Quote:
Originally Posted by LamboGT
Guys, I would like to start on this area, 3d modeling and 3d printing. Can you give tips about how Can I proceed to start? Some class, the software...
Thanks in advance
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Sorry for the late reply. I do not check the forum too often.
What will you need is a printer, or an access to a printer. In addition, there are a lot of thingiverse members who would be willing to print for you, not for free of course.
There are two main categories of 3D printers in the hobby world: FDM and SLA. The first apply lines of molten plastic to create the shape while the second harden layers of resin using UV light. SLA printers uses LCD screens (similar to what is in your phone) to project the layers, and therefore, they are very precise. Their accuracy is comparable to the resolution of their screens. This is the type that I would recommend to create car parts. Check my page on cults3d page to have an idea of what an SLA printer is capable of. Anycubic and Phrosen are among the most popular printers in the hobby world.
But how can a printer print a model car without the model itself? You will need a digital representation of the object you want to print. You have either to download, buy or create yourself. For the last option you will need a CAD program. There are a plenty of them to choose from. Autodesk used to offer Fusion 360 freely for hobbyists and students. I do not know if this offer is still valid since they canceled my subscription a couple of years ago.
Once the geometry is prepared, it has to be exported in STL format. Any CAD software should be able to export the geometry in STL format. You do not have to worry or understand what an STL file is since it is black box step for users. A another program is needed to convert this STL geometry to instructions a printer should apply. This software is called slicer, and is mostly free. There are many slicers to choose from. Logically, I would use the slicer recommended by the printers's manufacturer.
After some ups and downs you will have your model printed. This must be cleaned (I am talking about SLA printing). This is a crucial step affecting the final result of the printing. You will need considerable amount of IPA alcohol for that purpose. There are water washable resins that will spare the hassle of using the nasty IPA. But do not dispose the used water in the sink. Water washable does not mean harmless. A wash and cure machine is highly recommended for larger parts. Small parts can be washed by hand or by an airbrush.
But what is cure? Resin parts come out of the printer half cured. They can be left longer in the printer to fully hardened of course, but then they become brittle. Hense, they should continue curing after separation from their supports. A wash and cure station (in the curing mode) is a rotating lazy Susan with some UV light. Be aware, though, that some parts wrap at this stage. In many cases curing can be skipped.
Now you have your printed, cleaned, and depending on the case, cured model. It will be full of layer lines. Thy are tiny and faint, but still visible. For that filler primer and wet sanding are your best friends.
Simple, isn't it?