in the sun or a warm place to harded the paint untill you polish it up.
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Current Build.....1/12 Scale Camaro......Almost finished!!! View All My Models Here. |
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10-08-2002, 06:34 AM | #6 | |
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P-Man: Dude, CHEERS!!!
I am definately printing out this one! And if that is your toothpick, you must have HUGE teeth. lol, when ever I read P-Mans posts, I hear Yoda's voice reading them out
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-Holden Berlina Turbo, RB30ET. -Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 Last edited by Jonno; 10-08-2002 at 08:47 AM. |
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10-08-2002, 10:58 PM | #7 | ||
"P-Man"
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Quote:
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Current Build.....1/12 Scale Camaro......Almost finished!!! View All My Models Here. |
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10-09-2002, 08:13 PM | #8 | |
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Your tips are very details........thanks P-man.
"First coat very light, the second so that it covers the model. Dont be to fussy if it still looks a bit "see-though" Leave for a week to harden the primmer. " I have a question: When there is really see-though, should just let it be? If gonna paint light color, would the "see-though" be a problem? if it does, having one more primer coat would be ok???? |
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10-09-2002, 09:03 PM | #9 | ||
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Quote:
It may be a problem, what colour primer and what colour paint are you using?
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-Holden Berlina Turbo, RB30ET. -Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 |
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10-10-2002, 12:57 AM | #10 | |
"P-Man"
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If you think it really needs one...give it another
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Current Build.....1/12 Scale Camaro......Almost finished!!! View All My Models Here. |
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