95 Village cranks over but no start

[mechatronic]

The Crankshaft came from Marshall Engines in NE. I've got a call from them stating that the crank is shipped that way with four ball bearings to plug up the oil passages after the receiver cleans out the protective coating. If they install the ball bearings as plugs, then they would have a chance to rust behind the ball - this is their thinking.
However, there were no ball bearings in the box the crank was shipped in, and there weren't any instructions to do this task; that's why I was confused.
Bottom line is they are shipping out the ball bearings to me to put them in. Hope they are the correct ones - stay tuned.

[tempfixit]

mechatronic,

How is your project coming along??

Question for you about broken crank. How did you determine that the crankshaft was broke?? Were you able to move the harmonic balancer when the crank was broke or did you have to remove balancer and timing cover to determine if it was broke?? The reason I am asking there is another fellow on a diferent forum that is trying to fiqure out if his crank is broke. ANy thing you can tells us would be greatly appreciated.

[mechatronic]

The drive belts has to be off of the harmonic balancer, so they need to be removed. The Harmonic balancer to Crankshaft bolt must be removed, and if the crankshaft is broken, the Harmonic balancer will fall forward into your hand.

As of the project, still putting the engine back together with the limited time. The crankshaft was finally cleaned and the ball bearing installed. The ball bearings had to be frozen in the freezer before they will go in easily. The main and rod bearings measure between 0.0015" to 0.002", the spec is 0.0011" to 0.0022".

[mechatronic]

Finally got the engine back together and into the vehicle. Now the engine just cuts out when its warming up, and runs fine after warming up to normal operating temperature.

Checked the fuel pressure at idle > 34 psi, detached vacuum hose to the fuel regulator and pressure = 44psi. Observed engine dying and the fuel pressure is at 34psi. After the engine dies, can hear the fuel pump running for another few seconds. Vacuum gage steady at 20.5 inches of vacuum.

Checked the compression after warming up the engine, all cylinders are in the range of 180 to 185 psi.
Insured that there were no dust corrosion in the distribution timing plate.

Checked the IAC-AAC valve per the manual > ok.
Checked the IAC-FICD solenoid valve > ok.
Checked the IAC valve - air regulator > ok.

Not sure what else to check.

Oil pressure light flickers at idle also.

[mechatronic]

Finally figured out the remanufactured distributor was at fault. It was one of those lifetime warranty distributor from pboys. They exchanged w/o any issues. Van is running and not stalling out. Now if the oil pressure light can be resolved, then the van can keep on trucking...