What can i do on my rebuild???

[2dooreighty5]

I am rebuilding a chevy 350 right now for the first time...i got it from a guy who said it had been rebuilt less than 20,000 miles ago but i tore the motor apart to take a look. The crank looks good,pistons look great, the cam looks good, besides the fact i messed up the order of the lifters so i have to do a new one...bummer...any way i had the block and heads hot tanked and they cleaned up real nice...My main question is what should i have the machine shop do, that will be too hard or not cost efficient for me to do...maybe things like regrinding the crank and putting in new cam bearings...or inspecting the pistons, i wanna do as much as possible...Should i have them rebuild the heads...i just don't know? like i said this is my first complete motor build but i have been around motors for a while and have friends who are knowledgeable too...Basically things that take very precise measuring i would think would be the part i need help on...oh yea the cylinder walls look great...cross thatched pattern...anyway any help is awesome...thanks dudes!!!

[Blue Bowtie]

Since the block was tanked it will need new cam bearings. The shop can pull in new cam bearings for you more easily unless you have the proper install drifts and puller. Watch the oil hole positions carefully.

It may be wise to inspect the rods and caps. A dye check or magnaflux test can reveal stress cracks of manufacturing defects/voids.

Just like the lifters, the rod caps and main caps need to be marked and matched to their mating pieces - Don't mix them up.

If the crank main and rod journals are correctly sized just install new bearings. You'll need to mic the journals to make sure of the size. You can also look on the backside of the old bearings for any undersize markings as a clue to whether the crank has been reground previously. If the crank has wear or damage, a reground crank kit is often a more economical way to solve the problem compared to having your crank resized by a local shop.

If the cylinders measure round and have no tapered wear you can simply break the surface glaze and install new rings to fit the bore. If the rings are file fit type you'll need to position and test fit each ring individually.

Select your replacement cam carefully. Base your selection upon what you intend to do with the vehicle, considering weather, reliability, mileage, torque, and fuel efficiency.

It would be wise to at least look over the heads to check for cracks, warpage, worn valve guides, spring and retainer condition, valve stem seal condition, and valve/seat condition. If this is going to be a moderate performance build, consider better valve springs and eliminating the exhaust valve rotators. Consider having the upper valve guides machined to accept positive valve seals, such as those used on later factory engines. If the valve guides are worn, avoid having the guides knurled to temporarily "solve" the problem and have bronze guides pressed in place.

If the heads are damaged or require a lot of work, and/or if the castings are typical of a factory smog-dog 350 it may actually be more economical to replace them than to try to get any life, performance, and efficiency out of old stock heads. You can locate the factory casting numbers between the spring pockets and either search for data on those castings or post it here to find whether they are good for anything more than keeping you boat from drifting away from your favorite fishing hole.

[2dooreighty5]

Yea the heads are the 993 or 893 i forget but i looked them up in a chevy rebuild book and they seem to be good heads...Im thinking of building this motor just to be replacement motor or extra incase my 305 goes out...and then somehwere down the road ill build a preformance motor...Tahnks for the ideas man

[2dooreighty5]

[2dooreighty5]

can anyone see my photos?

[2dooreighty5]

[silicon212]

The photos aren't coming in right because of the linking:

http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/l...nt=photo-7.jpg

just a direct link ...