2000 Trooper engine problems

[trooperbrett]

Hi all,
About my 2000 Trooper, it started about 2 weeks ago, I drove my wifes Trooper and noticed it was running rough. I added an injector cleaner, 2 days after that the CEL came on. Found your forum and followed advice from many posts...cleaned EGR and PCV, which seemed to work for awhile but it always went back to running rough. Went to Autozone and got these codes:
p1290, p0171, p0174, p0175, p1340 (2X), p0300 (2X)
Fuel metering, too lean, too rich, and misfires. Went to check the spark plugs but can't get the boots out of the head and at over $100 each I can't afford new coils if/when I tear them up (can I take the valve covers off to get to the spark plugs?) So I changed the intake manifold gaskets and the fuel filter last night (only two hours, not bad, huh?). It was running REAL bad before I changed the intake gaskets (passenger side was in 4 pieces), coughing, bucking, and missing and runs better now BUT it misses after running a couple of minutes, and gets worse the longer I drive it and has no power. The CEL blinks under any acceleration after the first couple of minutes, and you can feel it miss. I have cleaned the EGR valve several more times, but no change. Could the spark plugs cause this? Maybe the injector cleaner loosened something in the fuel line that cloged an injector? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[amigo-2k]

How many miles?

What codes do you have after the changing the IMG?

Link to plug how to:
http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq15

The key to get the coil and boots off (it is 2 peices, so don't freak when they come apart) is to twist, twist, twist and then twist and pull. Get your fingers under the coil and do this.

For real stuck coils ( I had one) I use a loop of string (see my gallery photos here).

You cleaned up the EGR and PVC which is good. But did you clean up the EGR port? It is behind the butterfly (see the FAQ for a how to).

Once you have the codes you may find out you have a bad coil. If you swap the coils around you pin point which coil is bad.

Also, with you recent injector cleaning you are correct that you could of freed up some junk. I know there was post here about a simular problem and the owner knocked on the fuel rail (while running with a wrench?) and the engine smoothed out.

A flashing CEL is bad news. It means that there is some serious missfireing ongoing and it is really hard on the Cats and O2's.

Steps forward:

1. Need the codes.
2. Try the knock on the fuel rail trick
3. clean the Egr port
4. Reset the ECU (pull the battery connections for 15 minutes).
5. clean up the battery body ground points (the ground point on the alt too).
6. change the plugs (see the faq's for the right plugs).


report back and We'll help get'er back on the road.

-Ryan

[trooperbrett]

It has about 56000 miles, and haven't been back to Autozone, it'll probably have to wait till Saturday.

[amigo-2k]

see the above (I was editing while you wrote again).

[amigo-2k]

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ight=fuel+rail

here is the fuel rail thing.

[travelman]

You have been getting some EXCELLENT advice so far. I only have two additions.

As I understand your situation, when you remove the coil pack the boot stays in place. If the string tip doesn't work do you have a manual tire pump? If so I have read about using that to help pop the boot. You put the end over the boot and seal it with your free hand and give the pump a little push. Maybe a little duct tape or a nozzle tip like you would use to fill an air mattress may help seal the tube better and help it pop more easily??? Again just something I read that may or may not work.

Also, to help prevent this in the future, once you get them off you may want to add some dielectric grease to the plug top/tube bottom.

[rodeo02]

Have you ruled out all vacuum leaks at this point? Make sure you cannot hear or feel any vacuum leaks around the common chamber. Are they the original spark plugs? The reason I ask is, if you use anything other than denso spark plugs in a 2000+ 3.2/3.5 you will get random misfires and all sorts of problems. This could also be a mass air flow sensor issue, where a bad MAF is really messing with the fuel trim. The MAF comes into play more when the vehicle has come up to temp, which would make sense as you described it runs better when cold. Just some thoughts!
G/luck
Joel

[trooperbrett]

OK, Cleaned the EGR port in the intake plenum, knocked on the fuel rail, reset the ECU by unhooking the battery for 15+ minutes. Sent my wife (she asked what she could do) to Autozone and they said come back tomorrow, BUT when I turned the engine over to move it into the garage...NO CEL!!! Still runs rough though, and after putting gas in (premium, to see if it would help) it started running better, so I went to the off ramp and floored it, and blinking CEL. But it runs a little better. Looks like plugs next? The ones in it are the originals. Also, what is a Mass Airflow Sensor and where is it? Can it be replaced? Expensive? After this I don't think I'll be timid about working on this thing anymore! And also, thanks a million for all the help! It is greatly appreciated. I have belonged to several VW Old Beetle forums in the past and no one has come close to this forum for useful and forthright information.
Thanks again,
Brett

[amigo-2k]

are you the orginal owner? All gaskets (including the IMG) are covered for 10yr 120k first owner, and 6yr 60k second owner. If you come up with a code for a bad IMG let isuzu change it out on their dime.

If you are not the first owner then maybe the previous owner put bosch +4 plugs in (Isuzu's don't like these plugs).

The Mass air flow sensor is right next to the air filter.

good link on it:
http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq62

A new one costs 150 bucks.

If you are running a K+N air filter the oil from it can coat the wires of the MAF.

It still sounds like a bad IMG. Did you torque em correctly right?

http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq70

And yes, Isuzu owners are a unique bunch of people.

Photo of my Isuzu and my VW:

[trooperbrett]

I am the original owner BUT on a trip to Missouri in the fall of '03, my wife seized the motor, you guessed it, no oil. No help from the factory either. We had to get a used one installed. I've rebuilt SEVERAL VW motors so I know the importance of correct torque values and tightening sequences, so I did it like it says, crisscross inner then outer, 16 ft. lbs., sneaked up on it about 3 times before I got to 16. I haven't checked it with water or carb cleaner AFTER I replaced them though, I will tomorrow. Maybe I can get Autozone to help with a reading too. I guess I don't really know what plugs are in it, but it ran fine for a year and a half on the ones in it. Can they start causing problems after that long?

Thanks,
Brett
P.S...Cool rims on the bug! Ragtop is cool too!

[amigo-2k]

I would at least pull a plug (10 minute job) to see what it is and report back.

[rodeo02]

Brett, I wouldn't suspect the spark plugs if it ran fine with no CEL for 6 months, but you never know . I would look into the MAF first. Like Ryan says, its right up near the outlet of the airfilter box, clamped to the air intake hose. Do you know anyone with a late model isuzu? If you could swap MAF's with them for testing, that would be the best route. 2nd thing I'd check is make 100% sure you have no vac leaks.
G/luck!
Joel

[trooperbrett]

Got the spark plugs out, the boots needed two complete turns to get out! The plugs are Denso, and brown, and electrodes are in good shape. I took out the MAF and wiped the back part out, it looked dusty, DID NOT GET NEAR TINY WIRES! Blew out the front screen with compressed air ( can it be cleaned better?). Put it back in and drove three blocks to get my kids, no change. This morning when I was checking the spark plugs I realized I did not hook MAF plug back in, did that and runs better. Still not perfect, stumbles off idle and at constant speed and part throttle on the highway. BUT it shifts better and I can get it to downshift without putting the throttle to the floor. Read a post about putting Techron injector cleaner in, and have had that product recomended to me, so I put some of that in. After I drive it I will report back.

Thanks again for the help,
Brett

[amigo-2k]

I would plug the MAF back in and get the codes read.

another good post:


http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3324&

[trooperbrett]

I plugged the MAF back in as soon as I saw it loose, The codes are:
P0102- MAF frequency low, P0300-Misfire
After Autozone we had lunch, during which I unplugged the battery to reset the codes, then went to run some errands ( city and highway) to see if the CEL comes back on or blinks...so far so good, no lights, blinking or otherwise. Still runs rough. Tried the carb cleaner around the intake manifold but nothing changed.

Still hoping for a fix,
Brett