Corolla FAQs and Information - SEARCH/READ HERE BEFORE POSTING

[Brian R.]

GETTING RID OF BINDING STOCK ANTENNA

Q: My trunk keeps hitting my antenna since it won't go down the way it should. Is there a cheap fix for this?

A: Some guys install a Honda S2000 antenna in place of the stock one.

See this article:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t65507.html


HAZY HEADLIGHT COVERS

Q: My headlight covers are so hazy, I had to buy HID lights just so I would have enough light to drive buy. What can I do to polish them?

A: See the solutions posted in this thread:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=230436

[Brian R.]

CAR RUNS POORLY AT STOP LIGHT AND WANTS TO DIE

Q: My car starts good, runs ok going down the highway, but at a light it runs like poo-poo and wants to cut out. Any suggestions?

A: I'll bet your EGR valve is clogged. To check: Get a common hammer, locate the EGR, make it run bad, rap the EGR with the hammer (don't break it). You should be able to get the valve to unstick and it will idle like magic! Clean out the EGR with a coat hanger and carb cleaner or replace.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=375652
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=201333
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=280858
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=194096

[Brian R.]

REBUILDING YOUR OWN ALTERNATOR

Q: My brake and charge lights come on at the same time when the engine is running. What does that mean?

A: If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.

For carbon brushes R&R:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...nator_brushes/ http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...torbrushes.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x...nateur_kzj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=166525
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...270&forumid=10
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...r+brush+holder
http://www.bitwalla.com/cruisers/art...lternator.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/tec...c/altrnatr.htm

For decoding the dashboard lights:

http://www.powerbase-auto.co.uk/alternator_faults.htm
http://members.1stconnect.com/anozir...alternator.htm

Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles.

Toyota alternator Brushes with holder:

Toyota # 27370-35060=$29 CDN
Honda # 31105-PZ1-003
Metro # 39-82003 (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Unknown brand name # F4019-53035

Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated):

AC Delco # E724
AC Delco # E731 (side wire and concave tip)
Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder)
Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip)
Beck Arnley # 178-1376
Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip)
Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=$4.49/pair
Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000
Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000
Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000
Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000
Echlin # E601=$8.16 CDN/pair (UAP/NAPA)
Echlin # ECHE601
Echlin # EC480
Echlin # ECHE480
GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip)
GM # 94123056
GM # 96054118
Honda # 31144-PD1-004=$9.72
Honda # 31144-PD1-0040
Honda # 31144-PD1-0030
Honda # 31150-PR7-A01
Honda # 31150-PTO-003
Hino Industries # 021660-0390
Hino Industries # 021660-0510
Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0
Mazda # 021660-0390
Mazda # 021660-0510
Mazda # KL47-18-W75
Metro # 38-82001(side wire concave tip) (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Mileage Plus # E601SB
Mitsubishi # MD604474
Mitsubishi # 21660-0510
Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip)
NipponDenso # 021660-0390
NipponDenso # 021660-0510
Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip)
Subaru # 021660-0390
Subaru # 021660-0510
Suzuki # 31631-82610
Suzuki # 31656-82611
Suzuki # 021660-0510
Toyota # 27370-42010
Toyota # 27370-75060
Toyota # 27371-63020=$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip)
Toyota # 27371-70300=$5.20 (9105-9511)
Toyota # 27371-76004-71
UAP/NAPA # MPEE601SB
Victory Lap # FAX57=$4.49 CDN/pair (Canadian Tire)
Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=$2.20 each CDN (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks, box of 10 for $3.40 CDN)

Specifications:
Length=15 mm
Width=7 mm
Thickness=5 mm
Lead length=49 mm

These Honda alternators are the same except the pulley must be swapped:

1986-89 Honda Accord (Carb),the EFI can be used but the voltage reg must be swapped
1990-93 Acura Integra

Thanks to SydneyCanada for the above information

[Brian R.]

MOBILE ELECTRONICS/STEREO INSTALLATION

Q: Where can I find information on how to install a new stereo?

A: The Install Doctor is a good source:
http://www.installdr.com/

also see:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013f150.jsp

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013fc58.jsp

[Brian R.]

TECHNICAL ARTICLES ON TOYOTA ENGINE SYSTEMS
EXTENSIVE AUTOMOTIVE INFORMATION LINKS

Q: Where can I find technical information on my EGR system? I want to modify it and I'd better understand what's going on there first.

A: A good source of technical articles and automotive information links is Kevin Sullivan's Autoshop 101 site:

http://www.autoshop101.com/

Here are the titles of his technical articles followed by direct links to the articles:

Technical Articles
Toyota Series - Electrical
Electrical Fundamentals with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h1.pdf

Electrical Circuits with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h2.pdf

Electrical Components with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h3.pdf

Analog vs Digital Meters with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h4.pdf

Wire, Terminal and Connector Repair w/qu.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf

Automotive Batteries with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h6.pdf

Toyota Starting Systems with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h7.pdf

Toyota Charging Systems with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h8.pdf

Understanding Toyota Wiring Diagram.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h09e.pdf

Electrical Diagnostic Tools.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h10e.pdf

Diagnosing Body Electrical Problems.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h11e.pdf

Semiconductors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h12.pdf

Transistors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h13.pdf

Computers / Logic Gates with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h14.pdf

Overview of Sensors & Actuators w/quest.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h15.pdf

Electronic Transmission #1 - Operation.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf

Electronic Transmission #2 - Diagnosis w/quest.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h17.pdf

Shift Interlock System.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h18.pdf


Technical Articles
Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBDI (pre-1996 5S-FE and pre-1994 V6)
EFI#1 EFI System Overview.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h20.pdf

EFI#2 Air Induction System.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h21.pdf

EFI#3 Fuel Delivery & Injection Controls.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf

EFI#4 Ignition System.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf

Engine Controls #1 - Input Sensors.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h24.pdf

Engine Controls #2 - ECU/Outputs.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf

Engine Controls #3 - Idle Speed Control.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h26.pdf

Engine Controls #4 - Diagnosis.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf


Technical Articles
Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBD-II (1996 and newer 5S-FE, and '94 and newer 1MZ-FE)

Sensors#1 - Mode Sensors and Switches.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h31.pdf

Sensors#2 - Thermistors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h32.pdf

Sensors#3 - Position Sensors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h33.pdf

Sensors#4 - Air Flow Sensors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

Sensors#5 - Pressure Sensors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h35.pdf

Sensors#6 - Speed Sensors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf

Sensors#6 - Oxygen / Air Fuel Sensors w/ques.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h37.pdf

Sensors#8 - Knock Sensors with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h38.pdf

Ignition#1 - Ignition Overview w/questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h39.pdf

Ignition#2 - Electronic Spark Advance w/quest.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h40.pdf

Ignition#3 - Distributor / Distributorless w/qu.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h41.pdf

Fuel System#1 - Overview with questions.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h42.pdf

Fuel System#2 - Injection Duration w/ques.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h43.pdf

Fuel System#3 - Closed Loop /Fuel Trim w/qu.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h44.pdf

OBDII#1 - Overview of On-Board Diagnostics.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h46.pdf

OBDII#2 - Serial Data.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h47.pdf

OBDII#3 - Data Interpretation.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h48.pdf

Emission#1 - Chemistry of Combustion.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h55.pdf

Emission#2 - Emission Analysis.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h56.pdf

Emission#3 - Engine Sub Systems.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h57.pdf

Emission#4 - Closed Loop Feedback Systems.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h58.pdf

Emission#5 - Electronic Spark Advance.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h59.pdf

Emission#6 - Idle Speed Control Systems.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h60.pdf

Emission#7 - Exhause Gas Recirculation.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf

Emission#8 - Evaporative Emission Control.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h62.pdf

Emission#9 - Positive Crankcase Ventilation.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h63.pdf

Emission#10 - Catalytic Converter.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h64.pdf

Emission#11 - Secondary Air.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h65.pdf


Don't ignore the information and links in the "Automotive Links" section. Also, the "Online Bookstore" is useful if you want to get ASE certified.

[Brian R.]

OBDI CODES AND TROUBLESHOOTING

OBDI Procedures and Diagnostics:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf

and

[http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...2&goto=3198722

Download and see page EG1-300

and

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf

Summary:
If your car is a '96 or newer, you need an OBDII code reader. If your car is '94-'96, then you have to check under your hood on the emissions sticker to tell if it is OBDII or OBDI. If your car is '93 or older, then it is OBDI.

For OBDII codes, check:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...5&postcount=21

Codes:
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
67 Catalyst low efficiency. (same as P0420)
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

[Brian R.]

AIR CONDITIONING PROBLEMS

BLOWS HOT AIR

Q: My a/c doesn't work any more. All it does is blow hot air, never cold. What could be the problem?

A: Refill your a/c with freon. Put in freon until the compressor starts and there are no bubbles showing in the sight glass. If adding freon with the a/c on doesn't immediately start up the compressor, check the pressure sensor.

Q: Do I have to add any compressor oil when I fill the freon?

A: No, the only time you have to add compressor oil is if you have replaced a part in the system. There are tables that show how much oil to add, depending on which part(s) were replaced.

COMPRESSOR DOESN'T KEEP SPINNING

Q: 2.0 Toyota Camry 4 cylinders

What's happened is that when i turn on my ac, my compressor does start working, but it looses grip. I'm talking about the pulley.

When you look at the pulley with the belt on it, there is another thing like a pulley inside it. when ac is off, it doesn't spin, and that's how it should be. but when ac is on, it grips and spins for a second or two, then stops. It grips for another second or two, and stops. this goes on forever. when it does grip and spin, the second fan behind radiator starts. (other one keeps running). when it stops spinning, so does the fan.

Any suggestions?

A: Sounds like its low on refrigerant and its cutting off because of the low pressure, short-cycling. It probably needs to be recharged.

ENGINE IDLES REALLY BAD WITH A/C ON

Q: I just had my A/C fixed & it is blowing cold air! Anyways when I run it my A/C it feels like the engine is going to fly out of the hood! My whole car is like shaking then when I stop at stops it feels like the engine is going to die! Like it doesn't have enough engine power to keep both of them running! Any help would be useful. Thanks

I have a 1991 toyota camry wagon. V6 engine. Automatic.

A: Let me tell you this much. Most of the time, it is only a matter of adjusting your intake (commonly known as idle). Now, when you stop, you said that the engine feels like it's about to die. That, to the best of my judgement without hands-on work on the car, is because when you turn on the AC, the clutches in the ac compressor grip and engine is losing power because it's being used to spin the compressor pulley. That means it needs more fuel now. The mixture of air/fuel is not right. This CAN be a real pain in the backyard. For an easy no-brainer fix, all you have to do is get a flat screw driver and increaser the idle. How do you do that? Don't make me die laughing, but look at the intake, (you can see it looks like a tube right behind the engine where the air filter hose is going and I think it should say EFI (electronic fuel injection) on it). Look from above it and you should see a screw with a flat head that's probably made up of plastic. all you do is open it up, that's turning left just in case you don't know. This increases the amount of air going inside the engine. Open it up until the engine doesn't shake and the car runs smooth. All this should be done with the AC turned on all the way to full. Next, when all this is done, turn the AC off and see if it shakes now. If it doesn't, BINGO!!!!

If it does, welcome to our world. Just keep tweaking and messing around with it until you get it to your liking.

WHAT REFRIGERANT IS IN 1993 CAMRY?

Q: Does anyone know what type of A/C refrigerant the 5S-FE 93 Camry takes and how much and where I'd pump it into? I know I'm not supposed to be messing with that, but I think it's out of refrigerant anyway, and I just need to recharge it.

A: The 93 will take R12 but check the label under the hood to make sure, just in case someone has converted it to R134A. You can't purchase R12 over the counter any longer without a certificate, so if it's still R12 you will have to take it in some place to have it recharged. Be prepaired to pay some heavy dollars for it.

Q: I can't find any label under the hood, and, quite frankly, I wouldn't know what to look for as far as a 134A conversion.

A: The ports for R-12 has thread on them. The ones for R134a are quick connect type. If it's not converted, you should still have R-12.

I just converted my 92 to 134a refrigerant. It was quick and easy. The low end is in the back left side of the engine bay and the high side(you dont really use it) is right up front. I got a kit from autozone for 30bucks. 3 cans of refrigerant, pressure gauge/filler, and the adapters. It took longer to find the low end cap then it did to fill it. Quick 15min job. Well worth it. I have Ice cold A/c now!

You can buy Freeze12 and use it as a replacement for R12. It is available in stores and you can install it yourself.

Q: On the 134a conversion...did you end up having to do anything with the actual condensor? I've seen stuff where you have to remove that and change oil in it or something to that effect. And does the Freeze 12 require anything special, or do you just pump it into the system? Can you point me in the direction of the low end cap? pics would be nice, too. thanks in advance

A: Freeze12 just pumps in.

looking at the car from the front, with the hood up, its at the very back of the engine bay, against the firewall, at the back left corner, and its about 8 inches or so down into the engine bay. its kinda down below the passenger side of the engine bay, all the way in the back left corner.

With the incompatibility of the fittings, I don't think you can mix the two propellants unless you really work hard at it.

[Brian R.]

WINDSHIELD SCRATCHES

Q: My windshield has 2 wiper marks from crappy wiper blades. how can i get rid of them? Is there some kind of cleaner that wil bring them off?

A: If you can feel them with your finger nails they will not come out by cleaning, If not too deep you may be able to get the out with some very fine rubbing compound, some people use tooth paste. Do a Google search and see what come up. Be advised, it will require lots of time and effort and still may not work.

Q: Thanks for the reply. The marks are very light. I have some stuff called Plastix from Meguiers. It does an excellent job on plastic getting scratches and oxidation out. Do you think that will work?

A: It shouldn't hurt anything to try the Plastix. If that doesn't help here is an article that describes how to polish out scratches in windshields.

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...0101wp&print=1

[Brian R.]

BRAKE LIGHTS COME ON WHEN HEADLIGHTS ARE APPLIED

Q: Just purchased a 96 Camry. Has a few problems that I am working through. Have one that is a real stumper for me. The brake lights work fine during normal daytime driving conditions. When the headlights are turned on the brake lights are on. I have check the wiring and have found nothing shorted together. Thanks for any help.

A: The bulbs are probably installed incorrectly. You may have single filament bulb in a socket meant for double filament bulbs, or the correct bulbs may have been forced in backwards.

[Brian R.]

HOW TO MAKE MY CAR LAST AS LONG AS POSSIBLE

Q: My Corolla has 189,998 miles on it and it is running like a charm; all the things that I believe need to be replaced have been. I'm not going to be able to invest in another car for a while since I'm in college. Therefore, I'm going to need this car to last close to forever until I get a good job with some formidable income. I was wondering if there are any tips you could suggest for me to keep this thing running like the energizer bunny..?

A: Add an auxiliary transmission cooler. Pick a core up at a junkyard for $5-15usd, two 5/16" brass T fittings, 8 small hose clamps, zip ties, 5/16" oil hose.

Flush the transmission fluid every other year, or drain the pan every other oil change.

Change the oil every 5,000 miles - 6 months for dino oil, 7500-10,000 miles - 10 months for good synthetics. If your engine is one that is prone to sludge, shorten the above intervals appropriately (see first post in this thread).

Clean oil pan & screen, transmission pan & screen & change transmission filter every 5 years.

Rotate tires every oil change, twice if you're using a long life synthetic.

Clean the inside of the upper portion of the intake manifold, throttle plate, ISC/IAC valve(idle valve), and EGR valve yearly.

Change differential fluid every four years.

Flush the brake system with fresh DOT3, DOT4, or DOT4+/DOT5.1 every three years.

Change the fluid in the power steering reservoir every year, or flush the power steering system every other year.

Flush the cooling system every other year, or drain yearly.

Change radiator cap<s> & thermostat every 5 years.

Change PCV valve every 5 years.

Change O2 sensor<s> before 100,000 miles accumulates.

Change cat convertor before 100,000 miles accumulates.

Change distributor cap & rotor every other spark plug change (120,000 miles).

Check belts yearly, change belts when needed, change all belts (including timing belt) every 90,000 miles. Replace the water pump every other timing belt change.

Otherwise, just keep track of things. Like CV boots, things you need to grease, seals that can leak etc.

Use only NGK, or Denso spark plugs. Might as well be the generic $1 versions, as they last over the specified change time.

If spark plug wires ever become damaged, only replace with OEM wires, or high quality wires.

Lightly spray your CV boots with silicone lubricant when you're under the car for each oil change. Get as much of the surface shiny as you can. They will last a long time.

Pay attention to the body lube points and check the torque the chassis bolts as recommended by Toyota.

Make sure you use a high quality air filter. Some are very coarse and let in alot of abrasive dust. They do this in the name of high-performance, but other real hp filters are much better. Oil-wetted elements are the best (AMSOIL, TRD, etc). They actually trap the dust in the oil and prevent it from bouncing off the filter element.

Wash off the bottom of the car, wheel wells, bottom of engine compartment, etc a couple of times after salt exposure in the winter. As long as it's really cold, the salt is not too harmful. Once it has warmed above freezing, wash it off as soon as you can, at least once.

Wax your paint at least once a year before winter. More often is better. Use a good quality wax (I like Meguires, but there are alot of good ones).

Get the carbon out of your combustion chambers periodically - maybe every 100k or so. SeaFoam is quite good for this. Adding some to the gas (or Techron) once in a while is a good idea to minimize deposits on the injectors.

Watch all your fluid levels often. Even if they never change, if one of them suddenly start dropping, it is much better to catch it now than when something starts making noise.

To state the obvious: Drive your car like you want it to last. Everything else being equal, the harder you drive it, the less miles it will have in it.

(Thanks to Toysrme for alot of the above recommendations)

See also hints in http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=449003

[Brian R.]

INCREASING GAS MILEAGE

Q: How can I increase my gas mileage?

A: Make sure you are using a fresh air filter. You may consider getting an oil-wetted filter from TRD or AMSOIL. They are very efficient, reusable after cleaning and re-oiling, and somewhat expensive. They are free-flowing compared with efficient paper filters and you can clean them as often as you like. I clean mine every 10k. The TRD filter is oil-wetted cotton and the AMSOIL filter is oil-wetted double layered plastic open cell foam.

Tweak your AFM (on engines that have them instead of a MAF meter) as shown in:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...4&postcount=11
There is probably an optimum setting for gas mileage.

Your engine may get better mileage with higher octane gas, particularly if you do alot of highway driving. Use higher octane gas for a few tankfuls when you are on a trip, keeping track of the mileage and gas used, and see if that makes any difference. If not, don't waste your money. Say the price of 87 octane is 30 cents cheaper than 89 octane and you get 20% better mileage (from 15 mpg to 18 mpg) with the 89 octane. If the price of gas for the 87 octane is $3.00/gal, then you are paying 10% more per gallon, while saving 20% in gasoline usage. This is a good bargain. If you break even, I would still use the higher octane gas. You have to do the math and the experiment on your truck. At some price, it will be worth it for some percent increase in mileage. In all honesty, you probably won't see a difference in mileage between the octanes, meaning you should use 87 octane. However, it doesn't cost much to try and you should know about it if your vehicle derives a benefit from the higher octane gas.

Keep an eye on your ignition timing, idle speed, and wheel alignment. A high idle speed will cost you, as well as retarded ignition timing or bad alignment.

Fill your tires with 4-6 more psi than that recommended in your door label. Low tire pressure will cost you. Don't fill the tires above the maximum psi labeled on the tire.

Keep your injectors clean with a fuel additive periodically.

Get any "Check Engine" light problem immediately. Many times you engine will default to a standard condition when a sensor goes bad. It gets you where you're going, but it is far from optimum as far as engine efficiency goes.

Exhaust headers and lower restriction cat converters and mufflers will help your mileage to varying degrees. Buy stuff that you find has helped other Camry owners.

I don't believe in cold air intakes. They are a waste of money IMO. Maybe some vehicles have poorly-designed intake systems and are helped by almost any mod. Yours is not one of them.

Use 5W30 oil in your engine - possibly 0W30 or 5W20. I have heard they work fine, but I have not tried them myself. Those lower viscosity oils will certainly make a difference in your gas mileage.

For additional hints and suggestions, see the following links:

http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/r...fuelsaving.asp

http://www.performancempg.com/lubric...el_mileage.htm

(information on the above two sites authored by ctelsa)

[Brian R.]

FIXING PAINT CHIPS AND SCRATCHES

Materials
1. Small bottle of the proper Toyota touch up paint and Toyota clear coat, if needed (Toyota metallic finishes are clearcoat; a non-metallic colors were not).
2. DuPont PrepSol (available from autobody supply).
3. Disposable touch-up microbrushes made by ProTouch (from an autobody supply).
4. 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound, Fine Cut (from an autobody supply).
5. Lacquer thinner to keep brush clean.
6. Wet-dry sandpaper: 1000 grit, 1500 grit, and 2000 grit (there is a new product out that is an alternative to wet sanding for use in auto touch ups - check it out at http://www.langka.com).

Procedure - Scratches
Use this procedure for long scratches and for large chips.

1. Use 1000 grit paper and wet-sand the scratch and the area around it. Make sure to use lots of water when sanding. This keeps scratching to a minimum.
2. Use DuPont Prepsol to clean wax off before touch-up.
3. Using microbrush and liberal amounts of paint, touch up the full-length of the scratch. As soon as the paint drys (10 minutes) do another coat. Repeat until you have done sufficient coats to have built a small mound of paint over the length of the scratch.
4. Let dry for 24 hours.
5. Now wet-sand the touched up surface with 1500 grit wet sandpaper. Sand in a front to rear motion since that's the direction the car is painted with, hence: you're going with the grain of the paint. Sand until you have eliminated the mound and any touchup paint outside of the scratch.
6. Clean area thoroughly and let dry.
7. Take a clean microbrush and begin to apply the clearcoat to the area. Don't be afraid to be liberal with it and don't try and keep the clearcoat within the scratch area. Apply approximately 3-4 coats, again until there is a small mound. Let it set and completely dry for 4-5 days.
8. Now, wet sand with 2000 grit wet sand paper. You will begin to see the clearcoated scratch blend into the rest of the paint - thus disappearing. (It produces a very gratifying feeling!)

Procedure - Chips
You can use this abbreviated procedure to fix the many small chips on the hood and front fascia.

1. Use 1000 grit paper and wet-sand the scratch and the area around it. Make sure to use lots of water when sanding. This keeps scratching to a minimum.
2. Use DuPont Prepsol to clean wax off before touch-up.
3. Using microbrush and liberal amounts of paint, touch up the chip. As soon as the paint drys (10 minutes) do another coat. Repeat until you have done sufficient coats to have built a small mound of paint over the expanse of the chip.
4. Let dry for 24 hours.
5. Wet sand with 2000 grit wet sand paper. You will begin to see the touch-up paint blend into the rest of the paint - nearly disappearing. The repairs are not noticable to passersby, and look much better than the chips did.

Note: The clear coat on the flexible plastic parts doesn't rub back as well as the rest of the paint, probably due to the flex agents in the paint..

Adapted from a post to VetteNet by Doug Johnson, and to the Grand Prix mailing list by Paul Berndt.

[Brian R.]

Torque Specifications

Q: I need torque specifications for the bolts in my 1988 Corolla. Where can I find this information?

A: The torque specifications for bolts/fasteners in any '88 - '97 Corolla engine can be found at:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8016a3cd.jsp

[Brian R.]

Troubleshooting Camry Engine Mechanical Problems and Engine Performance Problems

Q: Where can I find a troubleshooting guide for my Camry engine?

A: A guide for troubleshooting Corolla engine mechanical problems and engine performance problems can be found at Autozone:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8016a3cd.jsp

[Brian R.]

HOW TO CLEAN/DETAIL YOUR ENGINE

Here is a link on how to clean and detail your engine:

http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=25