Impala Dies while driving.

[PMD69]

2000 Impala 3.4 208??? miles. Replaced head gaskets, intake gaskets fuel take sending unit, EGR valve plugs, wires, ing. coil packs, and many other parts.
I got a DTC 452 which took me to the fuel tank pressure sensor. Ordered that part and it will be in today. During testing last night I took the Tech2 home and got 1.47 volts to the sensor. The car ran great for 30 min. at home. Took the car out for a drive and about a mile down the road car died. Restarted without a problem and about half a block died again, this time I noticed the brake light and batt. came on first then it died with the security light flashing. The lights on the instrument cluster are very dim in the prnd21 area. I don't know if replacing the fuel tank pres. sensor will help with the stalling issue. Any ideas out there. Thanks.....The rear brakes are due to be replaced..

[Tech II]

P0452 should not contribute to stalling.....If no other codes, Clean throttle plate and bore, and the IAC pintle and mating passageway....

[PMD69]

I got some more parts for the car last night so I will be working in it during the weekend. Tie rods both sides inners outers along with the pesky fuel tank pressure sensor. The tech II said it failed three times on one cycle. The voltage stayed the same throughout. That is the only code I have for the car, so I will start there, however I do agree that it most likely is not the reason for the dieing out issue. It is past time to clean the fuel system so that will get done this weekend. The tech II went to our other shop so I will be using the solus for what I can. I am hoping it is not the BCM, I think it is getting time to trade so I don't want to dump too much money on this repair, but I cant have it dieing on us in the mean time. Thanks for getting back to me Tech II.

[Tech II]

Couple questions.....

Does it die when hot or cold? Does it restart right away?

There are several common causes for a stall......

Dirty throttle plate and bore.....

Dirty IAC pintle....

Bad IAC....

Bad harness(connection or wire) to IAC.....

Dirty MAF sensor.....use MAF sensor cleaner on the sensor.....

Bad MAF......

Leaking fuel pressure regulator(pull vac line and look for fuel in it)......

Partially plugged fuel filter.......

[PMD69]

The car dose not or at least has not died until normal operating temp. has been reached, and it will start up right away. I have seen a lot of posts about having to wait five or ten min., but this will start in neutral as I am coasting after the stall. When I bring it to the shop in the morning I will run a fuel system clean and check the MAF and fuel or air spots. The electrical has been a problem in the past and I had to replace a pin in the main connector by the water pump pulley. I will recheck all those as well. More heat = more resistance. That could be the ticket there. Would a bad MAF or IAC set a code, because I am not getting any other codes? Thanks

[Black_Blade]

I wonder if there might be a chaffed wire causing you to have your crank sensor or cam sensor signal to be lost for a split second, enough to stall out the car maybe. Have you had the fuel pressure checked? Wondering about a weak fuel pump or as mentioned above restriction from clogged fuel filter..

[PMD69]

I replaced the fuel pump with an AC Delco one about a year and a half ago. Still I have not checked the pressure since then. Plugs, wires and coil packs are about the same age as the fuel pump. The car runs great until it reaches operating temp traveling at slow speeds, such as coming off a stop. I suspected the MAF seeing how it is now 16 years old, so I replaced it with a Dorman MAF. The fuel mileage has gotten better, but the car still stutters when coming off a start sometimes. I was thinking cam or crank sensors but not sure. Overall this is a good car with new tires, brakes and heads redone 2 yeas ago. I am not ready to give up on this car just yet. Thanks for the help, I will check these other things and replace the fuel filter tomorrow.