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Old 10-04-2005, 05:58 PM   #16
95GMCJimmySLE
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ok, a new problem has arisen.

I got the gasket with a screen and went to install everything. One of the holes are stripped. I don't know what someone did to this thing but it's screwed. I was thinking about trying to retap the holes to a 9mm x 1.25 and then open the holes on the EGR valve slightly to fit a 9mm bolt through.

Is this my only option or is there another way to fix this problem?
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Old 10-04-2005, 09:39 PM   #17
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Re: replacing EGR Valve?

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Originally Posted by 95GMCJimmySLE
ok, so once I finished reinstalling the EGR, pull the fuse for 15 min. If that doesn't do it then I can just rent a scan tool from AutoZone and that can erase the code.

How will I know if pulling the fuse worked or not without renting the scan tool? Or should I just rent the scan tool while I'm at AutoZone buying the screened gasket just to be safe?

Is that scan tool easy to use? I might have some more questions on how to use it once I get the EGR reinstalled and that tool rented. I hope you don't mind if I ask you more questions about the scan tool if I have any problems.

Thanks for you help thus far.
im not sure what brand of scanner autozone has; it may be snap on. i have used snap-on and accron scanners. the cable plugs into the obd 2 port under the dash on the driver's side. they are handheld and have prompts on the screen to tell u what to do. pulling the fuse will turn the light off but u can't tell if the code has been erased or not. i scan it just to make sure there are no new problems with the truck; for my peace of mind. if u have anymore questions feel free to ask. i'm sure i or someone else can answer them.
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Old 10-05-2005, 06:50 AM   #18
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ok, thanks. When I get to that point I'll be sure to ask if I have any problems.

But right now I'm trying to figure out how I am going to fix the stripped hole. Is my only option to just tap it out with a larger size? I figure that would be better than trying to redrill it and then inserting a threaded plug of some sort.

I'm figuring a 9mm tap should work, I just have to look through a couple catalogs here at work to see if they sell one long enough. My tap handle is too big to fit into the space with a standard length tap. So I figure a 6" or 7" tap should work to get the tap handle into an open spot where I can work with it easier.

What do you think of this idea?
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Old 10-05-2005, 08:14 AM   #19
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Re: replacing EGR Valve?

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What do you think of this idea?
Re-tapping sounds like your best option. There should be enough material on the egr valve to drill out to larger size. Let us know how it works.
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Old 10-05-2005, 08:43 AM   #20
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Re: replacing EGR Valve?

Helicoil make a insert you can drill the hole out and put the insert in and stay with the same sise bolt or you can change it over to a regular sae bolt.
Depending on what helicoil kit you use metric or sae.
The hardest part is getting the having enough room to drill it out.
On the tap you can use a wrench instead of the tap handel in a tight space.
Good luck
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Old 10-05-2005, 09:48 AM   #21
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I just got done speaking with the machine shop foreman and he suggested trying Keensert.

Finding a long 9mm tap doesn't look promising for starters.

Or, a tap extension would cost ~$20 and I'm not sure if it's to big in diameter to fit inbetween the obsticles.

Helicoils are a good option but the special tools needed make that kind of an expensive venture for a one time thing. That and the fact that the special tap needed may be too hard to tap into the hole because it may be too short to fit into the area in which I have to work in.

The other option he suggested was to use a Keensert. It's much like a Helicoil but it doesn't require a special tap. It only requires a 7/16-14 tap and matching drill to open the hole. Those I'm sure I can find in extended lengths. Plus, at my work we have Keenserts in SAE sizes and a 5/16-18 would fit great. Wouldn't have to open the hole on the EGR but I would have to keep the bolts seperate since they would be very similar. So since my work has some Keenserts I would only have to buy a long 7/16-14 tap and a long drill and then I can use one of the 5/16 Keenserts and driver tool from work.

Here is a picture of a Keensert incase you don't know what it looks like.


I'm thinking I might go the Keensert route. What do you think of the Keensert idea?
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Old 10-05-2005, 10:12 AM   #22
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Re: replacing EGR Valve?

I have never used them but the picture looks a lot like a helicoil inset. If you have the tools for the keensert go for it.
Good luck
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Old 10-05-2005, 10:32 AM   #23
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They do look very similar to Helicoils. I don't know what really holds Helicoils in the hole but these have "spikes" that hold it in place. You drill and tap the hole with the correct size and then thread the Keensert into the hole. Once the face is flush, take the special drive tool and drive the "spikes" into the sides of the hole. This prevents the Keensert from rotating as you put in/take out the bolt.

I just got done looking in a Production Tool catalog and found a 7/16-14 tap thats 6" OAL for $12 and a U drill thats 6 3/4" OAL for $6. I'll go home after work and measure to make sure those lengths will work. If so, then tomorrow on my way home from work I'll stop and pick them up and give it shot.

I really hope this works.
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Old 10-07-2005, 08:48 AM   #24
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FINALLY!

I went to Production Tool yesterday after work and bought a 12" long 3/8" drill and a 6" long spiral point 7/16-14 tap. Total cost was $26 and some change.

Went home and drilled the hole out bigger. Tapped the hole. Neither were hard at all. But the fun was about to begin.

Started putting the Keensert into the hole and had a hell of a time getting it to thread in there. Finally got it to go in but had a hard to turning it because of the area I had to work with. Got it most of the way but then it just didn't want to go anymore and I tapped well through the part so I knew it was tapped far enough.

I tried a bunch of things to get it in without damaging the spikes. Finally I put the 8mm bolt into the 5/16 Keensert hoping it would bind up enough to turn the Keensert in but not get stuck. Well, it sorta worked but when I backed the 8mm bolt out so came the Keensert. So I got the bolt out of the and reinserted the Keensert. This time the Keensert went all the way in.

I tried to drive the spikes down with the special tool but because the the space I had to work with that proved to be very difficult. I finally decided to drive each one in seperately with a puch. 3 went in fine but the fourth was a pain. It bent and I was running out of time. I finally got it down and proceeded to install the EGR.

I put everything back together and took it for a test drive. It drove nice a smooth with a nice smooth idle. The SES light is out but I don't know if the code is erased or not yet. I haven't rented the tool from AutoZone yet. Once I do you'll probably know because I might have some questions. Hopefully I won't but just giving you warning.

I would have taken pictures of the proccess but I was pressed for time. My moms boyfriend had my cordless power tools from when he was building his hunting blind and he needed them again for this weekend so he could finish a couple things on it while he was up there hunting. So I had to get those to my mom to give to him today before he left to go hunting.

I would like to thank everyone for their help in fixing this problem. The shop wanted to charge $325 for it and even with the additional cost of the drill and tap I was able to do it for only $40, saving my girl friend a bunch.
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Old 10-07-2005, 08:52 AM   #25
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oh, almost forgot.

As I was driving the spikes in, I dropped the special tool. It fell behind where the EGR mounts. So as I was getting it out I found a nut just sitting there. At first I didn't understand why. Then later as I was thinking about it I figured it must have been on the back of the bolt that was holding the EGR on. Whoever stripped it must have just held a nut back there and tightened it the best they could.

Doesn't mean much to this thread but just thought I would share.
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Old 10-07-2005, 11:09 AM   #26
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Re: replacing EGR Valve?

Good work well done.
Thanks for posting the out come of getting it fixed.
Glad you got it fixed.
If the light does not come back on the computer will clear the code itself after so many starts without seeing a problem.
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Old 10-07-2005, 01:38 PM   #27
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cool, thanks. Good to know.
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