This is a 1998 Chevy Metro 1.0L 5 speed
Here is my transmission and clutch removal guide for you to enjoy. Make sure you are working on a clean, concrete surface since you will be lying directly on your back with no room for a creeper unless you are an anorexic. First thing you need to do is jack up the driver side front until the tire is at least 4" off the ground and place a jack-stand securely under the frame. Give it a good shakin' (without denting the body -lol-) to make sure the car is safe because you will be directly under the car and nobody wants to die unless you think you can bench-press a Metro.
Start off under the hood and..........
Remove battery (2 10MM nuts)
Remove battery tray (3 14MM bolts)
Remove the speedometer cable (remove clip and pull)
Remove clutch cable (14MM nut)
Remove clutch cable bracket (2 12MM bolts)
Unplug reverse light connector (duh)
Remove ground cable and clean it (14MM bolt)
Reference pic below..................
Now you are done under the hood for now. Next thing is to get to the axle shaft removal.
Drain the transmission (3/8 ratchet)
Remove the LF tire (4 19MM)
Remove the brake caliper and pads (12 MM)
Remove the axle nut with a impact wrench (1 1/4 nut)
Push in axle shaft to see if it's free
Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt (14 MM bolt)
Use a chisel to spread the pinch area and pound down on the control area to separate.
Pull the complete knuckle outwards and push axle through until free
Use a prybar and pop out the axle shaft and set aside
Now it is time to get under the car and here is where all the fun starts. First thing is to place a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to support the engine. If you are lucky enough to have an engine sling, then use it. Jack the engine/trans assembly up slightly to take tension off the mounts.
Directly behind the trans under the car, you will find the shift rod linkage and the brace. These may look like ordinary bolts and nuts, but I found out removing these were actually the hardest part of the entire job! These are actually pins going through a bushing and if they are seized up, use lots of penetrating oil and strike the housing part (eye) many times with a hammer to break up the rust. The shift rod link a double joint (not the kind you roll) and you can take it off from either location. Heat is not recommended and don't even try whacking the threaded side with a hammer unless you have a nut on it flush.
After getting this far, it's time for a short break to collect your senses and thoughts so you don't screw up.
Ok, so lets get this transmission out now. Remember all that fun you had removing the shift rod? Get back under there and directly above it, you will see the rear mount from the firewall to the trans.
Remove the 2 lower nuts from mount (2 14MM)
Remove the bushing bolt and nut and remove that bracket piece (14 MM)
Remove the trans mount bolts and remove from trans (3 14MM)
Use the floor jack holding engine to help you.
While there, remove the one bell housing nut below starter (14 MM nut)
Get out of there and remove the rear brace where battery was (3 14MM bolts)
Before removing the rest, look on the steel coolant tube and remove the bolt going to the trans case. It's easy to miss this and you don't want to break that tube.
Under car remove bell housing flywheel plate (2 10 MM bolts)
Top of car, remove the starter (2 12 MM bolts)
Make sure you removed bell housing nut under starter on earlier step (14 MM)
Remove 3 remaining bell housing bolts (3 14 MM)
Lean over car and grab trans (like you love it) and begin carefully wiggling the trans loose from the engine and use a pry-bar to help pry away from block. Stop part way out and go back under the car and pop the other (right) axle shaft. Finish yanking and carefully set it on the ground or get help from someone if you are not as buff as me
Now remember in step #1 I mentioned jacking the car so the tire is at least 4" off the ground? If you didn't, the trans won't clear and you will have the engine on a piece of wood and be attempting to raise the car. Good luck with that.
Now it is time for the clutch. This is gravy work now. Hopefully you got all the proper parts and supplies like a brand new -=Sachs=- Clutch kit and 3 quarts of Synchromesh trans oil from Pennzoil, GM, or Castrol. The shop I work at only uses the best products and that is what I used.
Replace throwout bearing on trans side
Remove the old clutch (6 12 MM bolts)
Replace the pilot bearing from flywheel (I made a tool)
If you want to resurface, then remove the flywheel instead. I simply used a medium grit Roloc and carefully scuffed mine. These engines have like 55 HP so I am 100% sure this was sufficient.
Use the alignment tool provided with the kit and verify which way the clutch faces. Install the clutch and pressure plate and use threadlocker on the clutch bolts. Draw them down evenly and get them tight. Use torque specs if you want from a manual. As you are tightening, wiggle the guide tool and make sure clutch is centered.
This is what I have accomplished so far. My junkyard replacement trans is at the shop awaiting new axle shaft seals because I don't want any leaks at all. It is also going to get a bath in the parts washer and maybe even paint if I feel like throwing some "Kentucky Chrome" on it. I will post some installation pics possibly tomorrow or the weekend and let you all know how it goes.
There is so much more fun stuff to do to this car.