Chopper 300

[joelwideqvist]

Originally Posted by cinqster

if you made up something similar with the correct spaced/sized notches you could cast a rubber belt form it using molding latex. I've been told you can dye it black for tyres etc.

Just a thought!

As said, I don't dare go in to casting, never know ehere it leads me... But I have gotten so tempted bout the idea of belt drive that I'm going to try something. I'll be back on that issue. Thanks for the inspiration John.

/Joel

[joelwideqvist]

Don't know if I ever mentioned this, but I hate molded in stuff. The more pieces the better. It helps in the painting process and of course it looks more realistic. Hate is a strong word, there are of course degrees even in hell... BUt if there is something about molded in stuff that i particulary dislike it is molded in hoses....WHY do they do that...?

On this particular model it is the oil filter hose that bothers me. I was thinking I'd better remove it and suddenly it all looked like this...



So, not just the hose, but the hole filter...yes, why not go all the way now that I admitted that it will not be a simple build.

Cleaned up a bit it looked like this, just need to fill the hole that was behind the filter.



As I'm learning more and more about choppers I'm finding a lot of cool features. I think I'll move the filter somewhere else, and make it a bit more fun than stock.

Another thing is the battery, that is put into the oil tank. I will fill the gap in the tank and move the battery somewhere else as well. Thought of using the battery from the Ducati 916 when I saw it in M.Boys fantastic WIP. But having another look it is a bit narrow. I´ll scratch something from the original top part...

/Joel

[joelwideqvist]

As I seem to be working on the whole bike at the same time I thought it would be best to take some time looking over the forks. The forks are pretty ugly with large pieces of plastic to hold the front fender and wheel. These parts will be a later problem to deal with, as for now I want to cut the slidig parts to ease painting. These run from the fork bottoms and all the way up through the tri clamp. You can see how it looks in an earlier picture. I cut the part at the bottom leg and at the triclamp, I also cut away the parts that is situated in between the higher and lower clamps. I then drilled a .5 mm hole as a guide and finally used a 3 mm drill. The original slides are 3.5 mm, I'll see if I go that big or stay at 3 mm.

This is how it looks.





Best regards
Joel

[Roca46]

Good progress Joel!

A hard work to fit/improve all those pieces. Coming really nice.

Keep on working

Roca.

[joelwideqvist]

I was studying the engine this evening and what did I find if not another little gem, the Revell interpretation of the oil cooler. With, molded in..., lines to the oil pump. The first marked with black arrow and the latter with blue. As you all already guessed, this piece of junk need to go. I'll be back with the result.



/Joel

[joelwideqvist]

Bike forum doesn't seem too crowded these days, too sunny to be stuck in front of the computer perhaps. Or are you too busy modelling?

Some more updates to the Chopper 300 build. Oil cooler was removed without any bigger hazzle, will scratch a new one and perhaps relocate it.

I have started the work on the rear softail damper. It is a progressive damper located underneith the transmission. For you that doesn't remember the kit plastic bump looks like this,



I split the parts up...



and I'm going to re-use the brackets. I drilled a whole in the center frame piece



and installed a piece of brass rod (it will be cut to correct length later)



In the swing cradle I cut a whole using micro drills to fit the mounting piece cut off earlier. I then drilled a whole through that piece too to fit the same type of brass rod.





All brackets where drilled and will be glued to two dimensions of tube when I get my hands on them from the hardware store. For now you will have to settle with a mock up using the original damper pieces.



Installed in the frame





Tank and oil tank has been sanded out and looks like this,



Two questions has emerged.

1. I need tips on how to make some weld seams on the oil tank edges and on the bottom of the gas tank.

2. I need your opinion on this gas tank lid. I got it years ago from Detail and design in scale (Where are you Dave??) but never used it cause the label sais 1/9th scale. But here it seems to fit doesn't it? Give me your onest opinion please.



Best regards
Joel

[rollin80s]

great progress. the gas lid might look better in the center of the tank. is that white metal? needs a a good polishing.

[Roca46]

What a brilliant progress!! I love to see all those pieces put together you're doing it really well Joel!

As for your questions:

1- I use a product which is simmilar to any putty with a fine nozzle to allow to make thin welds. On the other hand you may use Tamiya putty with a thin stick or Tamiya epoxy putty, put it to the bike and then give to the putty the shape of a weld.

2- I really like the tank lid!! But as rollin80s said I think it may look better on the center.

Roca.

Edit** I think that on the thread of my KR you will find what I explain about the welds anyway I will search it for you.

Edit Nº2*** I forgot that I done a cleanup to my FTP and I deleted those pictures, don't worry I will take new ones this weekend. I will post them here if you want.

[Roca46]

Hi Joel,

Here is what I use for the welds. I prefer the putty tube (blue) than the other tube.





Also you can use a small stick



You may try to do it with Tamiya putty.

Roca.

[joelwideqvist]

Many thanks for that how-to Roca, I will try it out soon. Thanks again for taking your time.
I'm starting to think the lid is a tad bit too large after all... Moving it to the center will rule out another feature I had in mind. Perhaps I'll just go with a small screw on cap made of styrene, or why not a lid from a streetbike high end street bike...

And to you Rollin80, yes it is white metal and as I hate white metal almost as much as molded in hoses it will not be polished but painted.
/Joel

[joelwideqvist]

Got some goodies from Mediamix today, stuff that will go into this build are,

* Braided line
* Fittings for above
* Tachometer



/Joel

[joelwideqvist]

Started re-working the transmission today. As the build includes a 300 mm rear tyre (in scale...) I've learnt that you use a right side secondary drive to get the weight balance right. Here is an example, the Baker 300:



As the kit provides a small tranny that almost doesn't reach the middle of the frame, there is time for some serious scratching. Here is what I start with:



I used masking tape to cut a guide from the original;



And started cutting from 3 mm styrene. Each layer was added to the original using superglue. Here with 2 layers added;



To get the tranny lined up with the frame it took five pieces of styrene;



from this I will sand it down to follow the original shape and then scratch a cover for the right side.



I don't know what to do with the left side though. As the kit has a left side secondary drive train the inner pulley cover has an indention where the chain is to hook up on the transmission. As the kit has a thinner rear tyre the chain goes on the inside of the frame moving the transmission further to the right. On a real bike using a wide rear tyre this indention wouldn't be there and the transmission would be quite a bit more to the left. I think it will inolve too much work to fix this so I'm thinking I'll just fill it up and hope it doesn't look too bad.

/Joel

[ketje]

Originally Posted by joelwideqvist

Two questions has emerged.

1. I need tips on how to make some weld seams on the oil tank edges and on the bottom of the gas tank.

2. I need your opinion on this gas tank lid. I got it years ago from Detail and design in scale (Where are you Dave??) but never used it cause the label sais 1/9th scale. But here it seems to fit doesn't it? Give me your onest opinion please.


Best regards
Joel

Hey Joel, looking good so far.

I use plastic sprue to make the seld seams. It's the same technique some of our tank modellers use.

First heat some plastic sprue and stretch it to the needed thickness.
Then you glue it in place using some Tamiya or Humbrol glue.
Afterwards you use some of the Tamiya or Humbrol glue to smear on the whole piece of sprue you put on your model. This will soften the plastic sprue. When it is soften enough you can use a toothpick or something else to push in the welds.
I find this the easiest way and it looks good at the end.

Have fun and let me know if you like the technique.


By the way, I like the gas tank lid. It's looks great on the gastank.

[Roca46]

Great progress on that scratch work! Nice parts you bought from Mediamix . It's very hard to make those scratch parts but I'm sure you're enjoying with that

Originally Posted by ketje

Hey Joel, looking good so far.

I use plastic sprue to make the seld seams. It's the same technique some of our tank modellers use.

First heat some plastic sprue and stretch it to the needed thickness.
Then you glue it in place using some Tamiya or Humbrol glue.
Afterwards you use some of the Tamiya or Humbrol glue to smear on the whole piece of sprue you put on your model. This will soften the plastic sprue. When it is soften enough you can use a toothpick or something else to push in the welds.
I find this the easiest way and it looks good at the end.

Have fun and let me know if you like the technique.


By the way, I like the gas tank lid. It's looks great on the gastank.

Nice tip ketje! I will take note. Thank's!!

Roca.

[joelwideqvist]

I FINALLY got some metal rod in the mail today. I've been looking in every hardware store I know around here and on most modeling sites on the web (local that is) to find the right dimensions. Now I can move on with this project.

I've also decided to go with belt drive as secondary, some scratching will be needed of course and I started the rear pulley by cutting the spokes off the kit chain and install them into a piece of round plastic tube. Photos are comming. I'm thinking on how I can build a housing for the front pulley but that can wait a bit more.

/Joel