brake bleeder removal

[463]

its been getting progressively worse with wheel pull to the right that makes me think that the left caliper needs to be bleed. its a 1991 caprice. i went to bleed the brakes and found both front bleeders rusted and not able to move. i did use a good shot of penetrating oil. the question. could i drive a easy out in to remove or would i be easiest to replace the caliper . here a link to what new looks like. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=313215

[Blue Bowtie]

Avoid using an extractor. Apply penetrating oil and heat. Let the screw heat and cool several times to help wick the oil into the threads and especially the tapered seat. Once it is warmed for an additional time try moving it slightly with a six-point wrench. Don't try to go very far with it, but just break it loose. Once it is moving alternately loosen and tighten it, applying oil as necessary, then either remove and replace it or remove it and apply anti-seize compound and reinstall it. If the bleeder will not move you'll either get to replace the caliper or remove it and drill out the bleeder on the workbench and re-tap the threads for a new bleeder.

That should solve the bleeding issue but may not solve the brake pulling. You might also want to make sure the calipers are both floating freely on their anchor pins and bushings, verify the pistons are not sticking, and see that the pads are intact.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by 463

its been getting progressively worse with wheel pull to the right that makes me think that the left caliper needs to be bleed. its a 1991 caprice. i went to bleed the brakes and found both front bleeders rusted and not able to move. i did use a good shot of penetrating oil. the question. could i drive a easy out in to remove or would i be easiest to replace the caliper . here a link to what new looks like. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=313215

I would not use any oils on the bleeder screw threads after this is replaced..the small amount of non compatible oils reacting with the brake fluid is harmful to the braking system componets ..

I am a person who uses anti sieze in most of my assembly of vehicle parts that have rust issues , but this is one area that is not to be used ..

since you have this pulling it is best to replace both calipers in the front in pairs ..this would be the correct way to repair your brake issues...


removal of the bleeders if siezed is to heat the bleeder until it starts to glow red slightly, with a small hand held propane torch.. then with a 6 point box wrench or socket gradually increase torque to remove ..if it binds repeat...the heat will expand the fitting, the cold wrench socket will cool shrink the fitting , as this shinks slightly you will get it to loosen ..


with the bleeder removed it would be best to remove caliper and using 10-20 psi of air with a small foot pump work the caliper and if necessary remove the piston to inspect the bore for rust ..any rust in the calipper bore it is best to replace ...but do this in pairs not just one side ..

[463]

well the bleeder was rusted to the point that it was more or less round. had the heat on and a 1/8 drill bit in it and a good set of vise grips on and still a no go. so i went the replacement route. as j cAT said in his post about the use of anti sieze i did use it on the bleed screw. in the past i have used anti sieze on the bleed screws and have had no problem with the brakes in the past. it's a point well noted thanks. did the road test an the brakes are back to normal no pull right or left on a hard stop from 75mph to 0. i may replace the right caliper along with pads and good rotors on the front as there is a slight amount of vibration (heat warp).

[j cAT]

last year I replaced the 10yr old oem original 4 rotors with Advance Auto lifetime warrantee ...so far I am very satisfied ...

the oem rotors were rusted badly and worn after 125,ooomi ..

you should replace the rotors and rear drums , this operation with rotors distorted is not good for your front end componets ..

the rear drums when worn will cause the rear shoes to wear only at the top , this results in the front brakes getting too hot and then your issues ...asbestos was used in the past for shoe material and this caused the drums to last a long time. now with the material used the softer drums wear very quickly .

[sofawala]

1. Add brake fluid to the Motive Power Brake Bleeder tank.

2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize.

3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system.

For more info visit: http://www.buybrakes.com/motive

[NOVAZ27]

HELLO. In addition to the new calipers I would change out the flexible brake line at the same time. I have had issues with the braid breaking apart internaly causing a one way valve effect. If this happens the caliper could lockup causing a really bad situation. I had this happen on an old NOVA years back. LUCKILY it was winter time and the locked up wheel skidded on the snow the few blocks to the house. The rotor/wheel/caliper runs extra hot when the hose/hoses fail. The hose can look great on the outside but be bad on the inside. Cheap insurance.

HOPE THIS HELPS.