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04-27-2007, 02:09 AM | #16 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
I finished replacing the lower intake manifold gasket. I took my time, all seemed to go very well until I tried to start it. Fuel sprayed out of the the fuel rail, so I stopped trying right to start right away . I think it's spraying from the return line (if this is the line with the large nut the screws directly into the fuel rail fastening the line that fits inside the rail.) The nut is tight and was not cross threaded.
I never seen an o-ring for this line, is there suppose to be? What would cause this? I consider myself mechaincally inclined but when it comes to fuel injection I'm hopeless. Alot of other first timers seemed to get this job done right. I know the other fuel line that fits into the rail (nearest to the front of the vehicle) has an o-ring and a fuel screen and get pushed into place then secured by a bracket with a nut. All injectors seated good. I don't get it. I had to stop for the night but now cant sleep do to worrying about how I'm going to solve this. Any help or thougths would be gratefully appreciated. |
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04-27-2007, 01:07 PM | #17 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
Yes, it has an O-Ring and also, each fuel injector has O-rings. If you had fuel spurting, you probably missed one. Just because you do not see one when taking it apart, does not mean one is not required!
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04-27-2007, 03:16 PM | #18 | ||
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
Quote:
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04-28-2007, 10:57 AM | #19 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
AND . . . for what you pay for the O-ring from the dealer, you can buy 3 - 4 of those AutoZone thingies.
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09-16-2007, 11:18 AM | #20 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
Update time.60K after my last repair the gasket started leaking again. Root cause was the same as all other vehicles, the top LH diagonal bolt loosened. These were things I did different this time around and info that I got talking to a mechanic at the dealer.
1) I bought an OEM lower intake gasket this time around vs. aftermarket. GM has pressed in metal pucks on the top and bottom of the diagonal bolt holes to prevent the plastic from cracking under the new torque specs. My gasket wasn’t cracked but it’s apparently been an issue. All other gaskets were aftermarket. 2) I didn’t use any pipe dope on this repair but soaked them with serviceable (blue) loctite. This was apparently the main contributor to the field failures. GM recommends new bolts because they have a loctite patch on them that the original bolts never had. At $9.00 a bolt, I’ll put it on myself. First time around, I was scared that some of the bolts might run through a water jacket so I put more dope then loctite which was my ultimate mistake. The mechanic told me he only used loctite and never had any issues so that was good enough for me. 3) This time around I completely unbolted the heater line from the engine so this gave me easier access to the fuel line nut that bolts it to the block. 4) When I disconnected the fuel, I disconnected the regulator side first to help relieve the pressure which made catching the O-ring on the pressure side easier. I’m assuming that most people cut corners like me and don’t properly relieve the fuel pressure. 5) Once I torqued the diagonal bolts to 220in/lbs it loosened the horizontal bolts, so I retorqued them back to 115 in/lbs. This didn’t cause the gasket to fail the first time but was something I noticed on this last job and corrected it. 6) I tried leaving the fuel injectors in and it was relatively easy. I disconnected the harnesses that were close to the firewall, loosened the 2 bolts that fastened the rails to the block for a bit of movement then removed the manifold bolts with a ¼” drive socket and extension. An adapter was used to mate it up with my torque wrench. When cleaning the intake gasket surface you have to be careful and not drop any carbon deposits which can fall and clog your injectors that are now pointing straight up at you. I did 2 jobs in which I removed the rail and one which I didn’t. If I had to do it again, I’d leave the rails in. It’s not a real big time saver but it’s just one less thing that may go wrong like tearing an O-ring. 7) Put a foot of 3/8” (3/8 ID, 1/8” thk) rubber fuel line on your shopping list. You have two 2”-3” long hoses that go from the heater line to the plenum that can easily be damaged when removing them. I had to replace one the first time and the other the second time. Both times I had to drop my tools and go get some hose because I didn’t have any. I now have a foot of the stuff in my tool box. |
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09-16-2007, 11:39 AM | #21 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
I'm going to sticky this thread so it stays at the top of the forum and members will be able to access the info easily when they need it.
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09-19-2007, 05:07 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
I have 2 cars with this same problem, one leaking more than the other. What are all the gaskets/ o-ring I would need to do this. I want to get everything ready so I can try and do it without making extra trips anywhere to get stuff I forgot.
Also, I've read some stuff about the new bolts, and I don't remember if I saw something about the new bolts being longer or are they the same size? Thanks |
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09-19-2007, 08:39 PM | #23 | ||
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
Quote:
1) Lower intake gasket from OEM 2) Fuel rail O-ring from OEM (I've never used after market so can't comment) 3) Upper intake or plenum gasket 4) 2 valve cover gaskets 5) Tube of high heat gasket maker 6) Can of gasket cleaner 7) Plastic putty knife 8) 1 foot of 3/8" fuel line 9) 2 gallons of Antifreeze...most probably DEX 10) oil and filter 11) Blue Loctite (serviceable) 12)thermostat 13) belt 14) plugs, dielectric grease, antiseize and wires, 15) 18mm wrench and deep socket. (they normally don't come in a set) Those items are all I ever needed. I reused these parts but you may want to buy them and return if not needed. 1) O-ring for heater pipe to water pump 2) EGR gasket 3) Injector o-rings if you take them out. |
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09-25-2007, 10:43 PM | #24 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
Very good input to all.... i have read this string and found many useful advice..
thank you to all Last edited by DBLC; 09-29-2007 at 12:20 PM. |
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10-21-2007, 10:03 AM | #25 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
I'm about to embark on this wonderful quest to replace my gaskets-YAY! (not)
If I'm reading you all correctly, the gaskets have changed. Now bear with my stupidity for a second...If i go to Autozone and purchase a Felpro gasket kit (upper) is that the right one I need to fix the issue of my AF and oil playing together or do I need the lower one and will the gasket be the revised version? As I said, bear with my stupidity as I've never messed with this before. BTW, this is for the 01 mali, not the 99 monte in my sig
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10-21-2007, 02:32 PM | #26 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
I don't know if Autozone has the updated gaskets but Napa does, Gm does also, make sure you get the revised intake bolts and torquing procedure also.
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10-21-2007, 05:47 PM | #27 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
Ok, do I need the manifold gasket kit or the cylinder head gasket kit?
That's all I need to know.
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10-21-2007, 06:17 PM | #28 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
Intake kit.
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10-28-2007, 03:50 PM | #29 | |
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
Started on the replacement gasket today. everyhting was going alright until I need to loosen the heater pipe fitting from the thermostat housing. there is no nut there to loosen. it appears to be threaded into the housing with no nut. Has anybody else come across this probelm Im refering to section 7.13a in the haynes book. Can anyone give me any ideas of what to do with this step. Thanks Gary
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10-28-2007, 08:11 PM | #30 | ||
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Re: Replacing intake gasket...
Quote:
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