2000 lesbare fuel filter replacement question

[RustX7]

I've put off doing the fuel filter in the 2000 lesabre due to the lines being rusted and my not wanting to break them. The quick-connect end of the filter is fine, but the threaded nut end is rusty and wouldn't budge last time I tried cranking on it with wrenches. It was clear that the lines were going to bend before I got that nut moving so I just stopped.

Obviously I'm not going to put a torch to a fuel line, but I was wondering if there was any reason not to spray that nut with PB blaster? Will it get into the fuel or anything? I know that probably seems like a ridiculous and trivial fear to have but I wanted to ask anyway.

Honestly I don't have high hopes for it loosening even with penetrant. If I do have to cut the metal, are compression fittings the accepted way of doing this? It seems like a flared end would be better but do they sell flare connectors for fuel line? I've done it for brakes, but it's probably one of my least favorite jobs to do on a car...

[imidazol97]

[quote=RustX7;7027738] was clear that the lines were going to bend before I got that nut moving so I just stopped. Obviously I'm not going to put a torch to a fuel line, but I was wondering if there was any reason not to spray that nut with PB blaster? QUOTE]

I read that the nut corrodes to the fuel line. So try to hold that steady with you 16 mm flare wrench, and just turn the fuel filter itself to break it loose from the nut. Don't let the nut try to turn relative to the fuel line. I have treating mine with PB Blaster and now penetrating oil to work on the threads between the nut and the filter.

[RustX7]

That's a good idea, I will try spinning the filter instead. Thanks.

[imidazol97]

Originally Posted by RustX7

That's a good idea, I will try spinning the filter instead. Thanks.

First, I soaked the nut and area in vinegar by wrapping a paper towel piece around it like a plaster cast after soaking it in vinegar. Same technique as used to remove shower control module in the bathroom where the screw off cover is corroded with minerals. Then I used PB a few times. And I'm going to try penetrating oil while on trip to Michigan this weekend. A mechanic told me I might have to tap the flare wrench onto the nut breaking some rust off the outer surface.

Are you using a flare wrench?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=66323_0_0_

[RustX7]

No I don't have one of those I'm afraid. Have you successfully removed your filter yet or are these things you're still trying?

[Tech II]

Worse case scenario.....couldn't get the filter off.....removed plastic line....let fuel drain.....cut the filter in the neck just after hex fitting......grabbed the nut of the line with large vice grips, even put a pipe on the handle(you do not want that nut to move)......now with the filter cut off, you can put a socket/breaker bar on the remaining nut of the filter, and can back it off while holding the nut/fuel line stationary....

[RustX7]

In the past on brake lines I've needed to cut the line and then impact one side off. It didn't occur to me to cut the filter though... not a bad idea, but how would you do that with this filter? The nut on it is right up against it and the little bit of neck it has is thick metal, not fuel line or sheet or anything, and it's way too narrow to try a pipe cutter on. The only other way I can think is a sawzall, but that seems sketchy around fuel?

I sprayed it with PB earlier and will probably hit it again soon. Hopefully this will all be moot anyway, but I am still curious if the same flaring applies to fuel as brake lines, or if there's supposed to be an o-ring involved, or if compression fittings are really ok for fuel injection pressures...

[imidazol97]

Originally Posted by RustX7

No I don't have one of those I'm afraid. Have you successfully removed your filter yet or are these things you're still trying?

I'm waiting for warmer days now. Then if I run into trouble, I have time to get a new line. Too, I can put it up on my homemade ramps outdoors to get access easier than trying to work in the garage where the ramps won't work.

[RustX7]

Just a quick update - I was able to unhook the quick connect and spin the filter with two pairs of vise grips. No way would wrenches have worked. This was several days after a couple sprayings with PB blaster, when I got around to finally getting under the car. It was royally hard to turn but it finally cracked.

I still have the "total shutdown for a millisecond" hiccup going on, but that's a whole other thread...

Thanks again.