CV joint removal

[norteno]

mine is 97 blazer LT 4WD. I am trying to get right passenger side axle tube out so I can diagnose why my 4WD does not work. My question is; how does the CV joint disengage from the end of the axle tube? I've enclosed a picture. The brown rusty looking piece is the CV joint. The black piece is the end of the 4WD axle tube. Does it just pry out or what? any help is appreciated.

[gmtech1]

Yes, you can pry it out, sometimes a bar on either side for equal pressure work best. If there is a clear shot, you can use a long punch/drift or a prybar and a hammer to knock it out.

[norteno]

good thanks! Does everything else like the upper and lower ball joints, bottom end of shock absorber, wheel bearing, brake pads, end links and caliper all have to come too before I can get the CV joint out of the way in order to get the axle tube out for inspection? Thanks again for any help.

[gmtech1]

You can seperate the outer tie rod from the knuckle and disconnect the lower ball joint, this will allow you to swing the knuckle out of the way to remove the axle shaft. Make sure to support the lower control arm before seperating the ball joint.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by norteno

good thanks! Does everything else like the upper and lower ball joints, bottom end of shock absorber, wheel bearing, brake pads, end links and caliper all have to come too before I can get the CV joint out of the way in order to get the axle tube out for inspection? Thanks again for any help.

What is the 4W doing or not doing?

[gmtech1]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

What is the 4W doing or not doing?

Easy to overlook the obvious questions sometimes.

[norteno]

sorry for responding so late. I parked the blazer until it gets a little warmer to work on. I'm in northern Minnesota and tonight is 22 below. The problem is the 4WD button lights up but no 4WD. The actuator pulls the cable and holds vacuum (16" Hg). I replaced the vacuum switch on top of transfer case (233). There does not seem to be any vacuum leaks. I raised the passenger side wheel and pressed the 4hi button and wheel spins, it does not engage like it is supposed to. In 2hi, the front drive shaft moves around freely and when in 4hi, it does NOTspin around as was suggested it shouldn't if transfer case was working properly, it only rotates about 1/8 of a revolution either way. These are diagnostic tests I have gotten from others that seem to rule out any transfer case issues. So It was suggested that the front axle tube mechanisms are perhaps not working, worn or broken and thus not engaging 4WD. Then I read somewhere to replace it with the appropriate bravada 1 piece axle tube for better performance. So I'm stuck, figuratively and literally (when it snows). Any additional feedback is appreciated.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by norteno

sorry for responding so late. I parked the blazer until it gets a little warmer to work on. I'm in northern Minnesota and tonight is 22 below. The problem is the 4WD button lights up but no 4WD. The actuator pulls the cable and holds vacuum (16" Hg). I replaced the vacuum switch on top of transfer case (233). There does not seem to be any vacuum leaks. I raised the passenger side wheel and pressed the 4hi button and wheel spins, it does not engage like it is supposed to. In 2hi, the front drive shaft moves around freely and when in 4hi, it does NOTspin around as was suggested it shouldn't if transfer case was working properly, it only rotates about 1/8 of a revolution either way. These are diagnostic tests I have gotten from others that seem to rule out any transfer case issues. So It was suggested that the front axle tube mechanisms are perhaps not working, worn or broken and thus not engaging 4WD. Then I read somewhere to replace it with the appropriate bravada 1 piece axle tube for better performance. So I'm stuck, figuratively and literally (when it snows). Any additional feedback is appreciated.

If Transfer case and derive shaft is locking in n 4 and actuator is pulling axel lock in cable good then remove tube and have a look in there.
But first make sure Actuator cable is not unhooked or broken.

Let us know what you find.

[norteno]

i got a different actuator cable for free from junkyard because I bought bravada 1 pc axle and tube there for $30. I first took old cable out, lubed it up and did not seem to bind or be stretched. I tried both old and used cables and neither caused 4wd to engage. I took the end off the actuator and pulled with vice grips too but no action. I then took tube off (everyone was right, a PITA), and looked at the pieces. The teeth were worn down and the washer was broke. So it sits like that now. I wanna put the bravada axle tube in and think I got it pretty much figured out except the seals. Do the seals go in the diff or the end of the axle tube? Thanks again, I'm gonna get this thing going before the winter ends so I can go wheelin. (7 inches of snow today and I'm driving a minivan).

[norteno]

Thanks for the good info. I'm about ready to atempt this swap but have two more questions. The seal on the end of the axle tube just won't pry out. I want/need to replace it in case it is bad and leaking, I won't have to take the whole damn thing apart again, any tips on how to get it out? And what do I do with the electrical connector/switch on the old vacuum actuated axle tube. There is not one on the bravada axle tube I bought so what do I do with it? I understand that it sends message to TCCM to tell it what mode (or is it range?) it is in. I also understand it will not be needed any longer. THANKS AGAIN

[norteno]

I could not get the damn seal out of the axle tube. It was very tight. I could not get any leverage. I did not have access to a vice so I came up with this. I bolted the tube to a piece of 2X10 and screwed the board to the studs in my garage at about 6 ft high. I got plenty leveage then. I tried the seal removal tool but it was too flimsey and the handle bent all to hell. I found my large curved prybar and pulled down and up and sideways on the inner lip of the seal and sure enough it began to budge until it came out. Then I did the same to the bearing. I was careful to not score any surfaces. It worked for me, maybe it will for others. Thanks for listening to me and the advice. I will take more pictures as I progress

[norteno]

I got everything apart and had the usual stubborn nut/bolt but nothing broke off. I will be reassembling it today and test driving for 4X4 function. When I pulled off the axle tube, there was no gear oil in the diff. I filled it and within one hour I noticed a small pool of fluid under the driver side of diff where cv joint goes into diff. So now I have a leak. Does it make sense to assume it is the seal on that side that is bad? What do I look for to determine where leak is? Thanks again for all the help. I have some more pics I will post later. Like everyone says, I had to remove hub bearing, knuckle, spindle with upper and lower ball joints loosened ( I was able to hammer them off and did not have to use pickle fork) and unbolt lower shock bolt. All this made it easier to get around. I wired brushed and PB blasted everything the day before too., Thanks again for the advice.

[norteno]

I got everything back together and now have leak from other side seal, I think. I'm trying to check 4WD function so I tried driving in a snow covered parking lot but could not tell for sure if front tires were spinnin. I saw spin-out marks behind rear tires but not sure about the front. I had my girl look at passenger's side wheel while I gave it moderate gas but she could not tell. We'll try it again tomorrow and I'll have her look at both sides. Should both front wheels spin in 4HI, or left or right one or a random one, like the one with less traction? I jacked front right (passenger) wheel off the ground while in 4HI and car idling and in park and right wheel would not rotate. Does this confirm that it is in 4WD? When I pushed button to put it back in 2HI, the wheel still did not spin around. Is this because I now have the AWD axle in? I still plan on changing that seal, but just trying to determine if it is really in 4WD first. Thanks again for everything, This is a great site.