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07-01-2005, 09:43 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
GETTING RID OF BINDING STOCK ANTENNA
Q: My trunk keeps hitting my antenna since it won't go down the way it should. Is there a cheap fix for this? A: Some guys install a Honda S2000 antenna in place of the stock one. See this article: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t65507.html HAZY HEADLIGHT COVERS Q: My headlight covers are so hazy, I had to buy HID lights just so I would have enough light to drive buy. What can I do to polish them? A: See the solutions posted in this thread: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=230436
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07-02-2005, 01:56 PM | #17 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
CAR RUNS POORLY AT STOP LIGHT AND WANTS TO DIE
Q: My car starts good, runs ok going down the highway, but at a light it runs like poo-poo and wants to cut out. Any suggestions? A: I'll bet your EGR valve is clogged. To check: Get a common hammer, locate the EGR, make it run bad, rap the EGR with the hammer (don't break it). You should be able to get the valve to unstick and it will idle like magic! Clean out the EGR with a coat hanger and carb cleaner or replace. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=375652 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=201333 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=280858 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=194096
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07-10-2005, 08:10 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
REBUILDING YOUR OWN ALTERNATOR
Q: My brake and charge lights come on at the same time when the engine is running. What does that mean? A: If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver. For carbon brushes R&R: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...nator_brushes/ http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...torbrushes.htm http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x...nateur_kzj.htm http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=166525 http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...270&forumid=10 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...r+brush+holder http://www.bitwalla.com/cruisers/art...lternator.html http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/tec...c/altrnatr.htm For decoding the dashboard lights: http://www.powerbase-auto.co.uk/alternator_faults.htm http://members.1stconnect.com/anozir...alternator.htm Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles. Toyota alternator Brushes with holder: Toyota # 27370-35060=$29 CDN Honda # 31105-PZ1-003 Metro # 39-82003 (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California) Unknown brand name # F4019-53035 Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated): AC Delco # E724 AC Delco # E731 (side wire and concave tip) Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder) Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip) Beck Arnley # 178-1376 Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip) Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=$4.49/pair Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000 Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000 Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000 Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000 Echlin # E601=$8.16 CDN/pair (UAP/NAPA) Echlin # ECHE601 Echlin # EC480 Echlin # ECHE480 GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip) GM # 94123056 GM # 96054118 Honda # 31144-PD1-004=$9.72 Honda # 31144-PD1-0040 Honda # 31144-PD1-0030 Honda # 31150-PR7-A01 Honda # 31150-PTO-003 Hino Industries # 021660-0390 Hino Industries # 021660-0510 Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0 Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0 Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0 Mazda # 021660-0390 Mazda # 021660-0510 Mazda # KL47-18-W75 Metro # 38-82001(side wire concave tip) (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California) Mileage Plus # E601SB Mitsubishi # MD604474 Mitsubishi # 21660-0510 Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip) NipponDenso # 021660-0390 NipponDenso # 021660-0510 Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip) Subaru # 021660-0390 Subaru # 021660-0510 Suzuki # 31631-82610 Suzuki # 31656-82611 Suzuki # 021660-0510 Toyota # 27370-42010 Toyota # 27370-75060 Toyota # 27371-63020=$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip) Toyota # 27371-70300=$5.20 (9105-9511) Toyota # 27371-76004-71 UAP/NAPA # MPEE601SB Victory Lap # FAX57=$4.49 CDN/pair (Canadian Tire) Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=$2.20 each CDN (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks, box of 10 for $3.40 CDN) Specifications: Length=15 mm Width=7 mm Thickness=5 mm Lead length=49 mm These Honda alternators are the same except the pulley must be swapped: 1986-89 Honda Accord (Carb),the EFI can be used but the voltage reg must be swapped 1990-93 Acura Integra Thanks to SydneyCanada for the above information
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07-12-2005, 11:47 PM | #19 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
MOBILE ELECTRONICS/STEREO INSTALLATION
Q: Where can I find information on how to install a new stereo? A: The Install Doctor is a good source: http://www.installdr.com/ also see: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013f150.jsp http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013fc58.jsp
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07-13-2005, 12:10 AM | #20 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
TECHNICAL ARTICLES ON TOYOTA ENGINE SYSTEMS
EXTENSIVE AUTOMOTIVE INFORMATION LINKS Q: Where can I find technical information on my EGR system? I want to modify it and I'd better understand what's going on there first. A: A good source of technical articles and automotive information links is Kevin Sullivan's Autoshop 101 site: http://www.autoshop101.com/ Here are the titles of his technical articles followed by direct links to the articles: Technical Articles Toyota Series - Electrical Electrical Fundamentals with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h1.pdf Electrical Circuits with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h2.pdf Electrical Components with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h3.pdf Analog vs Digital Meters with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h4.pdf Wire, Terminal and Connector Repair w/qu.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf Automotive Batteries with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h6.pdf Toyota Starting Systems with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h7.pdf Toyota Charging Systems with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h8.pdf Understanding Toyota Wiring Diagram.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h09e.pdf Electrical Diagnostic Tools.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h10e.pdf Diagnosing Body Electrical Problems.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h11e.pdf Semiconductors with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h12.pdf Transistors with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h13.pdf Computers / Logic Gates with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h14.pdf Overview of Sensors & Actuators w/quest.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h15.pdf Electronic Transmission #1 - Operation.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf Electronic Transmission #2 - Diagnosis w/quest.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h17.pdf Shift Interlock System.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h18.pdf Technical Articles Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBDI (pre-1996 5S-FE and pre-1994 V6) EFI#1 EFI System Overview.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h20.pdf EFI#2 Air Induction System.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h21.pdf EFI#3 Fuel Delivery & Injection Controls.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf EFI#4 Ignition System.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf Engine Controls #1 - Input Sensors.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h24.pdf Engine Controls #2 - ECU/Outputs.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf Engine Controls #3 - Idle Speed Control.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h26.pdf Engine Controls #4 - Diagnosis.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf Technical Articles Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBD-II (1996 and newer 5S-FE, and '94 and newer 1MZ-FE) Sensors#1 - Mode Sensors and Switches.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h31.pdf Sensors#2 - Thermistors with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h32.pdf Sensors#3 - Position Sensors with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h33.pdf Sensors#4 - Air Flow Sensors with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf Sensors#5 - Pressure Sensors with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h35.pdf Sensors#6 - Speed Sensors with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf Sensors#6 - Oxygen / Air Fuel Sensors w/ques.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h37.pdf Sensors#8 - Knock Sensors with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h38.pdf Ignition#1 - Ignition Overview w/questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h39.pdf Ignition#2 - Electronic Spark Advance w/quest.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h40.pdf Ignition#3 - Distributor / Distributorless w/qu.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h41.pdf Fuel System#1 - Overview with questions.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h42.pdf Fuel System#2 - Injection Duration w/ques.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h43.pdf Fuel System#3 - Closed Loop /Fuel Trim w/qu.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h44.pdf OBDII#1 - Overview of On-Board Diagnostics.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h46.pdf OBDII#2 - Serial Data.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h47.pdf OBDII#3 - Data Interpretation.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h48.pdf Emission#1 - Chemistry of Combustion.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h55.pdf Emission#2 - Emission Analysis.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h56.pdf Emission#3 - Engine Sub Systems.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h57.pdf Emission#4 - Closed Loop Feedback Systems.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h58.pdf Emission#5 - Electronic Spark Advance.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h59.pdf Emission#6 - Idle Speed Control Systems.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h60.pdf Emission#7 - Exhause Gas Recirculation.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf Emission#8 - Evaporative Emission Control.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h62.pdf Emission#9 - Positive Crankcase Ventilation.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h63.pdf Emission#10 - Catalytic Converter.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h64.pdf Emission#11 - Secondary Air.pdf http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h65.pdf Don't ignore the information and links in the "Automotive Links" section. Also, the "Online Bookstore" is useful if you want to get ASE certified.
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07-22-2005, 09:20 AM | #21 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
OBDI CODES AND TROUBLESHOOTING
OBDI Procedures and Diagnostics: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf and [http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...2&goto=3198722 Download and see page EG1-300 and http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf Summary: If your car is a '96 or newer, you need an OBDII code reader. If your car is '94-'96, then you have to check under your hood on the emissions sticker to tell if it is OBDII or OBDI. If your car is '93 or older, then it is OBDI. For OBDII codes, check: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...5&postcount=21 Codes: 1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1 2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2 3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor 4 CKP - crank position sensor 5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor 6 ECT - water temperature sensor 7 TPS - throttle position sensor 8 TDC - top dead centre sensor 9 CYP - cylinder sensor 10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor 12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve 13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor 14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve 15 Ignition output signal 16 Fuel injectors 17 VSS - speed sensor 19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve 20 Electrical load detector 21 VTEC spool solenoid valve 22 VTEC pressure valve 23 Knock sensor 30 Automatic transmission A signal 31 Automatic transmission B signal 36 traction control found on JDM ecu's 41 Primary oxygen sensor heater 43 Fuel supply system 45 Fuel system too rich or lean 48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor 54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor 58 TDC sensor #2 61 Primary oxygen sensor 63 Secondary oxygen sensor 65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater 67 Catalyst low efficiency. (same as P0420) 71 random misfire cylinder 1 72 random misfire cylinder 2 73 random misfire cylinder 3 74 random misfire cylinder 4 80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected 86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem 90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area 91 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow
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08-15-2005, 09:58 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
AIR CONDITIONING PROBLEMS
BLOWS HOT AIR Q: My a/c doesn't work any more. All it does is blow hot air, never cold. What could be the problem? A: Refill your a/c with freon. Put in freon until the compressor starts and there are no bubbles showing in the sight glass. If adding freon with the a/c on doesn't immediately start up the compressor, check the pressure sensor. Q: Do I have to add any compressor oil when I fill the freon? A: No, the only time you have to add compressor oil is if you have replaced a part in the system. There are tables that show how much oil to add, depending on which part(s) were replaced. COMPRESSOR DOESN'T KEEP SPINNING Q: 2.0 Toyota Camry 4 cylinders What's happened is that when i turn on my ac, my compressor does start working, but it looses grip. I'm talking about the pulley. When you look at the pulley with the belt on it, there is another thing like a pulley inside it. when ac is off, it doesn't spin, and that's how it should be. but when ac is on, it grips and spins for a second or two, then stops. It grips for another second or two, and stops. this goes on forever. when it does grip and spin, the second fan behind radiator starts. (other one keeps running). when it stops spinning, so does the fan. Any suggestions? A: Sounds like its low on refrigerant and its cutting off because of the low pressure, short-cycling. It probably needs to be recharged. ENGINE IDLES REALLY BAD WITH A/C ON Q: I just had my A/C fixed & it is blowing cold air! Anyways when I run it my A/C it feels like the engine is going to fly out of the hood! My whole car is like shaking then when I stop at stops it feels like the engine is going to die! Like it doesn't have enough engine power to keep both of them running! Any help would be useful. Thanks I have a 1991 toyota camry wagon. V6 engine. Automatic. A: Let me tell you this much. Most of the time, it is only a matter of adjusting your intake (commonly known as idle). Now, when you stop, you said that the engine feels like it's about to die. That, to the best of my judgement without hands-on work on the car, is because when you turn on the AC, the clutches in the ac compressor grip and engine is losing power because it's being used to spin the compressor pulley. That means it needs more fuel now. The mixture of air/fuel is not right. This CAN be a real pain in the backyard. For an easy no-brainer fix, all you have to do is get a flat screw driver and increaser the idle. How do you do that? Don't make me die laughing, but look at the intake, (you can see it looks like a tube right behind the engine where the air filter hose is going and I think it should say EFI (electronic fuel injection) on it). Look from above it and you should see a screw with a flat head that's probably made up of plastic. all you do is open it up, that's turning left just in case you don't know. This increases the amount of air going inside the engine. Open it up until the engine doesn't shake and the car runs smooth. All this should be done with the AC turned on all the way to full. Next, when all this is done, turn the AC off and see if it shakes now. If it doesn't, BINGO!!!! If it does, welcome to our world. Just keep tweaking and messing around with it until you get it to your liking. WHAT REFRIGERANT IS IN 1993 CAMRY? Q: Does anyone know what type of A/C refrigerant the 5S-FE 93 Camry takes and how much and where I'd pump it into? I know I'm not supposed to be messing with that, but I think it's out of refrigerant anyway, and I just need to recharge it. A: The 93 will take R12 but check the label under the hood to make sure, just in case someone has converted it to R134A. You can't purchase R12 over the counter any longer without a certificate, so if it's still R12 you will have to take it in some place to have it recharged. Be prepaired to pay some heavy dollars for it. Q: I can't find any label under the hood, and, quite frankly, I wouldn't know what to look for as far as a 134A conversion. A: The ports for R-12 has thread on them. The ones for R134a are quick connect type. If it's not converted, you should still have R-12. I just converted my 92 to 134a refrigerant. It was quick and easy. The low end is in the back left side of the engine bay and the high side(you dont really use it) is right up front. I got a kit from autozone for 30bucks. 3 cans of refrigerant, pressure gauge/filler, and the adapters. It took longer to find the low end cap then it did to fill it. Quick 15min job. Well worth it. I have Ice cold A/c now! You can buy Freeze12 and use it as a replacement for R12. It is available in stores and you can install it yourself. Q: On the 134a conversion...did you end up having to do anything with the actual condensor? I've seen stuff where you have to remove that and change oil in it or something to that effect. And does the Freeze 12 require anything special, or do you just pump it into the system? Can you point me in the direction of the low end cap? pics would be nice, too. thanks in advance A: Freeze12 just pumps in. looking at the car from the front, with the hood up, its at the very back of the engine bay, against the firewall, at the back left corner, and its about 8 inches or so down into the engine bay. its kinda down below the passenger side of the engine bay, all the way in the back left corner. With the incompatibility of the fittings, I don't think you can mix the two propellants unless you really work hard at it.
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08-15-2005, 11:48 PM | #23 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
WINDSHIELD SCRATCHES
Q: My windshield has 2 wiper marks from crappy wiper blades. how can i get rid of them? Is there some kind of cleaner that wil bring them off? A: If you can feel them with your finger nails they will not come out by cleaning, If not too deep you may be able to get the out with some very fine rubbing compound, some people use tooth paste. Do a Google search and see what come up. Be advised, it will require lots of time and effort and still may not work. Q: Thanks for the reply. The marks are very light. I have some stuff called Plastix from Meguiers. It does an excellent job on plastic getting scratches and oxidation out. Do you think that will work? A: It shouldn't hurt anything to try the Plastix. If that doesn't help here is an article that describes how to polish out scratches in windshields. http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...0101wp&print=1
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08-24-2005, 11:01 PM | #24 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
BRAKE LIGHTS COME ON WHEN HEADLIGHTS ARE APPLIED
Q: Just purchased a 96 Camry. Has a few problems that I am working through. Have one that is a real stumper for me. The brake lights work fine during normal daytime driving conditions. When the headlights are turned on the brake lights are on. I have check the wiring and have found nothing shorted together. Thanks for any help. A: The bulbs are probably installed incorrectly. You may have single filament bulb in a socket meant for double filament bulbs, or the correct bulbs may have been forced in backwards.
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08-25-2005, 07:25 PM | #25 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
HOW TO MAKE MY CAR LAST AS LONG AS POSSIBLE
Q: My Corolla has 189,998 miles on it and it is running like a charm; all the things that I believe need to be replaced have been. I'm not going to be able to invest in another car for a while since I'm in college. Therefore, I'm going to need this car to last close to forever until I get a good job with some formidable income. I was wondering if there are any tips you could suggest for me to keep this thing running like the energizer bunny..? A: Add an auxiliary transmission cooler. Pick a core up at a junkyard for $5-15usd, two 5/16" brass T fittings, 8 small hose clamps, zip ties, 5/16" oil hose. Flush the transmission fluid every other year, or drain the pan every other oil change. Change the oil every 5,000 miles - 6 months for dino oil, 7500-10,000 miles - 10 months for good synthetics. If your engine is one that is prone to sludge, shorten the above intervals appropriately (see first post in this thread). Clean oil pan & screen, transmission pan & screen & change transmission filter every 5 years. Rotate tires every oil change, twice if you're using a long life synthetic. Clean the inside of the upper portion of the intake manifold, throttle plate, ISC/IAC valve(idle valve), and EGR valve yearly. Change differential fluid every four years. Flush the brake system with fresh DOT3, DOT4, or DOT4+/DOT5.1 every three years. Change the fluid in the power steering reservoir every year, or flush the power steering system every other year. Flush the cooling system every other year, or drain yearly. Change radiator cap<s> & thermostat every 5 years. Change PCV valve every 5 years. Change O2 sensor<s> before 100,000 miles accumulates. Change cat convertor before 100,000 miles accumulates. Change distributor cap & rotor every other spark plug change (120,000 miles). Check belts yearly, change belts when needed, change all belts (including timing belt) every 90,000 miles. Replace the water pump every other timing belt change. Otherwise, just keep track of things. Like CV boots, things you need to grease, seals that can leak etc. Use only NGK, or Denso spark plugs. Might as well be the generic $1 versions, as they last over the specified change time. If spark plug wires ever become damaged, only replace with OEM wires, or high quality wires. Lightly spray your CV boots with silicone lubricant when you're under the car for each oil change. Get as much of the surface shiny as you can. They will last a long time. Pay attention to the body lube points and check the torque the chassis bolts as recommended by Toyota. Make sure you use a high quality air filter. Some are very coarse and let in alot of abrasive dust. They do this in the name of high-performance, but other real hp filters are much better. Oil-wetted elements are the best (AMSOIL, TRD, etc). They actually trap the dust in the oil and prevent it from bouncing off the filter element. Wash off the bottom of the car, wheel wells, bottom of engine compartment, etc a couple of times after salt exposure in the winter. As long as it's really cold, the salt is not too harmful. Once it has warmed above freezing, wash it off as soon as you can, at least once. Wax your paint at least once a year before winter. More often is better. Use a good quality wax (I like Meguires, but there are alot of good ones). Get the carbon out of your combustion chambers periodically - maybe every 100k or so. SeaFoam is quite good for this. Adding some to the gas (or Techron) once in a while is a good idea to minimize deposits on the injectors. Watch all your fluid levels often. Even if they never change, if one of them suddenly start dropping, it is much better to catch it now than when something starts making noise. To state the obvious: Drive your car like you want it to last. Everything else being equal, the harder you drive it, the less miles it will have in it. (Thanks to Toysrme for alot of the above recommendations) See also hints in http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=449003
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09-07-2005, 12:48 PM | #26 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
INCREASING GAS MILEAGE
Q: How can I increase my gas mileage? A: Make sure you are using a fresh air filter. You may consider getting an oil-wetted filter from TRD or AMSOIL. They are very efficient, reusable after cleaning and re-oiling, and somewhat expensive. They are free-flowing compared with efficient paper filters and you can clean them as often as you like. I clean mine every 10k. The TRD filter is oil-wetted cotton and the AMSOIL filter is oil-wetted double layered plastic open cell foam. Tweak your AFM (on engines that have them instead of a MAF meter) as shown in: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...4&postcount=11 There is probably an optimum setting for gas mileage. Your engine may get better mileage with higher octane gas, particularly if you do alot of highway driving. Use higher octane gas for a few tankfuls when you are on a trip, keeping track of the mileage and gas used, and see if that makes any difference. If not, don't waste your money. Say the price of 87 octane is 30 cents cheaper than 89 octane and you get 20% better mileage (from 15 mpg to 18 mpg) with the 89 octane. If the price of gas for the 87 octane is $3.00/gal, then you are paying 10% more per gallon, while saving 20% in gasoline usage. This is a good bargain. If you break even, I would still use the higher octane gas. You have to do the math and the experiment on your truck. At some price, it will be worth it for some percent increase in mileage. In all honesty, you probably won't see a difference in mileage between the octanes, meaning you should use 87 octane. However, it doesn't cost much to try and you should know about it if your vehicle derives a benefit from the higher octane gas. Keep an eye on your ignition timing, idle speed, and wheel alignment. A high idle speed will cost you, as well as retarded ignition timing or bad alignment. Fill your tires with 4-6 more psi than that recommended in your door label. Low tire pressure will cost you. Don't fill the tires above the maximum psi labeled on the tire. Keep your injectors clean with a fuel additive periodically. Get any "Check Engine" light problem immediately. Many times you engine will default to a standard condition when a sensor goes bad. It gets you where you're going, but it is far from optimum as far as engine efficiency goes. Exhaust headers and lower restriction cat converters and mufflers will help your mileage to varying degrees. Buy stuff that you find has helped other Camry owners. I don't believe in cold air intakes. They are a waste of money IMO. Maybe some vehicles have poorly-designed intake systems and are helped by almost any mod. Yours is not one of them. Use 5W30 oil in your engine - possibly 0W30 or 5W20. I have heard they work fine, but I have not tried them myself. Those lower viscosity oils will certainly make a difference in your gas mileage. For additional hints and suggestions, see the following links: http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/r...fuelsaving.asp http://www.performancempg.com/lubric...el_mileage.htm (information on the above two sites authored by ctelsa)
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10-20-2005, 09:30 PM | #27 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
FIXING PAINT CHIPS AND SCRATCHES
Materials 1. Small bottle of the proper Toyota touch up paint and Toyota clear coat, if needed (Toyota metallic finishes are clearcoat; a non-metallic colors were not). 2. DuPont PrepSol (available from autobody supply). 3. Disposable touch-up microbrushes made by ProTouch (from an autobody supply). 4. 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound, Fine Cut (from an autobody supply). 5. Lacquer thinner to keep brush clean. 6. Wet-dry sandpaper: 1000 grit, 1500 grit, and 2000 grit (there is a new product out that is an alternative to wet sanding for use in auto touch ups - check it out at http://www.langka.com). Procedure - Scratches Use this procedure for long scratches and for large chips. 1. Use 1000 grit paper and wet-sand the scratch and the area around it. Make sure to use lots of water when sanding. This keeps scratching to a minimum. 2. Use DuPont Prepsol to clean wax off before touch-up. 3. Using microbrush and liberal amounts of paint, touch up the full-length of the scratch. As soon as the paint drys (10 minutes) do another coat. Repeat until you have done sufficient coats to have built a small mound of paint over the length of the scratch. 4. Let dry for 24 hours. 5. Now wet-sand the touched up surface with 1500 grit wet sandpaper. Sand in a front to rear motion since that's the direction the car is painted with, hence: you're going with the grain of the paint. Sand until you have eliminated the mound and any touchup paint outside of the scratch. 6. Clean area thoroughly and let dry. 7. Take a clean microbrush and begin to apply the clearcoat to the area. Don't be afraid to be liberal with it and don't try and keep the clearcoat within the scratch area. Apply approximately 3-4 coats, again until there is a small mound. Let it set and completely dry for 4-5 days. 8. Now, wet sand with 2000 grit wet sand paper. You will begin to see the clearcoated scratch blend into the rest of the paint - thus disappearing. (It produces a very gratifying feeling!) Procedure - Chips You can use this abbreviated procedure to fix the many small chips on the hood and front fascia. 1. Use 1000 grit paper and wet-sand the scratch and the area around it. Make sure to use lots of water when sanding. This keeps scratching to a minimum. 2. Use DuPont Prepsol to clean wax off before touch-up. 3. Using microbrush and liberal amounts of paint, touch up the chip. As soon as the paint drys (10 minutes) do another coat. Repeat until you have done sufficient coats to have built a small mound of paint over the expanse of the chip. 4. Let dry for 24 hours. 5. Wet sand with 2000 grit wet sand paper. You will begin to see the touch-up paint blend into the rest of the paint - nearly disappearing. The repairs are not noticable to passersby, and look much better than the chips did. Note: The clear coat on the flexible plastic parts doesn't rub back as well as the rest of the paint, probably due to the flex agents in the paint.. Adapted from a post to VetteNet by Doug Johnson, and to the Grand Prix mailing list by Paul Berndt.
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01-03-2006, 03:24 PM | #28 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
Torque Specifications
Q: I need torque specifications for the bolts in my 1988 Corolla. Where can I find this information? A: The torque specifications for bolts/fasteners in any '88 - '97 Corolla engine can be found at: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8016a3cd.jsp
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01-03-2006, 03:29 PM | #29 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information
Troubleshooting Camry Engine Mechanical Problems and Engine Performance Problems
Q: Where can I find a troubleshooting guide for my Camry engine? A: A guide for troubleshooting Corolla engine mechanical problems and engine performance problems can be found at Autozone: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8016a3cd.jsp
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03-08-2006, 04:21 PM | #30 | |
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Re: Camry FAQs and Information - SEARCH/READ HERE BEFORE POSTING
HOW TO CLEAN/DETAIL YOUR ENGINE
Here is a link on how to clean and detail your engine: http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=25
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