Quote:
Originally Posted by enslow
Ah, a balmy 17 degrees. It's like -3 here. You can tough it out!
Oh wait, you're American.... 17 F  We're like 30 F up here. |
It's hard to believe it's warmer in Canada than it is in Texas. But actually, we're back up in the 50's today, so we're thawing out a bit.
I attached my fix to the disconnected tube. I don't know if the little rubber hose I used to connect the plastic tube to the canister purge control valve is good enough. Like maybe some of the gas is leaking out, because I didn't push the little rubber hose over the ridge on the plastic tube. The rubber hose wouldn't even fit onto the plastic tube at first, so I had to stretch it out to get it onto the plastic tube. I doubt it would fit over the ridge. And plus, that plastic tube is loose at the other end where it connects up to the vacuum "T", so I didn't want to put too much force on it by trying to really jam the little rubber hose on there. It seemed like the plastic tube could very easily break loose from the vacuum T if I wasn't careful.
After applying my fix, I started the car, it ran great for about 20 seconds, and then the engine was choppy again. I don't know why it sounds good for the first 20 seconds - the idle is smooth and even just as it should be. Then after about 20 seconds, it gets a little choppy, with it sounding like it's misfiring every few seconds.
Do you think it could be the little rubber hose I used to fix the broken connection? I was thinking of disconnecting the electrical connector that runs to the canister purge control valve, just to see if the engine still has a choppy idle with it disconnected. I know that's not a permanent solution, but I was thinking that would let me know if it really does have something to do with the canister purge control valve and the rubber tube to plastic tube connection.