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Originally Posted by warren222000
I am having the same problem with my '88 Clubwagon. When I switch to the rear tank, the gauge reads full, but it still sucks gas from the front tank. I have the rear tank off right now, and was about to replace the fuel pump, but when I tested the wires going into the sending unit, only one pair of wires was getting electricity. This leads me to believe the sending unit is getting juice, and registering fuel level on the gauge, but the pump is not. Would it be dangerous to connect 12V to the pump to test it? Or how could I test the switch?
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you can test any switch with a continuity test thru it if you have an ohm meter,with the power to the switch off, the meter in the "R" or ohm mode,first test the meter by touching the lead ends together,the needle should register all the way over the scale,now we know yor meter is working,then place one tip(lead end)to bare wire terminal connection on one side of switch and other tip (doesnt matter which tip where)to other terminal connection,now when switch is in off position if switch is good you get no reading or movement of needle.....put switch in on position (this is circuit complete)you should get full swing of needle as you did when touching tip to tip.......further in both switch positions with tips on terminals jiggle switch button(toggle) to see if needle reading holds stable, you should get no intermittant bouncing of needle in either position......switch is good if it you see what I have described........otherwise.....not good. The real questions here: are you getting power to the valve that is supposed to move to redirect flow from one tank to other and if you have power at valve is it actually changing position to allow tank switchover??you can check pump activity by listening down filler tube with a short piece of hose for the winning noise you will hear when pump is running....when the tank switch is thrown.