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Old 08-03-2001, 07:06 PM   #16
warmonger
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The problem is where to mount the batteries. Space under the hood is at a premium on an Xterra and Frontier. They just didn't leave enough room to mount a spare battery. The TJ kit mounts under the hood by replacing the factory battery box. The Nissan box is welded in place. If you have an XE, you are better off than those of us with SEs, but not a whole lot. I had to relocate mine to the position they are in because of the size of the compressor I planned on using. Others may not have to worry about that, but they will be breaking new ground. Hopefully they post some info about it on the Internet. Mine was so complex, I just didn't feel like patching the whole 2 month process together. Not to mention the fact that due to the complexities of my creation, I wasn't comfortable saying others could emulate it. You would have to have an above average mechanical and electrical ability as well as a service manual and the patience of Job.
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Old 09-11-2001, 12:49 AM   #17
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I bring this thread back to life to prove...it can be done. :)





About two full days of installation work...mainly figuring stuff out. Cutting the cables and crimping & soldering the ends took a good while as well.

Not that they'll ever see it, but the folks at WranglerNW, and especially the friendly guys at the local Batteries Plus helped me out a good bit. My favorite part was the little "positive" and "negative" labeled heatshrinks Stan @ WranglerNW added to my order.

If I can't come up w/ a better securing method than zipties soon, I'll make the hike up to one of those friendly folks who live north of me who own lots of tools and have a knack for fabrication...I have an idea for a replacement tray that could be fabricated in case anyone else ever does this mod.
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Old 09-11-2001, 01:24 PM   #18
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I think that getting some fab'ed up would be the best bet in the long run.
This is something that will have to last a long time and take a bit of abuse (I have seen the pics )

I just cannot wait for the write up so I can add this to my X
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Old 12-28-2002, 04:05 PM   #19
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Inspired by these pictures, I got a second battery jammed into my
Xterra this weekend. I had to re-locate the coolant overflow tank, rotate the existing battery 90 degrees, and lift some some sheet metal so it could slide as far into the corner as possible. Then the Optima Yellowtop slid in pretty easily, albeit vertically. I'd already wired for a 500W power inverter which is located under the passenger seat. I even put a standard wall outlet in on the back of the center console. Now that I've got the 2nd battery, I'll have to order a Hellroaring battery isolater -- turning out to be a fairly expensive project!
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Old 12-28-2002, 08:00 PM   #20
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Sounds like quite the project. Got any pics? I know lots of people that want to figure out how to do this but just can't find room.
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Old 01-14-2003, 12:03 AM   #21
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Xterra / Yellowtop

Here's a picture -- looks very similar to the previous one! I've since installed a Hellroaring isolator. So far, so good! If anyone has questions, send me a note.
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Old 01-14-2003, 12:31 AM   #22
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Nice. I'll have to look in my engine compartment for a before view.

Have you considered joining PNWX?
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Old 01-29-2003, 08:24 PM   #23
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im not sure if anyone has suggested this before but couldnt you replace the glove compartment with a second battery?

probly a stupid idea, but being 16 im new to this stuff...

by the way- what is a second battery for?
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Old 01-29-2003, 09:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by killer4605
im not sure if anyone has suggested this before but couldnt you replace the glove compartment with a second battery?

probly a stupid idea, but being 16 im new to this stuff...

by the way- what is a second battery for?
Uhhh open the glove box! Then look what is behind it!
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Old 08-03-2003, 10:59 PM   #25
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DVM

I got one of these really cool DVM's from Datel, about $30. It monitors the voltage on the second battery I installed. The really cool thing is I found it's an exact fit for that empty switch next to the rear wiper button!!!! Part Number DMS-20LCD-0-DCM
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Old 08-03-2003, 11:34 PM   #26
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Cool Easier to read

I like this for my voltage and oil pressure, easier to see at a glance. The lower one is voltage.
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Old 05-12-2004, 03:55 PM   #27
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Dual Battery Woes


I've got two batteries in my car, connected together with a Hellroaring battery isolator. One battery is a standard car battery. The other, isolated battery is an Optima Yellowtop. While the car is running, the alternator,both batteries and all the loads are all tied together. When the car is off, the isolator seperates the deep cycle battery and the loads connected to it from the car's starting battery.

Connected to this second battery is a computer which draw about 3 amps at 12 V. My 'carputer' is in standby mode most of the time, except while driving, and perhaps 20 minutes each day when it's running off of the isolated battery.

My problem: After about 4-5 months of operation, the Yellowtop has a dramatically reduced capacity, and drops below 11 volts after just a short time (20 minutes) of use with the car off.

Any ideas on my problem? I've actually had this problem occur twice now. The first time I thought it was just a bad battery.
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Old 05-24-2004, 01:47 PM   #28
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Re: Dual batteries and optima weight stuff.

Someone posted this on another forum.....

The Optima Yellow top battery is a Deep Cycle battery. These batteries are designed to be charged then discharged. These batteries use a thinker plate and thinner Active Paste layer than your standard automotive Optima. Each time you charge the battery, you consume some of the paste.

Now, in a situation like a camper or other system where the battery is fully charged than used as a power reservoir, you consume a small amount of this paste during your charge cycle and a little during your discharge. Usually this is done "not so often" so this paste lasts a decent amount of time.

In a car, your battery is in charge mode whenever your car is running. I know there are regulators and what not, but trust me, your car is constantly charging your batteries. During this charge cycle, you are consuming this paste layer. And since this paste layer is much thinner (with thicker plates) than the standard automotive Optima, you have a much shorter life cycle with your battery.

Sure, the capacity is attractive, but you will suffer with a shorter life. I have always ran standard automotive optimas and never had a problem. If you do want some extra capacity, use the Blue Top Optima. It is designed better for continous charging.
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:02 AM   #29
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3 amps is an excesive draw in the automotive industry and no battery will hold up to that type of constant draw usually, especially after the engine is turned off (20 minutes????). I have dual batteries in mine (a Red and Yellow top) that have seen constant use for almost 3 years with only an isolator failure to lay claim to. The secondary battery runs my winch, my on-board air system and aux lights. You might want to take a close look at your electrical system and if that 3 amp draw is all that is causing your problem, set a shut-off for it after the engine is turned off. A blue top will last longer, but is going to also suffer from shorter life courtesy of your excessive draw.
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Old 05-25-2004, 12:06 PM   #30
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Blue tops and Yellow tops have exactly the same performance. The only difference is the post style. Oh and one is Blue and the other is Yellow.
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