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Old 04-09-2012, 03:49 AM   #6
enslow
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Re: Steering Rack Re and Re (1997 LeSabre)

Installation: (not many pictures. I was trying to get the job done at this point).

Preparing the new rack:
1) Don't bother to count threads as every YouTube and Haynes manual says. If the new rack has different tie-rod ends, this method will NOT work and give you a giant headache. It did to me. Instead, measure the old rack from tie-rod end to tie-rod end. Set the new tie-rod ends so that they sit the same overall distance apart, and if you can, the same ratio of threads. (example, if the old rack was 9 and 12 threads out for a total of 21 threads out, and the new one needs to be 30 threads out total to get the same distance from tie-rod end to tie-rod end, make the new one 12 and 18 threads out, respectively. This should get your alignment pretty close so you can get to the shop.) Snug the nuts against the new tie-rod ends.
2) Transfer any hardware over.
3) Wiggle the new rack into place. Begin by starting the two LHS bolts from the top. Don't torque down.

If the bolt holes don't line up well, you may have to use a ring clamp to pull the rack on the RHS down to line up the bolts. You should be able to tighten the ring clamps to position the rear nut of the rack in line so you can see the hole through the crossmember, but probably not be able to install the bolt. I had to use two u-bolts set vertically, one 1/4" bolt going through the frame crossmember near the top, and one underneath the frame crossmember. Then by tightening the u-bolt, you can pull the rack down so the nut hole lines up with the frame crossmember. You may have to tap the rack from above or the side to position the nut.

Be sure to avoid tapping lines, or putting the clamps on the hydraulic lines.

This part took me an entire day. Knowing the trick with the u-bolts to squeeze the rack into place, I would probably be able to get it in much quicker. Once the nut hole is in position, tighten the ring clamps further so the rack doesn't shift as your remove the u-bolts. Remove the u-bolts so you can install the proper bolt through the crossmember. First thread the bolt backwards through the nut so you know it will thread smoothly. If it doesn't thread easily, exercise the bolt so that it works smoothly, then install the bolt properly from the frame crossmember. You may have to loosen or remove the other bolts along the way to get this to work. In the end, you should be able to get all 5 bolts in place.

4) Snug each bolt down, but do not torque yet. Remove each bolt (one at a time!) and add ring of locktite around the bolt. Reinstall and torque to spec (50 ft-lbs). A trick may be to apply the locktite without actually removing the bolts, but this may be tricky. Whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE the bolt that goes through the crossmember. Just back it out so you can apply some locktite to the inner threads of the nut, then torque down to spec.
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