1982 300cd turbo diesel

[caviterruptor]

I recently purchased the above mentioned car with 225,000 miles & have a few questions:

1. Are the back windows supposed to go down as far as the fronts?

2. Where do I look to diagnose dash light failure? (fuses are ok)

3. As above for fog lights?

4. As above for trunk lights?

5. As above for windshield washer?

6. Anyone ever heard of the power brakes working only intermitantly?

7. How about turnig off ignition, removing key, & she's still running?

While this list might lead one to believe the contrary, this is a beautiful car that runs strong & rides beautifully. I want to make her 100% operational.

[caviterruptor]

test

[caviterruptor]

I'm new to this forum business & not sure what I'm doing.

[podunk]

i am not famiallar enough with "CD" body to answer #1

as for the dash lights, many times the dimmer knob is so dirty that the circut is cut off, contact cleaner can sometimes solve this if the devise is not just plain wore out
also the fact that u have so many light problems tells me a possible "Common" hot wire could be missing

as for the fog lites make sure u r using the correct switch (!! no i am not saying u r stupid !!!) some times on these older cars a crafty mechanic may have added a toggel switch some where instead of buying oem parts
also with all of your light problems make sure all of the bulbs are good taking them out and testing them and making sure that the sockets are clean and not corrosion filled

the last one is too easy the power brakes and the fuel shut off are both vacume related , either u have a tremendious vacume leak or the pump is bad if the pump is the problem dont run out and buy a new one $225.00 simply replace the 3 one way valves putting them in the same way they come out for about $38.00 they r the same valves inside the MB diesel oil pump

i hope this helps

[caviterruptor]

Podunk,

Thanks for the info.

You're batting 1000:

1. Ijoggled the dimmer swith to get dash lites.

2. Pulled the lite dial to get fog lights (maybe I am stupid)

3. Vacuum appears to be causing my brake & post ignition woes.

I see one of the check valves you referred to & will search & replace others as needed.

Are you familiar with how one tests the vacuum pump?

Thanks for your the insight!

C

[podunk]

Dang !! i never did that before!! I'm glad to help

but i may have mis led u , the check valves i speak of are inside of the vacume pump , this devise is located on the front of the engine, and has a steel line leading to the brake booster pod
in about the middle of the line it "TEES" off to other vacume controlled devises
here u can disconnect or isolate the main line comming from the vacume pump and test with a vacume guage or if u do not have a guage
with the engine running, put your thumb over the line. your thumb should INSTANTLY be suckked stuck to the line by the vacume (it will not hurt i promise) after letting your thumb be thouroly stuck then kill the engine and your thumb should remain very stuck for at least 1 min. if it does not then u should remove the front cover from the pump and change the 3 check valves. do this quickly so that the rubber gasket does not shrink when air hits it

This vacume system looks confusing and complicated but just stare at it for a while and the simplicity of it will hit u

even the power door locks are totally vacume operated and can be a place to search for a leak

[podunk]

i for got to ask !sorry!
is the "CD" body a wagon ?? sedan ??

[caviterruptor]

Thanks for your follow-up.

I found a leak between the master brake cylinder & the vacuum booster.

I'll replace the ring seal there & we'll see.

CD=Coupe Diesel.

Feast your eyes...

[caviterruptor]

Sorry, picture fike too big.

[podunk]

Coupe oooooooo ok cool

replace the seal ?? heck u are areal mechanic !! he he he
i would wrap it with black electrical tape , un like atmospheric pressure which would blow the tape off , vacume on the other hand will suck the tape down for an exellent seal , yet it is only a temperary fix.

i will ask my mb guru buddy about the back windows
c ya

[j_hef]

sorry I'm a little late with this (I have the same year and model), some have already been answered but here goes:

1. Are the back windows supposed to go down as far as the fronts?
rears shouldgo almost all the way down (inch or less showing), mine dont work either, your motors may be ok, but most likely its the regulators. Theyre a pain in the ass, hence why mine still dont work, maybe next summer

2. Where do I look to diagnose dash light failure? (fuses are ok)
Instead of wasting money on a new dash pot, or cleaner, take two old brake sensor wires, cut the head off and solder them together, take the dimmer switch out and plug the jumper onto the pins now exposed.

3. As above for fog lights?
i see you got these working

4. As above for trunk lights?
check the bulbs, then for power, then your ground, you may have rust at the ground point.

5. As above for windshield washer?
does the motor run? if yes, unplug the washer line before the check valve (on the hood). if no, check for voltage and/or replace the pump motor.

6. Anyone ever heard of the power brakes working only intermitantly?
vacuum problems, fun!

7. How about turnig off ignition, removing key, & she's still running?
because of the brake situation, probably the pump itself, or booster leaking. after this is fixed and if the problem is still there, plug off the solid yellow line through the firewall- thats the door locks, if nothing still, plug off the green line- thats to the a/c system, vents, etc. if that doesnt do it, detach the brown line to the shutoff valve (on the back of the injection pump, and with the motor running, suck on the line to the shutoff valve, if that doesnt turn the motor off, the valve is bad.

feel free to drop any more questions you have. You can see my car at http://members.cardomain.com/82dieselcoupe

ps- TD was the wagon