INTAKE GASKET MAIN PAGE, PLEASE POST Q'S&A'S HERE!

[promoguy]

What did the job cost?

[Huney1]

"What did the job cost?" My half was $288.00 out of pocket. Fortunately the Honda dealership is a stand up business and even tho' our Y2K Venture had no warranty they paid half. Honda sends the independent shop a lot of business on their trade in used car repairs, so they cut us some slack and I was more than happy to get it done for $288.

[C-Lpilot]

I have a 2001 Pontiac Montana with about 109,000 miles on it. I noticed that I was over heating and filled the res tank up. It was good for a while then I noticed it was doing it again. I then checked the radiator cap and found oil on the cap. I also noticed a leak coming somewhere from the engine. There is no water in the oil yet.
How can I tell if it's the intake gasket of the head gasket?

[Huney1]

The most probable cause would be a blown head gasket because overheating is the number one cause of blown head gaskets. When the engine is running, there's more pressure in the oil system and combustion chambers than in the cooling system and an opening/crack between the head gasket & coolant would usually result in oil being added to the cooling system.

The mechanic should scrutinize the engine block to make certain there are no cracks in the cylinder walls, and check the cylinder head for cracks and warpage. The head gasket seats between the block and the head and there are 2 heads on your engine. If the block is cracked, then you will need a short block, and possibly rebuilt heads as well. Definitely get a new radiator cap because worn out caps and low coolant levels are two of the most common causes of overheating. Another big no-no is putting cold water in an overheated or hot engine that can cause the hot block or heads to warp or crack. If it overheats best let it sit an hour with the hood open and cool off, then *slowly* add coolant. CAUTION! NEVER REMOVE THE CAP FROM A HOT RADIATOR BECAUSE YOU COULD BE SERIOUSLY SCALDED AND BURNED.

"I also noticed a leak coming somewhere from the engine." Oil in the coolant AND a leak from the engine? Simply put, that ain't good. Is it leaking coolant, engine oil or tranny fluid? Overheating can cause multiple problems so it's possible you have a blown head gasket AND leaking intake manifold gasket.

A leaking transmission cooler in the radiator could cause an mix of tranny fluid and coolant, but ATF is reddish-pink and would give a distinctive color to the coolant milkshake.
A word to the wise; Get in the habit of raising the hood(s) every Saturday morning and check all fluid levels and do a good look around under the hood because the three or four minutes you spend with your engine could well pay big dividens. Good luck and hope the repairs aren't to expensive.

[C-Lpilot]

Thank's for the fast reply. I was wondering if anyone was still posting here.
I added Bar's Stop Leak yesterday. It over heat just a little but after than everything was back to normal. I am hoping that is was an air pocket. So far no leaks and I am hoping to get away with doing the intake gasket myself. From these other guy's post it looks like I can do it myself. I am pretty handy around cars and did all my own brake jobs and small stuff. I have a nicely stocked tool box but will need to get the 10mm Crow's feet.

[Huney1]

In My opinion, Bars Leak works and you might have had an air pocket in the cooling system. Loosen the two brass screws on either side of the front valve cover and let any trapperd air out, just two or three turn is all it takes with a moderately warm engine. Be sure you get a new radiator cap, 7 to 15 pound should do it.

[hufhouse]

I changed my intake manifold gasket a few weeks ago. Before the change, I had the oil tested and there was potassium and sodium and water and fuel in the oil.

I just got back the results of the test AFTER changing the gasket, and there is no longer fuel or water in the oil, but there are actually HIGHER levels of potassium and sodium (indicators of coolant) in the oil.

Could this be residual stuff working its way out? My reservoir hasn't gone down a millimeter since I did the gasket change!

[Wardrivr]

Hi all, I'm new here. I'm on my second intake manifold gasket replacement. I had a '99 Olds Silhouette and we liked it so much that when we had 75k miles on it we decided to buy a new 02 Silhouette. Up to that point we hadn't had any trouble with the '99 and I had not heard of the IMG curse. I kept the '99 as a third vehicle and the IMG went around 95k miles. That was about 18 Months ago. When I replaced it I used the Felpro gasket from Advance autoparts. Now my '02's IMG need replacing at 55k miles and I'm wondering if the Felpro is the way to go. Does anyone know who carries a gasket that's of the improved design to prevent leaks? Is there a problem with the Felpro gasket?

[Huney1]

Welcome aboard Wardrivr. The FelPro gasket is the only one to use and there is a TSB out on what parts to use and manifold bolt torqueing method. I'm dog tired now but tomorrow I'll find the TSB and you can print it out.

[Huney1]

Subject: Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket)
TSB #03-06-01-010B - (10/24/2003)

Models: 2000-2003 Buick Century
2002-2003 Buick Rendezvous
1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV
1997-2003 Chevrolet Venture
1999-2001 Chevrolet Lumina
1999-2003 Chevrolet Malibu, Monte Carlo
2000-2003 Chevrolet Impala
1996-2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette
1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1996-1999 Pontiac Trans Sport
1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am, Montana
2000-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
2001-2003 Pontiac Aztek
with 3.1L or 3.4L V-6 Engine (VINs J, E - RPOs LG8, LA1)




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to change the model Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-01-010A (Section 06 - Engine).


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Condition
Some owners may comment on an apparent oil or coolant leak. Additionally, the comments may range from spots on the driveway to having to add fluids.

Cause
Intake manifold may be leaking allowing coolant, oil or both to leak from the engine.

Correction
Install a new design intake manifold gasket. The material used in the gasket has been changed in order to improve the sealing qualities of the gasket. When replacing the gasket, the intake manifold bolts must also be replaced and torqued to a revised specification. The new bolts will come with a pre-applied threadlocker on them.

Notice: An oil leak may result if the vertical bolts are not tightened before the diagonal bolts.

Diagonal bolts may require a crows foot to tighten.

Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 7N·m (62 lb in).
Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 7N·m(62 lb in).
Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 13N·m(115 lb in).
Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 25N·m(18 lb ft).

Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty

89017279 Intake manifold Gasket 1

11588915 Intake manifold bolt - short 4

11588914 Intake manifold bolt - long 4


Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

[Wardrivr]

Thanks for the info Huney1. I don't remember if the gasket came with the revised torque procedure or if I used the spec in the Haynes manual. My only concern now is if there's a head gasket leak. The '99 leaked coolant outside the engine, but this time it's different. My wife told me the low oil level warning came on the last time she drove it. I checked under the hood and there was barely any oil on the dipstick. I found the missing oil in the cooling system. I drained the cooling system and filled it with plain water. The water then found its way into the crankcase because the level in the crakcase came way up and when I drained the oil a lot of water came out first. Is there a way a leaky head gasket will be apparent (plugs?) without pulling the heads? I'd hate to put it all back together only to find out I need to change the head gaskets.

[Huney1]

Friday the 14th the battery died and I replaced it, then Wednesday the AC fan motor started slowing down and speeding up, so I figure the alternator or fan motor is going. I've fought this beast long enough and I'm sorry but life is to short to hassel with a darn vehicle of any kind. I've spent many hours and a lot of money trying to get it where I can go just one month without having to fix something or spend more money on it, but I get it fixed then something else goes out and it just doesn't work for me, so I pass and move to greener pastures.

As I have said many times, I like Fords and Hondas so I traded the Venture in on a very nice 03 Tarus and no longer have the Venture cross to bear and therefore bid you adieu. You are a good group and I have very much enjoyed this forum and henceforth will participate the Taurus forum. Best of everything to you and be well.
Huney1 - Over & out. . . . .

[Geoff Hale]

This site is great, it inspired my to do the intake on my 2000 Venture this past weekend.
It took about 15 hrs (I'm in IT, not a mechanic) following the steps posted by CDRU, as they were way better than the Haynes manual I paid $23 for. Rotate the engine: I turned the driver motor mount around and tied a rope from the lift.
FOR CANADIAN OWNERS, there is now a class action suit for this issue (couldn't wait, and couldn't afford the dealers $1150, but maybe I'll recoup later?) http://www.classproceedings.ca/
Really hoping I don't have to do the head later....

[1Bradymichael]

I have a 2000 Montana, and have the service manual for the 97 Venture's, etc, so can I use the old manuals?
Or do I need to buy the newer one's?

I only worry about the torque specs and sequence being the same.
I can do the job myself but don't want to leave anything important like that out!

I have a feeling the specs are the same as I see that the Hayes manual covers 1997-2001 for these body vans and I would like to think they are up to date on any changes

[jadecker]

How do you remove the alternator bracket on 3.1 V6 SFI. I have already remove three bolts and it is still tight on there. Is there a hidden bolt that I cannot see? Thanks.