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Old 05-29-2017, 09:02 AM   #1
12Ounce
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Front Engine Mount

Failure on front engine mount, 1999 3.8L.

(Someone else has already written of this problem, but I now can't find their posting)

The welding seems to be insufficient in length on the replacement Anchor #2931. If/when the weld breaks, the engine is free to lift upwards ... this can develop into a very dangerous situation!

I am going to return the broken part to Advance Auto and make a case for some corrective action. I don't know what to expect.
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Old 06-03-2017, 10:29 AM   #2
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Re: Front Engine Mount

Let us know what you come up with........they are not supposed to do that.
That is the part number that I come up with on Rockauto.....they have the part listed under 4 different brands......$6.83 to $8.86
Could all come off the same production line for all we know.
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Links to my pictures, intended as an aid, not a replacement for, a good repair manual.
1996 3.8L Windstar
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...092975/detail/
2003 Toyota Sienna pictures (not much there yet)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...781661/detail/
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Old 06-03-2017, 11:27 AM   #3
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Re: Front Engine Mount

The Advance Auto salesperson wrote a descriptive note to go along with the returned broken part. She emphasized the potential danger involved. I do not know to expect any reply. I am considering removing the "replacement-replacement" part and adding addition weld myself ... all I need is for this failure to happen when I've lent the vehicle to someone who would not know how to handle.

I'm sure you are correct ; some little village workshop probably put all these parts together for all the various brands.
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Old 09-21-2017, 04:04 PM   #4
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Re: Front Engine Mount

I posted about that a while ago. Can't say I didn't warn you!

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...2&postcount=18

We went through two before I just sprung the $80 or so for the motorcraft part at the dealer. The difference in the OEM vs anchor mount is substantial. The anchor one is good for about 6 months before that weld gives up and lets go, allowing the engine to bang around and break all kinds of stuff.

The aftermarket mounts have been fine for the side ones (OEM are really outrageously overpriced for those) since they don't absorb the engine torque, but that front one MUST be the motorcraft unit or you're pretty much guaranteed a catastrophic failure.
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Old 09-29-2017, 10:08 AM   #5
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Re: Front Engine Mount

Yes, you did properly warn me. But I'm obstinate ... and cheap! Another inch of weld and these aftermarkets are probably OK.
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Old 08-07-2018, 06:08 PM   #6
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Re: Front Engine Mount

Well, roughly a year has passed since replacing the defective front mount. It seems to be OK, but....

Now the tranny-end mount has failed and been replaced. The rubber component just crumbled away. Advance Auto replaced it "free" ... but what about all the bother and danger? What a rip!

Now I'm convinced the rear mount has failed. Is it possible to buy replacement power train parts NOT made in China?

I wish on-line sellers were required to show country of origin for all products.
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Old 08-08-2018, 10:03 AM   #7
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Re: Front Engine Mount

Quote:
Originally Posted by 12Ounce View Post
Well, roughly a year has passed since replacing the defective front mount. It seems to be OK, but....

Now the tranny-end mount has failed and been replaced. The rubber component just crumbled away. Advance Auto replaced it "free" ... but what about all the bother and danger? What a rip!

Now I'm convinced the rear mount has failed. Is it possible to buy replacement power train parts NOT made in China?

I wish on-line sellers were required to show country of origin for all products.
When the front one breaks, the engine torque stresses the others. It probably took most of the damage when that happened. Yeah, it's cheap, but realize you're paying about $20 vs. $180 (OEM hydraulic), so it is what it is.

Did you get a new front one from a dealer? It's only about $85 or so; not too steep for piece of mind.

By "rear", I assume you mean engine-side rear just inside the wheel well. That one's pretty easy to change, so just swap it if you're worried. You can access both nuts via an assortment of socket extensions without taking anything else apart. Symptoms of that one failing include a vibration/rumble on right turns. It took me a while to pinpoint that cause, but that's how it manifests.
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