94 Ford Escort 1.9L Engine Rebuild Issue

[hakachukai]

Does anyone happen to know the torque specs for:

Clutch housing bolts
Rear main seal bolts


I can't find them in my Haynes manual anywhere! :-(

I also couldn't find an FSM online :-/

[12Ounce]

I've always considered the seals similar to the oil-pan-to-block bolts: 15 - 22 ft lbs

... if you are talking about transaxle-to-engine bolts, you will find them in chapter 7 of Haynes.

[hakachukai]

Thanks!

I'm talking about the little 10mm bolts that bolt the manual clutch cover to the flywheel.

I couldn't find them in Haynes or on the web in general :-/

[12Ounce]

Are those the "clutch pressure plate bolts"? Page 8-1

I believe those are high-strength bolts, aren't they? Cross-grooves in the head? ....or so I remember.

[hakachukai]

Thanks for the info!

So far the engine is re-assembled and back in the car.

Tomorrow I'll re-install the manifolds and all of the accessories.

I installed an after market oil pressure gauge.
I filled it up with 10W 40
Replaced the oil filter
Primed the oil pump

Ran a crank test with no spark plugs installed and no ignition ( timing belt was installed and engine was timed ).


Everything went well, but I'm really surprised how high the oil pressure is! According the gauge it's 67psi while cranking! Is that normal!? That seems pretty high to me...

[12Ounce]

Yeah, 4 atmospheres is a little high ... but it will go down a bit as the oil warms. That's what you get with a new pump ... nothing to worry about if the filter can holds together.

[hakachukai]

Yikes! It actually went up a little higher when it got cold out!

I shot a video of the install and test. It was 72degF outside and it hit 70PSI while cranking!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXwRQQttHTY

Should I drop down to 10W 30?

[12Ounce]

No, ... just watch the oil filter for fractures. Note that you are not maxing out the gauge. 10w-40 is a good summer grade. Swap to a lower grade at your next oil change. With all the work you have done on engine ... I would suggest an oil change at 1000 miles, or less, anyway.

I watched the video. Good job. You may want to install a pipe tee into the block port ... and reinstall the original sensor. As a back-up.

Some of the gauge kits use a nylon tube instead of copper. I have installed gauges before ... and always try to include a loop or two in the tubing to absorb some of the engine movement. Just a heads-up.

[hakachukai]

I ran an RPM test today.

I didn't dare to push it past 4k RPM's because the oil pressure was 95 PSI!
I was afraid that the oil filter would go off like a hand grenade.

It needs new spark plugs badly! The old spark plugs got rusty.

The only thing that concerns me so far is that I'm hearing a lot of valve ticking. That is new.
I don't know why that would suddenly start happening, but I've had the head apart several times... so I guess I'll just have to check it out again...

[12Ounce]

Hmmm.

Just thinking out loud: Is there any chance the debris from the failing oil pump passed the oil filter and plugged some arteries? ... or lifters? Hope not ... but you are getting my attention now with the oil pressure. There are some plugs at the back end of the block ... opposite from the oil pump ... can be used to clean the major arteries.

[hakachukai]

I cleaned the main artery when I had the engine apart. There was nothing in there.

Also the oil pump doesn't seem to be missing any pieces large enough to be anything but grit.

I'll trying pulling the rockers off and checking the oil flow to the head.

What kind of oil pressure should I expect for this engine through out the RPM range?

[12Ounce]

Originally Posted by hakachukai

I cleaned the main artery when I had the engine apart. There was nothing in there.

Also the oil pump doesn't seem to be missing any pieces large enough to be anything but grit.

I'll trying pulling the rockers off and checking the oil flow to the head.

What kind of oil pressure should I expect for this engine through out the RPM range?

What do you mean by "main artery"? You did not have a shop do a cleaning, correct?

I would suggest that, with the plugs out, you remove the oil filter and crank the engine over enough to dump about 1 qt. of oil into a clean container. Inspect the oil for contaminants. Continue until the oil comes clean. Then install a new filter and check pressure again. I would not expect any pressures over 75psi. Of course, we do not know how accurate the gauge is ...it may read high.

I suspect you are not getting much flow pass the filter. Hence, the noisy lifters and high pressure.

[hakachukai]

Ok.. so I don't have an oil diagram for this car, but when I had the engine apart I studied it very carefully.

The main artery is a single straight tubular hole about 10mm wide. It travels the entire length of the head. The back side of this artery has an oil plug right behind the flywheel. The oil pump directly bolts up to the front side of this artery.

From the main artery 5 sub arteries carry oil down the crank journals.
At the same time 1 sub artery carries oil up to the head.
The head has several large holes in it that allow oil to drain down like a water fall back into the oil pan.


The oil pumping sequence goes like this:

Oil screen --> oil pump --> filter --> main artery ( oil pressure measured here ) --> crank journals and head


So high oil pressure can not possibly be the fault of the filter right? Because the pressure is measured after the filter.

Maybe I should tear down the lifters and remove the crank journals one at a time while cranking and see if anything flushes out?
Something must be restricting the flow of oil past that point to make the pressure rise.

Or do you think maybe the oil that I'm using is just too thick... and maybe the bypass valve in this new oil pump is not working properly?
I'm using 10W40. This engine calls for 10W30.

[hakachukai]

Ok, I did some testing on the head. Here is what I did and the result:

I checked the cranking oil pressure once again. 60PSI

I removed the #1 exhaust rocker only ( the rest of the head and engine remained fully assembled ).

Tested again. 60PSI oil pressure.

I also noticed that no oil came out of the bolt hole for the rocker arm. This seems like a serious problem because I'm pretty sure that is how the rockers get oiled.

See attached pics.

It looks to me like the bolt hole is designed to transport oil to the rocker. Am I wrong about this? Yet no oil is flowing through it.

[hakachukai]

Yeah, I verified that the bolt hole on the head has an oiler orifice. No oil is flowing through it.

I have verified two things:

#1 Oil IS squirting out of all of the lifters.
#2 Oil is NOT making it to some of the rockers

I'll tear down the head tomorrow. I don't have any diagrams... but it needs to be done, so I'll do it anyway.