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Old 10-20-2008, 11:41 PM   #1
civic guy
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h22 swap

i need a guide 4 a h22 swap 4 a 88-91 prelude
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Old 10-21-2008, 09:44 PM   #2
H23A1Lude
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Re: h22 swap

H22 5-speed tranny
ECU
Custom wiring harness
Custom mounts
Custom axles (a combination of h22 axles and your axles)
Half shaft
An OEM or watever clutch kit
Custom intake piping
And all hoses for the engine of course.


Things to look for when engine arrives;
ECU P13 with male plugs
Alternator and power steering pump.
Rear engine mount
Transmission with Half Shaft (intermediate shaft)

Things you will need to purchase:
PRI engine mounts for the conversion.
PRI Shift cable adapter; It was a super tight fit I had to shave some head room off of the rear mount to give slack to the cables.
Optional PRI ECU harness $$
Optional axles from PRI. Honda Accord axles 92-96 are believed to fit.
A 90-91 drivers side mount bracket est. $20 from Honda.
Extra wires and plugs from radio shack.
MAP sensor and Resistor Block [peak and hold, low resistance/impedance](You can use the 3rd gen but it will require rewiring because it will not be the same harness adapter) or get them on ebay like I did for $5-10.
USDM Fuel Rail (because the JDM sits opposite). Got one off ebay from any prelude 92+ h22 and f22 should be the same*. A custom pulley belt that bypasses the AC compressor (alternator to crank only belt) 36inch 6 groove (630k6)(6pk0915)(6CANx91,5cm)
USDM fuel rail h22 or f22 can be used. [img]

Things recommended doing on the h22a before starting the swap;
Change the timing belt and tensioner.
Change the water pump and thermostat.
Change the oil
Lapp the valves with a feeler gauge back to spec.
Change the spark plugs
Change the distributor cap.
Install new oil seals for the tranny
Install a new oil pan gasket.
Install a new fuel filter and oil filter installed.
Install some headers.

Parts that need adjusting;
Rear engine mount holes need to be moved forward (toward front of the vehicle) and outwards by a 3-5mm. You can detach the bracket and line it up to see where you need to extend the holes. That will make it easier. Toss the adapter plate that PRI gave you, it is useless.
Tranny mount is fine but he hole for the mount needs to be moved ¾ inch toward the passenger side. Driver’s side mount holes needs also be cut toward engine so that motor can sit as far passenger side as possible. Look here for how close the motor sits toward the drivers side even with all the adjustments. Test fitting the motor by “dipping” it in the engine bay prior to and cutting is highly recommended. Bolt the tranny mount and the motor will fall into place as long as the hoist is connected do not let it fall below level. Make your pre cut/drill markings.

Things to look out for;
Aftermarket headers might (will from my RActive Headers) contact front cross member depending on your adjustment on the engine mounts and fit.
Alternator sits close to the fans so trim the fan brackets before you drop the motor in.

Not necessary but recommended;
Take out the radiator and fans for better clearance when dropping in the motor.
Some people hammer away at the driver side wall for p/steering belt and pulley clearance.
Some shimming of metal off the rear cross member. Incase the mounts get worn the engine will not piviot or vibrate onto any parts that’s normally close to the motor. Specifically the tranny rear hoist bracket.
Some cut away at the top of the front cross member under where the slave cylinder for the clutch release for clearance. Because the engine pivots during hard acceleration might cause the cylinder to bang against the cross member. Besides the cylinder sits very close!
If your vehicle is extremely lowered you must bend the radius rod lower on the driver side otherwise it will slam into the crank pulley during hard bumps and that will cause severe damage to the motor!

Things “not” to do before dropping the motor in;
Do not install the header, crank pulley, alternator, power steering, or AC compressor, prior to dropping the motor into the engine bay. It complicates things. Make shure to shave off areas you need because it will be a tight fit and the motor will pivot when running and every ounce of clearance is important. I even cut/shaved the rear cross member for "extra clearance" in referece to the oil filter. Otherwise it will be hard to get to during an oil change IMO.

Optional P.S.
You will need to cut the line and weld it to your stock line up where the pulley is. I have done this with success but ended up eliminated P.S. because there was little to no room for the reservoir to sit along side the cruise control. Also the pump contacts the frame. I cut a hole and shave some metal for room but it is still millimeters from the hood rod. Not a good Idea since the motor does pivot durring hard acceleration.

Optional A/C.
In order to have air conditioning you will have to fabricate a new cross member that will have clearance. Otherwise your compressor sits in the same place as the cross member will. In addition you will have to fabricate new radius rods and make sure they sit at the same exact location, just lower. The radius rods must be adjustable and protected as it is in the turtle like housing on the stock cross member. This way if you hit a speed bump or parking block it will not alter your alignment. In addition you will have to fabricate and or weld new AC lines. On of the compressor lines connector is in an upside down position and will take special welding because it is aluminum. Not impossible and mostly not an easy feat.

VSS adapter;
This home made coversion lets you adapt your tranny vehicle speed sensor fit into your gauge cluster for proper speedometer operation.
VSS conversion. #1 & 2 was the original jdm VSS cut. Use the stock #3 cable to adapt to #2. I used a rubber hose and some zip ties to tighten and lock the two pieces #4.
__________________
1994 Honda Prelude Si H23A1

Me: Get new U-Joints, then your Ford won't suck as bad.
Him: Do I need o-rings?
Me: No you idiot.
Him: Sorry, I've never replaced an O-Joint before
Me: FAIL
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