2000 Bonne SSEi very hot oil, and more

[da_lizard]

Hey, I have a 2000 Bonneville SSEi with 116,000 miles on it. The supercharged engine developed a knock, and mech. diagnosed it as a dead engine, and we replaced the engine with a used engine with 58,000 miles on it just 2000 miles ago.

Today, I tried to pass a car, an noticed that the RPMs went up higher than usual at this speed (even considering I was passing), to about 4000. Not red lined or anything, and car did not have any get up and go. I did complete the pass, but then the car turned off.

When we pulled over, I checked the oil and the oil was very hot. The dipstick was smoking when I took it out. The oil was full. Water temp was reading 200. Oil pressure was fine, however I have noticed it fluctuated more with this engine, than the first engine. There is a low rattle, but not a loud knock like before. We have cranked it, and gauges all look fine, but it will cut off after a few minutes, or if you try to drive it.

Any thoughts???? Other questions???? Is it time to junk it?????
Despite all the problems, mostly little pain in the $^($@# stuff, I have really loved this car..

Thanks,

Elizabeth

[wafrederick]

The pressure relieve valve is probally stuck.remove the oil filter adaptor and a cup with a spring wil fly out.If not,it is stuck and needs to be freed up

[maxwedge]

When the engine stalls does it start right up, if not do you have spark and fuel pressure? When checkinhg the oil on a hot engine the stick will " steam" on a cold day and yes the oil is hot, but the noise is unusual.

[da_lizard]

Hey, thanks for your replies. The mechanic said the engine was blown. My brother talked with him and he said there was no way that engine blw without having been over revved. I did not ever redline this engine (or the first one for that matter). The highest the rpms got was 4000, and that was right before it switched off, because I noticed the rpms were at 4000 (which is higher than normal), and immediately looked to see if the car was in drive, and not 2nd gear. It was, and then turned off.

When it turned off, I pulled over, and checked the il. As I mentioned, it was smoking hot, with the outside temperature about 70, so I do not think it was because the cold air hit it, it was also hot through the napkin I ran the stick through, to clean it off.

With this engine, the oil pressure always fluctuated, around 50 while moving, and 20 at idle. The original engine never did that. Could that have indicated a problem??? The engine they put in, came from a junk yard, with 58000 miles on it. Could the engine have possibly been damaged in the original wreck the car was in and not showed up for approximately 2000 miles in my car?

The mechanic now wants another $500 for a replacement engine with 22000 miles on it. His ticket said parts and labor 60 day warranty, and this was at about 40 days. He said that is what the junk yard is charging him.

However, I do not like that he basically says I am lying about over revving the engine, because I NEVER did that!! Should I just pay and be happy, because he did give us a good price originally, but I have had to pay $250 to have the car towed to him. Is the 22000 mile engine going to have issues from being in a wrecked car too?

Also, he put 20W 50 oil in the motor, when he changed it out, could that have caused a problem as the owner's manual says only use 10W 30.

Thanks,
Elizabeth

[maxwedge]

You cannot over rev this engine it is computer limited, no way. Number 2 there is no way to know the history of this engine and what was or was not done in it's previous life, always a gamble. The oil is wrong but would not cause this. No one can predict the life of a used engine or any other part, suppose the engine was in a car that rolled over and upside down running the engine was internally damaged, see what I mean?

[da_lizard]

Thanks maxwedge.

Do you or anyone have any idea why the oil was so hot? As I mentioned, it was very hot through the cloth I used to make sure there was oil. The water temperature was 200 (I think) right in the middle of the dial, and was full of coolant.

I have told the mechanic we are going to pay the $500 difference for the engine with fewer miles, but I want to try to figure out what could have gone wrong with this one, to make sure it will not happen again.

The other weird thing is both times the engine "blew" it still had oil pressure, but had metal shavings in the oil.

The last time it would crank and drive a few miles, until the engine once again got hot and then it would turn off.

Any thoughts?????

Thanks
Elizabeth

[ecartman]

Originally Posted by da_lizard

Thanks maxwedge.

Do you or anyone have any idea why the oil was so hot? As I mentioned, it was very hot through the cloth I used to make sure there was oil. The water temperature was 200 (I think) right in the middle of the dial, and was full of coolant.

I have told the mechanic we are going to pay the $500 difference for the engine with fewer miles, but I want to try to figure out what could have gone wrong with this one, to make sure it will not happen again.

The other weird thing is both times the engine "blew" it still had oil pressure, but had metal shavings in the oil.

The last time it would crank and drive a few miles, until the engine once again got hot and then it would turn off.

Any thoughts?????

Thanks
Elizabeth

Check the Catalytic Converter/Exhaust system for restrictions. A couple of years ago I came across an 01' impala with a new engine which had the same symptoms. When the car came into my shop the engine oil was so hot the dipstick handle was melting, the customer was also complaining about lack of power especially when trying to pass on the highway. Turns out the catalytic converter was clogged causing excessive exaust backpressure which more than likely damaged the old engine. After the converter was replaced, the engine ran well and the oil temp returned to normal. Good Luck!

[Carwhiz]

What is with the oil that was intalled in the used engine? 20w50??? wow, that's very heavy for a 3.8L that has not been ran or cranked for some time. I'd make him swap out oil with oil within specs of a 3.8L engine. Then diagnose the actual engine problem. From what i'm reading, you may want a new mechanic in the future sometimes the cheapest place isn't always the best place for your car that we depend on so much.

[Jrs3800]

I have been watching this thread.. Few things I want to say...

1) A used engine is just that, a used engine... You will never know what the motor has been through and there is always a possibility it will live a short life

2) In the SC cars the shifts are forced before you get to the redline

3) The largest issues the 3800 Series II has is with the lower intake gaskets... If there is any Dex being seeped into the engine even slowly over time, this can and will cause issues if its not caught..

I feel the failure had nothing to do with your driving... But when an engine like that is replaced the first thing that should happen is the update to aluminum lower intake gaskets...

And 20-50 in a 3800 is nuts

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by Jrs3800

3) The largest issues the 3800 Series II has is with the lower intake gaskets... If there is any Dex being seeped into the engine even slowly over time, this can and will cause issues if its not caught..

And 20-50 in a 3800 is nuts

I agree. The coolant contamination will destroy the camshaft, connecting rod and crankshaft bearings and play hell with the valvetrain components.

I worked on an a similar issue where the oil was very hot and you could see some steam from the cooling system coming out the dipstick tube and oil filler neck. It turned out to be bad LIM port gaskets.

The worse thing you can do is run 20W-50 oil in any L67 or L36 SII 3800 engine.