2003 chevy astro blower motor

[vanlanen]

Found a relay and harness all in one for $5.99. A little solder and shrink wrap tubing and the fan works like a charm!

Now on to the seconded issue. The systems keeps blowing air to the floor and won't switch to the dash vents. I found a one end of broken vacuum hose (small very thin plastic) under the hood, attaching to a rubber hose.... I guess I just have to hunt around for the end it broke off of and replace it. Too late to look tonight..that's one for another day.

Thanks again.

[old_master]

Glad you got the blower working. The HVAC air distribution defaults to the defrost position when there is a loss of vacuum to the control switch in the dash. You might have two problems going on. The HVAC gets vacuum through a small black plastic vacuum line that runs from the PCV valve on the driver side rocker arm cover, across the front of the engine to a vacuum reservoir below the washer reservoir, (inside the RF fender). From the reservoir ir runs to the control switch. There is a vacuum check valve/vacuum tee inline near the top of the A/C accumulator. Best to trash the entire plastic line and run new rubber line to repair it.

[vanlanen]

Actually got it fixed soon after posting... A visual inspection found the other end.

I cut back both ends to get rid of any cracks. Murphy was on my side for once and I found a piece of tubing the fix very snugly over the newly cut end and it worked like a charm. Will probably get some new tubing as you suggested but this will work until a get a chance to. Thanks again for all the help and advice.
I am sure it would have cost a least a couple of hundred dollars more if I took it in for the service!

[grampsVVV]

Some additonal photos (hope you can see 'em) and thanks, again, to the Old Master!

gramps

[courtroom74]

Hi there,

Very nice and detail instructions. I'm new to this forum and newbie from an auto repair perspective as well.
I have a similar problem with a 99 Astro. The fan switch on AC all works except on the last (right most) tic, high. When I switch there, fan is out. Can you let me know if your instruction here would apply to my Astro? Sound like I'm having the relay issue? If you can let me know exactly where it is located that would be great. I can never find a instruction or manual where all the parts supposed to be located. I have this problem "fixed" not long ago (maybe 1.5 years) and it cost me $200. I asked about what was replaced, but I really didn't get an answer so I don't think I'm taking it back again. I rather try to replace it myself if it's "simple" as it indicate here. Thanks in advance.

[old_master]

Originally Posted by courtroom74

Hi there,

Very nice and detail instructions. I'm new to this forum and newbie from an auto repair perspective as well.
I have a similar problem with a 99 Astro. The fan switch on AC all works except on the last (right most) tic, high. When I switch there, fan is out. Can you let me know if your instruction here would apply to my Astro? Sound like I'm having the relay issue? If you can let me know exactly where it is located that would be great. I can never find a instruction or manual where all the parts supposed to be located. I have this problem "fixed" not long ago (maybe 1.5 years) and it cost me $200. I asked about what was replaced, but I really didn't get an answer so I don't think I'm taking it back again. I rather try to replace it myself if it's "simple" as it indicate here. Thanks in advance.

Post #13 applies to your 99 Astro as well. The modification will bypass the OEM relay and upgrade to a much more substantial relay.

[courtroom74]

Hi old_master,

Point of clarification, in #13:
"First, make sure the small orange wire at the resistor/relay has battery voltage with the key on, mode switch on heat, and the blower switch in the high position."
To take the voltage measurement, I should place the red (+) probe (from meter) to the orange wire, and the black probe (-) to the car chassis? The reading could be anything >= 12 volt?
Thanks advance for your response.

[old_master]

That is correct, and your meter should indicate battery voltage.

[orlandoastro]

In need of some help. I also around 8 months ago had a connector that was burned on Pin 1 (Thick Orange) and Pin 3 (Black-ground I believe).
I replaced the blower motor resister and bought a new connector PT1134 and soldered it to harness. Everything worked great until yesterday.
I pulled the connector and it has burned at pin 3 (Black-Ground) and I am puzzled on what can be causing this failure
If anyone can help I would greatly appreciated. Thanks

[old_master]

High resistance in either the blower motor, or the blower motor ground near the motor, is what's causing the wiring to burn.

[orlandoastro]

Thanks for the reply. I recall also replacing the blower motor with connector and resistor as well. Do you happen to know location of blower motor ground near the motor and how to test? Thank you for your time.

[old_master]

There are two wires at the blower motor: The negative, (ground) wire goes to the body of the vehicle. Follow it as it leaves the motor, it will be a short wire and have an eyelet terminal with a bolt in it grounding it to the body of the vehicle. The connection must be clean and tight.

[orlandoastro]

Thanks again for the reply. The Only wires I see coming from the blower motor is the connector (red and black) that connects to the blower motor resistor. From there is the Main 6 pin connector.
If the Follow the Harness a good 30 inches or so I see an eyelet terminal to body. I checked connection from blower motor connector to blower motor resistor pin. then to
main connector pin 3 and then to ground eyelet and everything seems ok??

[old_master]

At the blower motor harness connector, check resistance on the black wire to a good clean chassis ground, must be less than 5 ohms.

[orlandoastro]

OldMaster,

Checked the connector to ground. Reading was 00.3 ohms.