ss s/c?

[Reaper8862]

well i know this is a question im gonna catch alot of slack for but....Im looking into buying a cobalt ss s/c and i was wondering, how is this car with tuning? Is it complex enought to turn a new tuner like me away or does it take well to modifications? And as far as the whole s/c goes is it reliable? Are there any precautions i should take for this?

Im sorry it turned out to be more of a test than just a question but any feedback would be appreiated!!!

Im just tryin to do my research, before i buy.

[MZR_47]

I would highly recommend the SS/SC. Stage two for $500 from ZZP will get you 16+ psi of boost, and another ~60hp. They take to mods extremely well. With the mods I have now, I am practically even with an LS1 with Intake/Exhaust. Ive beaten Mistuishi Evos from a stop

It is a very reliable system, as the internals have been proven to handle 25psi with turbo kits easily. 450whp on stock internals has been achieved.

As far as tuning goes, it is pretty beginner friendly. I only just recently bought HPtuners, but have already messed with boost cuts, fan temps, things like that. I need a Wideband before I start messing with timing though. There is a member on here.. lightbalt is his name. He seems to have a pretty solid grasp on tuning the SS/SC, so if you decide to go with it talk to him. He can help you out im sure.

Mods are cheap, huge aftermarket, 27mph @ 300hp, looks sick... whats not to love?

[younggune21]

I am practically even with an LS1 with Intake/Exhaust. Ive beaten Mistuishi Evos from a stop


Who are you racing, i love the cobalt but an evo and anything with an ls1 are going to cook you, and an exhaust and intake is a laughing stock to be honest. Kid if you want to tune a car stay away from american 4 bangers, not worth the money for the power. Go get your self a nice v8 throw a cam in, intake manifold, and some headers and crack on slowbalts every day. I drive a cobalt so you cant say im wrong

[TorchedStealth]

If you want serious reliable power, then yes I agree with young. But if you want something that you can make quick (refering to mid-low 13's here, so not super fast) then by all means, get a ss s/c. As Mzr said, the stage 2 kit alone will put you in the high 13's if you can drive, and add full exhaust to that and drop another pulley size then you should easily see mid-13's...again assuming you can drive. I have personally seen mzr beat that evo from a stop, even though it did take him to about 90 mph to pass him, but from a roll a stock evo isnt a hard kill. The LS1 makes us work for it. We run doors until about 110 then the top end of the LS1 pulls away. I saw we because I have the same setup as Mzr, and live in the same town (we are freinds). Oh and the camaro just had intake and cat-back, not full exhaust.

And If you want even more power get some cooling mods, 60# injectors and a 2.7 or 2.8 inch pulley. Thats what I am doing. I have all the parts, just waiting until winter is over to install. Should be in the low 13's with that setup on street tires.

So overall, if you are looking to make over 300WHP reliably, then this probably isnt the car for you...not on the stock blower anyways. Buit if you are looking for a sub-300whp user friedly car...then it is a good car for you.

And you can buy them cheap with the economy being like this!

[MZR_47]

Name a V8 that can effectively get around in winter while having 300+ HP. I have never been a V8 muscle car guy. I love to look at them, but I would probably NEVER buy one myself. Ill stick to boosted 4s 5s and 6s.

We have video proof of the Evo kill, and the running doors with the LS1. Do you drive a Cobalt SS, young?

By the way, this is NOT an American engine. The thing is made by SAAB.

[jhstealth]

Name a V8 that can effectively get around in winter while having 300+ HP.

My neighbors bmw 550xi

[463]

stage II and a cold air is more than enough with a g85 and good rubber.