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11-19-2004, 01:26 AM | #1 | |
20 inches and growing ...
Join Date: Jul 2003
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Homemade P/E parts problems & questions
Okay, I was giving making my own P/E parts a try using the various resources out on the Internet. I tried the direct toner method since all the equipment is readily available to me. I started with a image of my fret, Fabulous logos for my Fabulous Celsior project. I printed it on 3M transparency paper using an HP LaserJet printer.
So far, so good. Image looks workable. So then I tried to use an iron to transfer the toner onto a brass sheet. I set it to medium-high and left it on the transparency for a few minutes. Then I pulled off the iron. Whiff. It didn't transfer properly. I figured okay let's leave it on longer. Nope. Okay, how about a little hotter. Nope. I've gotten it to the point where the transparency starts to deform. So what am I doing wrong? The stuff on the web doesn't give specifics on how hot to set the iron or how long, but it shouldn't be this difficult, should it? Any ideas or tips from those who have tried this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. |
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11-19-2004, 04:43 AM | #2 | |
AF Enthusiast
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Re: Homemade P/E parts problems & questions
I've never tried but why trying to put the ink on the brass?
If I remember correctly what my dad was doing with his Integrated Circuits. You will certainly insulate the brass with UV lamps, isn't it? So why not let the clear sheet over the brass, insulate it, remove the clear and then put it in the acid? Sorry if I've said something wrong, I was a little child when my dad was playing with electronic stuff. |
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11-19-2004, 05:26 AM | #3 | |
Car Mod guy
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Re: Homemade P/E parts problems & questions
Can't help you with the transfer issue coz not familiar with it but here is something you will need to consider...
When you etch metal, any part of the design can be no thinner than the thickness of the metal. So for example the letters in the logo must be to the same thickness as the metal you are using. You may already know this but I point it out coz some of the letters look very fine, in particular the sprue you have connecting them all. Incidently a way around the transfer issue is to use metal with a UV coating or coat the metal your self. You will then use your transparency image over the metal as you expose it to UV light. This is how its done professionally so may yield better results in the bedroom/kitchen/shed/workshop.
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CHRIS... Catch me on FACEBOOK http://www.c1-models.com http://www.facebook.com/C1Models |
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11-19-2004, 07:41 AM | #4 | |
www.hiroboy.com vendor
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Re: Homemade P/E parts problems & questions
Good Question, but sorry I don't know the answer but if you find out a "How To" on the subject would be great.
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11-19-2004, 08:42 AM | #5 | |
AF Newbie
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Re: Homemade P/E parts problems & questions
You have to use white glossy paper for this method, the transparency paper it's only useful for UV transfer. There is a hot transfer paper too, it is used to transfer the image from the paper to a t-shirt by means of a hot iron!!
HTH
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Mark Current Project: '57 Chevy Bel-Air '55 Mercedes 300SL "Gull wing" |
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11-19-2004, 09:09 AM | #6 | |
20 inches and growing ...
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Chris, I read the fact about thin pieces no thinner than the thickness of the metal. I am worried that the connecting parts are too small, but won't know till I get to the etching point. Just trying to get a good resist image first.
I'll play around with this some more, maybe with a larger, less complex design (etched gas/brake pedals or something). Maybe this design is a bit too complex for a first try. Might give the photosensitive method a try if that fails. Here is the tutorial I used for the P/E parts. http://modeltech.tripod.com/etching2.htm Text from the direct toner section. 3.Direct toner transfer. This method involves using laser printer or copier toner as the resist. Using this process you make copies of your art, either with a laser printer or a quality copier, onto transparency film, available from an office supply store (Kapton seems to be the preferred choice here). These copies are laid face (toner) side down onto the metal and , using heat from a household iron, the toner is "melted" onto the metal forming an etchant resistant barrier. Using the direct transfer method: All areas covered by the toner (resist in this case) will be left behind. See though areas will be etched away. However, any lettering must be done backwards, as the transfer procedure reverses the direction of the text. |
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11-19-2004, 11:00 AM | #7 | |
AF Newbie
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Re: Homemade P/E parts problems & questions
As you wish!!
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Mark Current Project: '57 Chevy Bel-Air '55 Mercedes 300SL "Gull wing" |
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11-19-2004, 01:23 PM | #8 | ||
Maximum Car Guy
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Re: Homemade P/E parts problems & questions
Quote:
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11-21-2004, 12:29 AM | #9 | |
AF Enthusiast
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Here some info that might help you
http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/Fea1/...rt/fea688.html |
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11-22-2004, 03:03 PM | #10 | ||
Maximum Car Guy
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Re: Homemade P/E parts problems & questions
Quote:
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