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Old 05-29-2003, 04:48 PM   #1
CamaroSSBoy346
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Lightbulb Revell '99 Chevy Silverado 6" Suspension lift (Long step by step instructions)

This is a great idea if you want to build up a pre-runner type truck, since its only a 2WD. Basically the only parts you'll need for this truck actually come with the kit already, so there is no reason to get different parts, unless you choose to use bigger tires.

The tools needed to this is sand paper, knife, glue and cutters.

Okay, you got your Silverado painted, and it looks nice, but its too low for your liking. LIFT IT. Like i said everything you'll need to use comes with the kit. The first thing you'll actually want to do is break (YES BREAK or cut.. but its eaiser just to snap it off) the Lower A-Arms off of the Skid plate. (See Pic). After that has been cut, cut out your "lift blocks" which are attched on the "trees" the parts come on (See Pic). You'll need about 6 just for the front, so you might need to find some more or make your own. Now, cut a lift block to the degree you want your truck to be lifted. I normally cut about half of it with a slanted cut. Glue these to where the rear of the A-Arms would attach. Glue the front skid plate where it would normaly go, and glue on the upper A-Arms just like it does in the directions. After the upper A-Arms are firmly in place, cut some more lift blocks, and glue them to your upper A-Arms where the coils would normally attach. Cut the little stub off the top of the front spindles. After that use the stock coils, and cut it to about the same degree as you cut your other lift blocks. Glue the coils to the lower A-Arms. After that, put the lower A-Arm with coil in place, making sure its slanted, or on a tilt. The lift block attached to the upper A-Arm and the coil should now be glued together. Then glue on the spindles (DONT CUT OFF THE LOWER STUB AS THEY WILL STILL FIT). You will notice a gap inbetween your upper A-Arm and spindle. Gte 2 more lift blocks and cut them in half vertically. Glue the flat half the the coil/lift block, and the top of the spindles should now be glued to the new cut lift blocks. The stock tie rod should still fit. Just gently bend it next to the grooves on the tie rod, so the tie rod and spindles can be glued together.
Let the front sit, as it is very fragile.

The rear suspension is fairly easy, although it requires much guess work (will it be aligned with the fenders?) As you will notice the rear leaf springs attach to the top of the frame. Cut the part of the leaf spring where it curves, so now you have a flat leaf spring. Now glue a piece of styrene (about a centimeter long and 4 or 5 mm wide. Glue it to the lower part of the frame (opposite of where it would attach stock). The front mount of the leaf; you'll notice it has a side so the leaf cant slide sideways, cut that off (JUST THE SIDE, NOW THE WHOLE THING) Then mount a lift block (3 mm shorther then front lift blocks; due to new rear leaf mount it will add about 5 mm) Then glue the leaf on top of the block. If you want to use the stock shocks like i did, just glue a lift block where the lower part of the shock would attach to the frame. Cut lift block accordingly to make the shock fit. Let it sit for a few days, but not to long after it has been sitting, just put the wheels on it to make sure it sits even and flat.

Some aftermarket parts or custom parts i used where the Desert Dog Formula tires due to their agressive tire tread from AMT Ertl's Duke Of Hazard Daisy Duke Jeep, and a gas tank from Revell's '80 Ford Bronco.

Like I said, this takes alot of guess work, and requires alot of skill. Hopefully this clears alot of things up. Any ??'s? PM Me, I can clarify anything.
:finger:




LIFT BLOCK.


Placement of front leaf spring lift block


Placment of front lift blocks.


Where to break lower A-Arms






Attachment for rear leaf spring

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2002 F150 SuperCab FX4 6" Fabtech, 3" BL, Detroit locker, Edge tuned, Yukon 4.56s, 37" Nittos, Harley lights, Depo fogs, 8K HIDs, Powerstop brakes
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC 302 H.O, A9L ECU swap, 65mm TB, 73mm Granetelli MAF, FRPP 30lb injectors, Walbro 255, MSD ignition, Powerdyne BD11 supercharger, Efans, T-5 swap w/ FRPP flywheel, Ram HDX clutch and adjustable Steeda clutch quadrant, 4.10 gears, Nitto NT555R radials
2000 OBS Tahoe Z71 6k HIDs, 33" Goodyears. 280k mile daily beater
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Old 05-29-2003, 05:06 PM   #2
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I didnt even bother reading the tutorial, but amke sure u tel someone to put it in the FAQ, but can we see a side pick of the car right side up, i would like to see what it looks like.
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Old 05-29-2003, 06:23 PM   #3
CamaroSSBoy346
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Here
Attached Images
File Type: jpg image462.jpg (59.0 KB, 418 views)
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2002 F150 SuperCab FX4 6" Fabtech, 3" BL, Detroit locker, Edge tuned, Yukon 4.56s, 37" Nittos, Harley lights, Depo fogs, 8K HIDs, Powerstop brakes
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC 302 H.O, A9L ECU swap, 65mm TB, 73mm Granetelli MAF, FRPP 30lb injectors, Walbro 255, MSD ignition, Powerdyne BD11 supercharger, Efans, T-5 swap w/ FRPP flywheel, Ram HDX clutch and adjustable Steeda clutch quadrant, 4.10 gears, Nitto NT555R radials
2000 OBS Tahoe Z71 6k HIDs, 33" Goodyears. 280k mile daily beater
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Old 05-29-2003, 06:51 PM   #4
TheSyndicate
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Very ingenious! I might have to go buy that kit again and raise it this time, instead of lowering it my last 2 times.
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Old 05-29-2003, 07:18 PM   #5
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nice kit and the tutorial it sure looks like a 4x4
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Old 05-29-2003, 07:29 PM   #6
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very nice!! im trying to think of a way to scrath build a front solid axle conversion for my fords!!
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Old 05-29-2003, 08:49 PM   #7
themodelkid
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Like I said before, I love that model!!!! I'm gonna have to do that!
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Old 07-10-2003, 12:38 PM   #8
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This looks like it's probably a good tutorial, but the pictures have vanished. Can you upload them to AF, and link from there? Thanks.
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Old 07-10-2003, 01:13 PM   #9
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I have this model and plan on redoing it.
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Old 07-10-2003, 02:12 PM   #10
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I see red X's in the tutorial.
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Old 07-10-2003, 02:21 PM   #11
CamaroSSBoy346
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I know, i accidently deleated them from my website, so the links no long exist, making it have red x's.
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2002 F150 SuperCab FX4 6" Fabtech, 3" BL, Detroit locker, Edge tuned, Yukon 4.56s, 37" Nittos, Harley lights, Depo fogs, 8K HIDs, Powerstop brakes
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC 302 H.O, A9L ECU swap, 65mm TB, 73mm Granetelli MAF, FRPP 30lb injectors, Walbro 255, MSD ignition, Powerdyne BD11 supercharger, Efans, T-5 swap w/ FRPP flywheel, Ram HDX clutch and adjustable Steeda clutch quadrant, 4.10 gears, Nitto NT555R radials
2000 OBS Tahoe Z71 6k HIDs, 33" Goodyears. 280k mile daily beater
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Old 07-10-2003, 03:28 PM   #12
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can u turn the red x's back into pics?

i never got to see them
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Old 07-10-2003, 03:32 PM   #13
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I was looking foward to looking at the pics... but it didn't happen. Hope you fix them soon.

Thanks
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Old 07-10-2003, 04:10 PM   #14
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okay, all pics are restored
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2002 F150 SuperCab FX4 6" Fabtech, 3" BL, Detroit locker, Edge tuned, Yukon 4.56s, 37" Nittos, Harley lights, Depo fogs, 8K HIDs, Powerstop brakes
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC 302 H.O, A9L ECU swap, 65mm TB, 73mm Granetelli MAF, FRPP 30lb injectors, Walbro 255, MSD ignition, Powerdyne BD11 supercharger, Efans, T-5 swap w/ FRPP flywheel, Ram HDX clutch and adjustable Steeda clutch quadrant, 4.10 gears, Nitto NT555R radials
2000 OBS Tahoe Z71 6k HIDs, 33" Goodyears. 280k mile daily beater
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Old 07-10-2003, 06:12 PM   #15
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good tutorial

i would make it a lil more clear tho

i would make a pic of each step but u bid really good on this one
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